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Old 06-01-2004, 04:35 AM   #11746
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Originally posted by InitialD
I guess it's best to set the idle back to 1 mm thereabouts, reset the LSN and HSN and start back again. If done correct, it'll be spot on most of the time.
BTW, do you know what is the stock setting for the old 5-port black JP? My Rody is OK now but I had a tough time tuning the JP in my 705 yesterday. Like MarkP says though, the air is cooler and denser here in the UK.

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[i]I took out my STS engine after keeping it aside for some time and decided to run it on the 710. I had a hell of a time tuning it. Told myself just go back to stock rich setting and set it from there. Bang. It was spot on after that. [/B]
That's what I'll need to do with the JP I think, go back to stock and tune from there.
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Old 06-01-2004, 04:36 AM   #11747
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Originally posted by KevinS
I don't believe it.
Well, its a Martian year
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Old 06-01-2004, 04:50 AM   #11748
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Did you do the pinch test Mark? The other way to check the LSN is to determine if the engien can idle for about 20 to 30 seconds or so after a good rev and you're able to give it a good hard rev without the engine stalling afterwards. If it gurgles and stalls, then the LSN is on the rich side.

The way I described earlier is to set the LSN in the ball park after richening it. This is done with the idle set to open about 1 mm thereabouts at neutral position. Once that is gotten, then start to lean out the HSN till you get very crisp high revs. Put the car on track to tune further. Adjust the HSN, LSN and the idle screw 5 to minutes plus minus to get you the correct setting.

It is important to set the idle correct at about 1 mm opening or so. Once that is set, you only need to play around plus minus 10 minute needle movements to tune the idle. That's all. If you're on the rich side on the LSN, the engine will not idle well and you will tend to open the idle bigger. This will come to a point where the engine will overheat because of too much air going into the engine at idle.
I did do the pinch test too, is it so reliable? I tuned it to the point where the engine cut out when I pinched - then I turned back so that the revs raised when pinched - could it also be affected from the idle screw setting?

I'm going to try starting off at about 1.5mm and seeing if I can get it to idle well and then lean it.

What you're saying about letting the engine idle for 20-30 secs and then hit the throttle - if it gurgles and dies could it not also come from a too rich a HSN? Sow was saying that maybe a rush of fuel came in and flooded the engine when I hit the throttle.

You need to join us on the chat room tonight on 3hobby - Engine Doctor
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Old 06-01-2004, 05:13 AM   #11749
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Originally posted by markp27
...

You need to join us on the chat room tonight on 3hobby - Engine Doctor
Yup! Definitely ... I need his help too. Did you see this?

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Originally posted by thamjk
My old lecturer always like to tortures us with this. 10% course work, 70% exam. Total 80%. To get A-main must at least 75%.


My rules of thumb here are.

Tune engine ask professor initialD.
Car tweaking ask professor soulfree.
Port engine ask professor TVVT.
Coloring body shell ask Crashed_1.
Selling car ask tomato fatini.
Engine tuning Lord.
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Old 06-01-2004, 05:22 AM   #11750
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Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Yup! Definitely ... I need his help too. Did you see this?



Engine tuning Lord.
Hmm we need the Lord on the chat forum, then!
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Old 06-01-2004, 05:35 AM   #11751
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Originally posted by markp27
Hmm we need the Lord on the chat forum, then!
Hey D (and anyone else), the link to the chat room is on the front page announcement section. C'mon!
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Old 06-01-2004, 05:39 AM   #11752
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Thumbs up Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Texas Biggie 2004

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Originally posted by HELLION
Thank you! I'm glad you like it and I'm almost finished with that one in the picture. I hope to have them in full production in late June. By then I'll have my web site back up and I'll post it in here. By the way I raced them Sunday and I drove like s*^@ !! So they sure past the crash tests Here's another pic. of it


Ok great dude I will be looking forward to it.
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Old 06-01-2004, 11:09 AM   #11753
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Default Re: Re: Wear on Diff axle

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Are the pins on the PRO shafts better? I actually do not have any problems on the pins of the 710 dogbones. Just the outdrives.
I don't have problems with the pins, they only wear because of the problems of the diff axles. I hope Hudy will make better ones or 3Racing makes them from titanuim.
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Old 06-01-2004, 11:20 AM   #11754
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Default Re: Re: Re: Wear on Diff axle

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Originally posted by Schrijver99
I don't have problems with the pins, they only wear because of the problems of the diff axles. I hope Hudy will make better ones or 3Racing makes them from titanuim.

Beware of the 3Racing products!

My racing buddy had a set of the titanium universals on his S710, and they broke in his first race event! The shaft broke in half.
I too have had bad luck with 3Racing parts... they are all bling-bling but are cheap material... very easy to strip or break.
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Old 06-01-2004, 11:43 AM   #11755
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What do you guys think about the 710 Shocks??? I built mine and they don't seem too great...I think that my HPI shocks were better. Has any one replaced theirs?
Thanks
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Old 06-01-2004, 12:03 PM   #11756
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Quote:
Originally posted by jhigga15
What do you guys think about the 710 Shocks??? I built mine and they don't seem too great...I think that my HPI shocks were better. Has any one replaced theirs?
Thanks
The shocks on the 710 are the same type of shocks used on all of the Serpent cars.
It's even better than the ones in the past.
They have the keyed shafts, and they could open up to 5 holes now.
What problems are you having with them?
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Old 06-01-2004, 12:10 PM   #11757
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Wear on Diff axle

Quote:
Originally posted by GlennCauley
My racing buddy had a set of the titanium universals on his S710, and they broke in his first race event! The shaft broke in half.
I too have had bad luck with 3Racing parts... they are all bling-bling but are cheap material... very easy to strip or break.
3Racing with titanium universals? I thought they were made of nromal steel...

Anyway, I would only use 3Racing parts on non wearing and non rotating places... Excep for the titanium main shaft and the titanium mid shaft.

One of the better products from 3Racing which I have found useful is the CF front upper bumper brace. I found that the bumper is sturdier and the foam bumper does not disintegrate. The front body post is also held together better and the lower bumper plate does not break easily.
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Old 06-01-2004, 12:16 PM   #11758
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Wear on Diff axle

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
3Racing with titanium universals? I thought they were made of nromal steel...

Anyway, I would only use 3Racing parts on non wearing and non rotating places... Excep for the titanium main shaft and the titanium mid shaft.

One of the better products from 3Racing which I have found useful is the CF front upper bumper brace. I found that the bumper is sturdier and the foam bumper does not disintegrate. The front body post is also held together better and the lower bumper plate does not break easily.
I have the front uni's and the bumperbrace and it seems that the uni's work nicely don't have a problem with them ( yet ). And yes they are not from titanium but from normal steel.
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Old 06-01-2004, 12:20 PM   #11759
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Quote:
Originally posted by jhigga15
What do you guys think about the 710 Shocks??? I built mine and they don't seem too great...I think that my HPI shocks were better. Has any one replaced theirs?
Thanks
Replaced them? What do you find not great about the Serpent shocks?

Follow the manual instructions on how to build them.
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Old 06-01-2004, 12:24 PM   #11760
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Wear on Diff axle

Quote:
Originally posted by Herbie
I have the front uni's and the bumperbrace and it seems that the uni's work nicely don't have a problem with them ( yet ). And yes they are not from titanium but from normal steel.
Herbie, can you confirm are they just UJs or are they real CVDs like what KevinS posted some time back?
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