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Old 06-20-2004, 09:58 AM   #12751
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Default Re: Re: Re: Short track setups

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Originally posted by kreidel
I ran this setup and still was looking for alittle more steering, on and off power. The car never rotated on the sharp turns, it felt real planted. I reduced the rear toe 1/2 degree and still not much better. I then went to white springs up front without much luck. I ran my first qualifier with it but then switched back to my Mugen. Any input on gaining steering?
hey kevin try the stock set up i ran mine like tht at speedlinehobbies a few months ago and it ran very well, Speedline is a very small technical track set up for electric.
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Old 06-20-2004, 11:36 AM   #12752
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Thanks Marcos with the reply. I actaully tried it first off a few weeks back. I had a hard time finding the steering that I wanted. I have tried tweaking that box setup but never found what i was looking for. I tried a couple setups since then with no luck. This one IntialD and Profi use is much closer to what I want but still need more steering. The rear traction is great even with the 40 rears and 37 front. I also started to stiffen the rear sway bar and although it was starting to make the rear alittle loser I found it was not helping out with more steering.
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Old 06-20-2004, 01:53 PM   #12753
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Quote:
Originally posted by kreidel
Thanks Marcos with the reply. I actaully tried it first off a few weeks back. I had a hard time finding the steering that I wanted. I have tried tweaking that box setup but never found what i was looking for. I tried a couple setups since then with no luck. This one IntialD and Profi use is much closer to what I want but still need more steering. The rear traction is great even with the 40 rears and 37 front. I also started to stiffen the rear sway bar and although it was starting to make the rear alittle loser I found it was not helping out with more steering.
by the way "Happy Fathers day"
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Old 06-20-2004, 02:52 PM   #12754
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Default Re: Re: Re: Short track setups

Quote:
Originally posted by kreidel
I ran this setup and still was looking for alittle more steering, on and off power. The car never rotated on the sharp turns, it felt real planted. I reduced the rear toe 1/2 degree and still not much better. I then went to white springs up front without much luck. I ran my first qualifier with it but then switched back to my Mugen. Any input on gaining steering?
First, move the ball cup on the steering arm from the top to the bottom, which gives a little more throw when running less caster.
I would also try standing the front shocks up more and running even less rear toe (at one point I was running zero!).

You can also change the rear upper roll centers to yield less camber gain, like UTI or UTO. But I would change this last.

At least you are looking for more steering going in AND coming out, that usually makes things easier than just looking for it in one particular area.

Interestingly enough, I got quicker this last weekend just switching back to the dish wheel. I had been running the white spokes when the dishes were in low supply, and I could always tell that the spoked wheels were flexing too much. I could especially see this last week, when I was switching back and forth between dishes and spokes in the qualifiers.
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Old 06-20-2004, 06:24 PM   #12755
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HAPPY FATHERS DAY TO ALL THE DADS OUT THERE
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Old 06-20-2004, 06:53 PM   #12756
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Just finished a race yesterday with a dissapointing result...here's the problem i found with the car...nothing major but bad enough to screw up my heats...

My front belt dislodged on 2 heats... even though i was running with a brand new belt with the tension set to the tightest (Front Diff). On my last heat i had to switch back to solid axle just to qualify. Can Serpent come out with a flange/collar to stop this from happening?... or are the belts simply to slim?





Overall the car handled beautifully...

Last edited by crashed_1; 06-20-2004 at 08:20 PM.
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Old 06-20-2004, 08:54 PM   #12757
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I am getting understeer off power exiting corners. Besides changing tire shores how can I correct this?
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Old 06-20-2004, 09:08 PM   #12758
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To Isolate or not is the question?

I am at the stage of putting the servos in my car, and would like to know if I should isolate the servos from mechanical vibration? In the past (15 years) when I raced Hydroplanes we used the rubber isolators that were supplied with the servos. When I changed to Electric 12th and 10th pan cars we mounted the servos solid with no isolators. Now 10 years later with gas cars what is the correct thing to do? I am using Futaba S9350 for steering & S9405 for the throttle. When I try to use the rubber mounts that came with the servos, the hardware supplied is not long enough and the holes in the steering mount are to large the support the brass inserts. I have a picture of Rene Cornella’s 710 I took at the Winternats and it looks like he does not use any servo isolation ( I think).

I tried to post a picture but the file size was two large.
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Old 06-20-2004, 09:09 PM   #12759
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Default Re: Re: Re: Short track setups

Quote:
Originally posted by kreidel
I ran this setup and still was looking for alittle more steering, on and off power. The car never rotated on the sharp turns, it felt real planted. I reduced the rear toe 1/2 degree and still not much better. I then went to white springs up front without much luck. I ran my first qualifier with it but then switched back to my Mugen. Any input on gaining steering?
Try the following (one by one),

Put 4mm caster shim up front
Stand up more front shock than rear, ex: rear on 2nd hole, front on 4th hole
Use 1 step lower front shock oil with 1 step lower spring
Use wider rear track width than front, if rear loose grip, try UBO/LT
Lock 100% rear diff
Remove front stabilizer

In other words, if the rear already planted is a good thing. What you need is to make the front having more traction. In case the car flip.. then you know you are already having the maximum grip out of the car itself.
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Old 06-20-2004, 09:15 PM   #12760
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Quote:
Originally posted by crashed_1
My front belt dislodged on 2 heats... even though i was running with a brand new belt with the tension set to the tightest (Front Diff).
hmmmm.. this is new, even when I`m running with old belt (loose) it still never get out from the pulley.
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Old 06-20-2004, 09:20 PM   #12761
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Default Re: To Isolate or not is the question?

Quote:
Originally posted by wolfejohne
I am at the stage of putting the servos in my car, and would like to know if I should isolate the servos from mechanical vibration? In the past (15 years) when I raced Hydroplanes we used the rubber isolators that were supplied with the servos. When I changed to Electric 12th and 10th pan cars we mounted the servos solid with no isolators. Now 10 years later with gas cars what is the correct thing to do? I am using Futaba S9350 for steering & S9405 for the throttle. When I try to use the rubber mounts that came with the servos, the hardware supplied is not long enough and the holes in the steering mount are to large the support the brass inserts. I have a picture of Rene Cornella’s 710 I took at the Winternats and it looks like he does not use any servo isolation ( I think).

I tried to post a picture but the file size was two large.
I prefer using the rubber grommets... vibration is big on a gas car
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Old 06-20-2004, 09:24 PM   #12762
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
I am getting understeer off power exiting corners. Besides changing tire shores how can I correct this?
If it has to do with cornering speed/your preferred race line... maybe you could try `drag brake`. S710 drive train is the most free compared to others which make us to slow down the car far from the corner. With strong enough drag brake.. it gets more and more perfect performance.
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Old 06-20-2004, 09:27 PM   #12763
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Default Re: To Isolate or not is the question?

Quote:
Originally posted by wolfejohne
I am at the stage of putting the servos in my car, and would like to know if I should isolate the servos from mechanical vibration? In the past (15 years) when I raced Hydroplanes we used the rubber isolators that were supplied with the servos. When I changed to Electric 12th and 10th pan cars we mounted the servos solid with no isolators. Now 10 years later with gas cars what is the correct thing to do? I am using Futaba S9350 for steering & S9405 for the throttle. When I try to use the rubber mounts that came with the servos, the hardware supplied is not long enough and the holes in the steering mount are to large the support the brass inserts. I have a picture of Rene Cornella’s 710 I took at the Winternats and it looks like he does not use any servo isolation ( I think).

I tried to post a picture but the file size was two large.
I used to use the rubber mounts myself but I was told not to use it because the servo tends to have more play. I took mine off so its secured really tight with no movement at all.
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Old 06-20-2004, 09:30 PM   #12764
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
If it has to do with cornering speed/your preferred race line... maybe you could try `drag brake`. S710 drive train is the most free compared to others which make us to slow down the car far from the corner. With strong enough drag brake.. it gets more and more perfect performance.
BEsides drag brake what other options can I play with? To solve the problem am I suppose to have more traction in the rear, if so then that would take some of my steering away correct? I dont want to lose more steering.
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Old 06-20-2004, 09:44 PM   #12765
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: ATTENTION: TRACTION ROLL...Help!Help!

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Originally posted by mariochi
Mr.D.... Do you think that 200 mm. front trkwidth is too dangerous for losing front dogbones?
If you're using oneway or the solid front axle, you should not worry about using the 200 mm front trackwidth.
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