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Old 06-12-2004, 04:14 PM   #12451
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Quote:
Originally posted by Marcos.S710
hey kevin try the fw-05r (Just kidding guys!!! )
Aha! We DO know that you've improved by 1 lap at your local track since changing over to the FW05 *but* I think this is not due to the car .... so yeah, Marcos WAS kidding!
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Old 06-12-2004, 04:28 PM   #12452
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Originally posted by kreidel
I too had the same problem last night in practice. I guess I will also order the 3Racing universals since I have no interest in searching the track for dogbones. I never hit anything, it was a 180degree turn and it popped. I cannot understand why Serpent would not aleast give you the option to run universals to save some people this headache. I understand some people do not have this problem but from what I have read some do. Should I run my front track width at 195mm?
I'm beginning to wonder that either I'm lucky and got longer dogbones or there is something in the way others are assembling their cars. I have never lost my dogbones except once and THAT was because I was making a 180 degree turn and then cliped the "wall" that was marking the corner (its an indoor track and the whole track consist of 2 inch plywood walls on both sides).

Putting silicone tubing inside the outdrives of the one-way does not work that well if you put the wrong ones because they actually get pushed inside of the hole in the one-way outdrive. So ensure that if you do use silicone tubing that they are large enough in diameter.

I use the pro springsteel outdrives on the steering blocks as well as the rear uprights. For the front, you must NOT put any silicone tubing or anything at all because this makes matters worse. You need to have the dogbones go in as deep as possible to allow max steering, the same goes for the rear uprights. In the rear I use silicone tubing in the diff outdrives.

Both my front and rear trackwidths are 199 mm.

I totally agree with you that Serpent should either get Hudy to make slightly longer springsteel dogbones or make CVDs/universals. That would be very good indeed.

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Old 06-12-2004, 04:45 PM   #12453
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I run 198 on the front and 200 on the rear and the bones don't fallout. You need to verify that they are falling out and not breaking. some people have had issues with broken bones then they fallout. try the impact 835 spring steel axles up front. also check to see if the servo saver is weak. you may need to shim the spring to make it tighter. If the servo saver lets the uprights cock on impact the bones will fallout, break or in the case of the MTX3 with universals break regardless of who makes them.
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Old 06-12-2004, 05:19 PM   #12454
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Originally posted by Motorman
I run 198 on the front and 200 on the rear and the bones don't fallout.


Glad to hear that ... was also beginning to wonder maybe its ME that had something wrong!

Quote:
You need to verify that they are falling out and not breaking. some people have had issues with broken bones then they fallout. try the impact 835 spring steel axles up front. also check to see if the servo saver is weak. you may need to shim the spring to make it tighter. If the servo saver lets the uprights cock on impact the bones will fallout, break or in the case of the MTX3 with universals break regardless of who makes them.
Good point about the servo saver ...
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Old 06-12-2004, 05:25 PM   #12455
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
I run 198 on the front and 200 on the rear and the bones don't fallout. You need to verify that they are falling out and not breaking. some people have had issues with broken bones then they fallout. try the impact 835 spring steel axles up front. also check to see if the servo saver is weak. you may need to shim the spring to make it tighter. If the servo saver lets the uprights cock on impact the bones will fallout, break or in the case of the MTX3 with universals break regardless of who makes them.
Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
I'm beginning to wonder that either I'm lucky and got longer dogbones or there is something in the way others are assembling their cars. I have never lost my dogbones except once and THAT was because I was making a 180 degree turn and then cliped the "wall" that was marking the corner (its an indoor track and the whole track consist of 2 inch plywood walls on both sides).

Putting silicone tubing inside the outdrives of the one-way does not work that well if you put the wrong ones because they actually get pushed inside of the hole in the one-way outdrive. So ensure that if you do use silicone tubing that they are large enough in diameter.

I use the pro springsteel outdrives on the steering blocks as well as the rear uprights. For the front, you must NOT put any silicone tubing or anything at all because this makes matters worse. You need to have the dogbones go in as deep as possible to allow max steering, the same goes for the rear uprights. In the rear I use silicone tubing in the diff outdrives.

Both my front and rear trackwidths are 199 mm.

I totally agree with you that Serpent should either get Hudy to make slightly longer springsteel dogbones or make CVDs/universals. That would be very good indeed.

The car is practically brand new and I just checked again to see if anything was broken or bent up front and it was fine. My car setup is the default one the send with the kit so it is not some exotic setup that might be the issue. My MTX3 cannot use dogbones either, I had to purchase the universals, so maybe it is just my style of driving. I repeat that when the bones came out I made contact with absoutley nothing.
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Old 06-12-2004, 05:28 PM   #12456
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Quote:
Originally posted by kreidel
The car is practically brand new and I just checked again to see if anything was broken or bent up front and it was fine. My car setup is the default one the send with the kit so it is not some exotic setup that might be the issue. My MTX3 cannot use dogbones either, I had to purchase the universals, so maybe it is just my style of driving. I repeat that when the bones came out I made contact with absoutley nothing.
Maybe you're right then ... style of driving.
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Old 06-12-2004, 05:39 PM   #12457
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Quote:
Originally posted by Slippery
Hi B4
Which track in oz do you run at? I have found that my car didn't respond very well with the default roll centre settings ,car would just push threw all corners , i have made the front arms angle more by removing the spacers and also shortened rear arm (moved top arm from inner hole to outer hole) It all comes down to trying different things
cheers mick
I run at Sugar Valley. We moved from a small carpark that was very bumpy to a track that is flat and more flowing down the road at Edgeworth. Good point about the roll centres as i haven't tried that yet.
What track do you run at.
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Old 06-12-2004, 06:45 PM   #12458
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Quote:
My MTX3 cannot use dogbones either
That is a true statment on the MTX. I think if you narrow the front to 198 most of your issue will go away and the car will gain steering. Old Impact trick. A couple MM of width change on the front end has a dramatic effect on the steering this is where I go if the car is balanced and feels good around the track but just needs more steering as it effects the whole corner evenly. You can also lay the shocks down a hole or two up front.

B$ yes move the rear roll center up at the bottom and up and in on the upper. this will take bite off the rear of the car and allow it to rotate.
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Old 06-12-2004, 06:49 PM   #12459
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...also waiting for your TheGiant.com signature no more tq huh
Hmm... I'm just waiting for the best offer to put Daltonshop link on my signature...
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Old 06-12-2004, 07:00 PM   #12460
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
That is a true statment on the MTX. I think if you narrow the front to 198 most of your issue will go away and the car will gain steering. Old Impact trick. A couple MM of width change on the front end has a dramatic effect on the steering this is where I go if the car is balanced and feels good around the track but just needs more steering as it effects the whole corner evenly. You can also lay the shocks down a hole or two up front.

B$ yes move the rear roll center up at the bottom and up and in on the upper. this will take bite off the rear of the car and allow it to rotate.
I run 199 front and 198 rear so if I change to 198 front what should I set the rear to or just leave it at 198 ?
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Old 06-12-2004, 07:42 PM   #12461
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Glad to hear that ... was also beginning to wonder maybe its ME that had something wrong!

Good point about the servo saver ... [/B]
I run 200mm rear and 198mm front also. Narrower front end is the best set up tool available.
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Old 06-12-2004, 09:21 PM   #12462
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set the rear 200
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Old 06-12-2004, 09:49 PM   #12463
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I had a problem with that too. I found a crack in one of the front uprights. It took me about two races to catch it...I also run 198 in front and 200 rear.
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Old 06-12-2004, 11:38 PM   #12464
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Guys, on the front trackwidth issue, if you run the front ball diff, you need to narrow down the trackwidth. Else, the dogbones will come out without even hitting anything especially when you make a sharp turn.

kriedel, I assume you're using front solid? With that, I think at 196 mm, the dogbones will bind the front suspension. Just found that at 197 mm front trackwidth, the front suspension binds with oneway diff front and stock dogbones. Changed my front diff and put the oneway. I had to turn 1 FULL turn OUT on the front pivot balls so that the suspension is free. And incidently, I checked and the front trackwidth after the change and it was spot on 200 mm with that change.

Tried the car with just changing the front ball diff to oneway and changing the trackwidth from 197 mm to 200 mm to be EXCELLENT ! The rear was fixed at 198 mm still. 42 shore front and 45 shore rear with 40wt Serpent shock oil and 4x1.2 holes.

My end point travel on my 710 steering never exceeds to the max. Mostly at 50% to 60% on the dual rate with the left / right travel set to max 120% on the 3PK.

If you need to max out your steering end point just to get enough steering for your 180 degree apex turns, then there is something wrong with the car setup. That's what me thinks...
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Old 06-12-2004, 11:48 PM   #12465
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Quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
No, I'm just talking about the pin holes for making the one-way a straight axle. I took the old-style outdrives, cut the shafts shorter, and drilled holes through the shaft...nothing to do with the dogbones.
Cool. Understood.

Woow, I would imagine the hassle to go and drill the hole in the outdrives. Drilling with normal tools on curved surfaces is PAINFULL. If you have a friend or know someone with an EDM machine, the process will only take a couple of minutes. You get a very clean hole too.
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