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Old 06-08-2004, 11:34 AM   #12271
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Originally posted by markp27
Sow, that was a Mugen modified version - I didn't like to put my name on it as I simply discovered the modification, I didn't implement it
Aha! so MP-Meister is choosy as to when he puts his autograph on eh?
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Old 06-08-2004, 11:34 AM   #12272
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Default Re: Re: Re: Big shiny hot thing in the sky!!!

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Originally posted by GlennCauley
And Calgary LOST
Yeah, I couldn't believe. TWO goals by Ruslan who was half-blinded by a puck in the 1st period!
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Old 06-08-2004, 11:39 AM   #12273
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Originally posted by FW05R
do any of you guys have a Rody Roem RB Engine how does it compare to the other moded engines like JP, MF max in terms of bottom end top speed
I have used a Rody X12 (not the new V12) and the previous JP. My Mx will be in the next 710 so can't compare.

From my no-so-stellar tuning skills, I think the JP was a better in the whole range of powerband. The Rody is only slightly lacking in the top end but I found the answer to that ... the Outlaw Shark pipe (not the in-line version).

Also, the JP really takes off as it gets hotter (125C) but the Rody does not like to go above 110C.
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Old 06-08-2004, 01:52 PM   #12274
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Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Also, the JP really takes off as it gets hotter (125C) but the Rody does not like to go above 110C.
Really! Man I'm only touching 100C and this thing is like a bat out of hell - glad I got those comp brake pads and vented disc to stop the car.
I was at the track tonight again and I couldn't believe how well the car took off when I hit the throttle. I've leaned down the LSN now, so the pick up is a lot better - just a little bit more work on the HSN and I'll be hitting the 115C runs
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Old 06-08-2004, 03:10 PM   #12275
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Im hesitant on purchasing a JP FX because most people say they dont last long due to them being race bred engines basically you would only slap the JP on your car for a big race and then take it off and put a less expensive engine to practice with. Im looking for an engine with good power both bottom end and top end that will last me a while

im willing to spend in the price range between $300-$400 for a good engine
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Old 06-08-2004, 04:21 PM   #12276
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Quote:
Originally posted by FW05R
Im hesitant on purchasing a JP FX because most people say they dont last long due to them being race bred engines basically you would only slap the JP on your car for a big race and then take it off and put a less expensive engine to practice with. Im looking for an engine with good power both bottom end and top end that will last me a while

im willing to spend in the price range between $300-$400 for a good engine
I just bought one of these http://www.lcollari-innotech.com/english/12/due10.htm I paid 230.00 for this monster and I 'm about to go run it in on the RIB.
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Old 06-08-2004, 05:56 PM   #12277
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Quote:
Im hesitant on purchasing a JP FX because most people say they dont last long due to them being race bred engines basically you would only slap the JP on your car for a big race and then take it off and put a less expensive engine to practice with. Im looking for an engine with good power both bottom end and top end that will last me a while
well i totally i agree with on this! jp are are good but you only use it for big races and the cost of maitaining one is also to much... have you seen the MS 3port MCPits pretty decent and fast i have a 5prt and im blowing my friends rody mod 5prt... and the parts are cheap and easy to get... the mugen x12 is also pretty good... for its really the matter of having parts for the motor and then the power... i don wanna stop racing bec i dont have parts for it... good luck!!
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Old 06-08-2004, 06:11 PM   #12278
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Default Shock tool

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Somehow, that question of mine was like a trap. Sorry to make it sound like that but I was quite sure that you held the shock shaft the way you did... With the sharp wire cutter portion on the end of the needle thread.

Do away with that method. I've tried that and it simple makes a notch at the end of the thread and gives reason for the shaft to be weak at that spot.

Like what modellor (oophs Palmaris Europe ) does, I use a paper towel and grip the shock shaft with normal pliers. Works for me. And you will not break shock shafts.
I made a shock tool using a brass nut. I epoxied the brass nut to a pair of pliers. I then drilled a 1/8 hole through the nut. Finally I then cut the nut in half using a dremel. This will not scar the shock shaft at all.
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Old 06-08-2004, 06:24 PM   #12279
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Quote:
Originally posted by rwisejr
I just bought one of these http://www.lcollari-innotech.com/english/12/due10.htm I paid 230.00 for this monster and I 'm about to go run it in on the RIB.
Do my glasses need cleaning or does it say 2.40 HP from a .12?

If that is correct, Novarossi must be doing something wrong!
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Old 06-08-2004, 06:29 PM   #12280
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Far from wrong. They couldnt give Collari .12 engines away free here they were so poor . Standard 3-port RB X12 (non-turbo) was blowing them away.

More like 1.4hp of unusable power
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Old 06-08-2004, 08:02 PM   #12281
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Quote:
Originally posted by FW05R
Im hesitant on purchasing a JP FX because most people say they dont last long due to them being race bred engines basically you would only slap the JP on your car for a big race and then take it off and put a less expensive engine to practice with. Im looking for an engine with good power both bottom end and top end that will last me a while

im willing to spend in the price range between $300-$400 for a good engine
Correct me if I`m wrong, JP is the only one who cares about hardening its engine material (Black Case, etc) that logically will be more durable. They will last longer..
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Old 06-08-2004, 08:45 PM   #12282
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Quote:
Originally posted by FW05R
Im hesitant on purchasing a JP FX because most people say they dont last long due to them being race bred engines basically you would only slap the JP on your car for a big race and then take it off and put a less expensive engine to practice with.
If you're serious in racing, then having two engines is good. But what I'm puzzled is why do you think race bred engines don't last long? Are you expecting them to perform well above others and at the same time last a lifetime? Common.... My 1 year old NovaMax has gone through more than 20 gallons of fuel and I've just changed the piston / sleeve. In fact, I just had the original sleeve pinched and I'll try putting it back in and do a short break in. You just need to take care not to overheat it a lot and change the conrod periodically and you should be fine.
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Old 06-08-2004, 08:48 PM   #12283
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
Correct me if I`m wrong, JP is the only one who cares about hardening its engine material (Black Case, etc) that logically will be more durable. They will last longer..
I don't know if you ever need to do that on the crankcase... Marketing gimmick? Perhaps. But has anybody seen a crankcase breaking because of the high performance of the engine? I'm not referring to crankcase breaking due to impact.

But I do agree that coatings on the crankshaft and crank pin is definitely a plus. KHM does that also I believe.
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Old 06-08-2004, 08:52 PM   #12284
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Quote:
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
Far from wrong. They couldnt give Collari .12 engines away free here they were so poor . Standard 3-port RB X12 (non-turbo) was blowing them away.
Are you referring to the older Collari engine based on the Picco engine or the newer one based on the Rossi design?

I know that on the older Collari engine (Picco based), changing the carb to a Nova one made a hell a lot of difference. When tuned properly, it will beat even the best engines on the track. Don't know about the newer Rossi based designs though or if you could fit the Nova carb on it.
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Old 06-08-2004, 09:12 PM   #12285
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Are you referring to the older Collari engine based on the Picco engine or the newer one based on the Rossi design?

I know that on the older Collari engine (Picco based), changing the carb to a Nova one made a hell a lot of difference. When tuned properly, it will beat even the best engines on the track. Don't know about the newer Rossi based designs though or if you could fit the Nova carb on it.
Sorry D. I havent been watching the new Collari's. Didnt realise they went to Rossi design. It was the old Picco based units. Switching the carb would probably have made them go but then again why would I want to spend all that money just to have to add a different carb to make it work I would rather have bought a Picco 12 and modded it and stuck my nova carb on it. Would have been cheaper and probably faster too
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