R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-27-2004, 07:15 PM   #11506
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default Re: Re: Re: Mazda 6 Wing

Quote:
Originally posted by PSI Racing
I'm not talking about the fins that you could add on.
I'm talking about the holes that are cut out in the picture.
It's sort of hard to see it, but it's in the middle of the wing.
Hookay ! Thanks for the pic. It's crystal clear now and like what you said, I did not try it out yet. In fact I never knew that you could do that to the rear wing to aid performance. Will try that out too. Thanks again.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 07:20 PM   #11507
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default Re: Clutch

Quote:
Originally posted by PSI Racing
Has anyone tried the yellow shoe with the modified flyweights and the stock spring?
I've modded my flyweight to sit in the middle of the flyweight pins AS WELL as putting 2 grub screws (M3x4) on each flyweight as per Goldfinger's recommendations. The yellow shoes have still not arrived yet. I'll be trying with the stock and harder spring.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 07:22 PM   #11508
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Clutch

Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
You got it buddy, especially the Ti shafts!
Titanium does not have a good wear characteristic. We need HUDY Spring steel.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 07:24 PM   #11509
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default Re: Re: will this servo fit in my 710?

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
They should fit ! Team Serpent in Holland uses them predominantly.
Ooophs, sorry. I think they predominantly use analog versions of the Sanwa servos. But I believe the digital ones should fit too.

BTW, for those who don't know, Airtronics = Sanwa.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 07:29 PM   #11510
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 787
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to kreidel
Default Short track

Have you raced any short tracks lately IntialD? Anything more you can share?
kreidel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 07:41 PM   #11511
Tech Fanatic
 
PSI Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Fontana, CA
Posts: 881
Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Mazda 6 Wing

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Hookay ! Thanks for the pic. It's crystal clear now and like what you said, I did not try it out yet. In fact I never knew that you could do that to the rear wing to aid performance. Will try that out too. Thanks again.
I think I'll send an email to Protoform to see how those holes aid in the performance of the body.
PSI Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 07:48 PM   #11512
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default Re: Short track

Quote:
Originally posted by kreidel
Have you raced any short tracks lately IntialD? Anything more you can share?
kriedel, I just posted the setup below for Sow&Steady. This is for front and rear ball diffs. Have you got to try the front ball diff yet? Or are you still sticking with the front solid axle?

************************************

Suspension geometry Front:
Downstops: -1 mm
Set-up ride height: 6 mm (Actual ride height !)
Camber Left: -1.5 degree
Camber Right: -1.5 degree
Track-width: 198 mm
Toe-in: -1 degree (Toe-out)
Caster setting (mm in front): 2 mm
Roll-center position upper arm (mm): 0 mm under (highest RC)
Upstop (mm): None

Suspension geometry Rear:
Downstops: 8 mm
Set-up ride height: 7 mm (Actual ride height !)
Camber Left: -4 degree
Camber Right: -3.5 degree
Toe-in: +2 degree
Track-width: 198 mm
Roll-center position upper: UTI
Roll-center position lower: LT
DRS arm position (low-mid-up): Mid

Shockabsorbers Front:
Springs: Yellow
Oil: 40W
Holes: 4x1.2mm
Cilinder type: composite
Shock-tower position: 2nd hole

Shockabsorbers Rear:
Springs: Yellow
Oil: 40W
Holes: 4x1.2mm
Cilinder type: composite
Shock-tower position: 1st hole
Lower shock position: Outside

Anti-roll bar front:
Thickness: Standard
Position: 90 degree (hardest)

Anti-roll bar rear:
Thickness: Standard
Position: 0 mm from end
Position on lower arm: Inside

Tires Front:
Make: SpeedMind Dishwheels
Hardness Left: 42 shore
Hardness Right: 42 shore
Diameter: 63 mm
Wear in 5 min. Left:
Wear in 5 min. Right:

Tires Rear:
Make: SpeedMind Dishwheels
Hardness Left: 42 shore
Hardness Right: 42 shore
Diameter: 63 mm
Wear in 5 min. Left:
Wear in 5 min. Right:

Transmission:
Pinion 1st: 16T
Pinion 2nd: 21T
Gear 1st: 61T
Gear 2nd: 57T

Front axle:
Type: Ball Diff
Diff. setting: Medium (when hot)

Rear axle:
Type: Ball Diff
Diff. setting: Soft (when hot)

Aerodynamics:
Body: Mazda 6
Wing: Standard
Gurney strip: -

Engine and pipe:
Engine: NovaMax
Version: P5
Head shims: 0.4mm
Glowplug: 6TC
Pipe: RDLogic .15 (61600)
Header: Novarossi 40603
Length: 88 mm
Fuel: 25% Model Technic

************************************

I tried to use 5x1.2 mm shock pistons with 50wt oil all around with front yellow and rear red. The car felt skatey a little but very nice on power steering. Should be good on large tracks.

You would also notice that I tried 42 shore front and rear tires. I was just testing to see the limit of how much the car would still be able to stick on the track. Softer tires like 37 shore all around should work much better.

You could also use the Serpent 30wt oil and open 4 or 5 holes with yellow springs all around. I found it works good if you have a technical track.

Last edited by InitialD; 05-27-2004 at 11:13 PM.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 09:03 PM   #11513
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 783
Default

Bro, lately I found this as a rule of thumb :
- With soft dampening(/fast acting_low visco), the car handles better with lower shore (35,37)
- With hard dampening(slow_high visco), the car is even better when you raising the tire shore (42 is max I ever try).
"Better" here is not always mean faster lap tomes.

I do not know the logic behind it. Before, I thought it was only something wrong with my car.
But it became a crystal clear at the GQ Cup event when everybody can not change their shore.

Any comment guys ??
GoldFinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 09:06 PM   #11514
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 27,214
Trader Rating: 182 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Like I mentioned before, the FW05R car is very suited for small tight tracks. But on big tracks, you need to modify their gearing properly. Else, you get a toast engine.

If you want the same kind of acceleration as the stock geared FW05R (1st gear FDR of 7.47) with 62 mm tires, you need to gear the 710 with 16/61 (1st gear FDR of 7.15) with a tire diameter of 59 mm to get the same kind of launch.

As for the 2nd speed on the 710, use 21/57 (FDR = 5.09) with 59 mm tire diameter to match with the FW05R's FDR of 5.44 with 62 mm tires if you think that the top end of the FW05R is suited for your track.
amazing "d" you sure know your stuff
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 09:15 PM   #11515
Tech Elite
 
MrChan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Singapore, Thailand, MARS, MOON
Posts: 2,071
Send a message via ICQ to MrChan
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Like I mentioned before, the FW05R car is very suited for small tight tracks. But on big tracks, you need to modify their gearing properly. Else, you get a toast engine.

If you want the same kind of acceleration as the stock geared FW05R (1st gear FDR of 7.47) with 62 mm tires, you need to gear the 710 with 16/61 (1st gear FDR of 7.15) with a tire diameter of 59 mm to get the same kind of launch.

As for the 2nd speed on the 710, use 21/57 (FDR = 5.09) with 59 mm tire diameter to match with the FW05R's FDR of 5.44 with 62 mm tires if you think that the top end of the FW05R is suited for your track.
Clutch Setting is also a big factor .
MrChan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 09:19 PM   #11516
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 783
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Marcos.S710
amazing "d" you sure know your stuff
Dont even think to challenge him on that stuff
GoldFinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 09:23 PM   #11517
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 27,214
Trader Rating: 182 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Dont even think to challenge him on that stuff
"INITIAL D"

Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 09:26 PM   #11518
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 783
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Dont even think to challenge him on that stuff
Marcos.. I meant "His" stuff
GoldFinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 10:33 PM   #11519
Tech Elite
 
SupermaxxRich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 2,532
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

How are you liking the front ball diff "D"??? I'm just about to install mine this weekend along with trying out some 40 shore GQ wheels.. Did you add any fuel tubing in the front to help keep the dog bones from coming out? What kind of tire wear are you getting with that setup posted above? I'm going to run the tires straight out of the box and see how they wear and if the car changes much in handling from when the tires are new till when there worn right down. Would you change anything on your setup posted above "D" if I were to run the tires at full size?? Thanks in advance.
SupermaxxRich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2004, 11:10 PM   #11520
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
How are you liking the front ball diff "D"??? I'm just about to install mine this weekend along with trying out some 40 shore GQ wheels.. Did you add any fuel tubing in the front to help keep the dog bones from coming out? What kind of tire wear are you getting with that setup posted above? I'm going to run the tires straight out of the box and see how they wear and if the car changes much in handling from when the tires are new till when there worn right down. Would you change anything on your setup posted above "D" if I were to run the tires at full size?? Thanks in advance.
I quite like the front ball diff. Well, it's a diff and it's easy to maintain and adjust externally. I don't add fuel tubing in the front outdrives. I just the front trackwidth to 197 mm (oophs, that reminds me... I need to edit the recent setup I posted) and it never comes out. Of course if you clip the curb or boards real bad, it will come off. No two ways about it.

As I'm using hard front and rear tires (42 shore), the rear still wears a little more than the rear. Say about 1 to 2 mm more. With the solid front axle, I could get the front and rear to wear about the same.

Anyway, when you use a different tire size, make sure you check your ride height again by playing around and turning the shock collar. When you adjust the ride height, make sure you check the wheel cambers again. Also, you would need to compensate on the droop settings when you adjust ride height. The amount of chassis uptravel from your ride height (taken as datum / zero level) till the tires lift off the ground should be the same when you use small or big tires. To get the same amount of this chassis uptravel, you need to adjust the droop screws.

For example, if you have 63 mm tires and use -1 and +8 for droop in front and rear, changing to 65 mm tires would give you an additional 1 mm of chassis uptravel (i.e. [65-63]/2=1). So to limit it back to original chassis uptravel as if your car had 63 mm tires, you would need to set your droop screws to 0 (i.e. -1 + 1) and +9 (i.e. +8 + 1) respectively for the front and rear when you use 65 mm tires.

Taking the example above, since very little droop was changed going from 63 mm to 65 mm tires, you could still stick with the same original droop settings. More so since the car has a wider sweatspot. Good luck.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Serpent 705 J_Longbrake Nitro On-Road 4252 02-23-2015 12:34 AM
WTB: NIB Serpent 710 aN4rK1 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 06-16-2006 09:23 PM
Serpent 835 JFCJ R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 02-20-2005 09:29 PM
Trade in Your Old Serpent 710 Parts for New Serpent 710 Parts fast_it710 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 09-17-2004 12:27 AM
Serpent Impulse w/MT-12 and Serpent Starter box - cheap Solara R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 03-07-2003 03:01 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:01 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net