Kidding D...u won't left me alone here in Malaysia without any info on 710, will u?
:blush: :blush: :cry:

Hah! Now that you've given him the idea of charging for it ... he would! :lol:

Don't forget, he may go to the Asai cup in March (in KK I think) so why would he want to share his "secrets" with anyone ? ;)

If really in KK, i will shower him with girls and booz. Somemore give him good pit area and a few pit crew. Of coz, this if he didn't bring his other half...the opposite sex :lol: :lol:

but sadly, it will be held in Miri or Kuching...in Sarawak. :cry: :cry:

Can I some too??? :nod:


Why sadly? You cannot come? Its not very far from Sabah ... c'mon! :p

Sure

I mean sad bcoz Master couldn't come to KK Sabah. i could be the next Master here in KK if only he just give me his engine bible :lol: :D :blush:

Just finished stripping and rebuilding my car from the weekend and i just have to praise Serpent for the cleaning gum.... I have always just sprayed the car with metho and blown off with a compressor. Great stuff...

The car was easy to pull down and clean.

SN

Hmmm ... bought the gum ages ago ... I should start using it! :lol:

The gum probably turned into some sort of a clay pottery knowing how long you kept the stuff under the bed ! :lol:

Hate to dissapoint you guys... No tech talk from Michael.:( He arrived on the track too late. Well, he did go around from pit table to pit table to talk to some of us. He also answered questions of what he thought about this and that. Pretty helpful.

During the heats and mains of the race day, he was almost at the bottom of the driver's stand along with the other pit guys watching and observing the cars.

Trim the throttle linkage with your Tx end point adjustment (EPA). Your throttle linkage should not make a buzzing sound. Trim it forward and backwards till you get no buzzing sound from your throttle servo.

When you press your brakes, the engine should not move. If you see it moving, then your brakes are set to hard and that your end points of your brakes should be limited. To make setting easy, take off the foam filter and see how the slide carb moves. When you press the brakes, the slide carb hole opening at idle should not change.

Also, when you press full throttle, the engine should also not move. The servo throttle movement should be just enough that it opens the slide carb just fully. Not more than required. If this is done correctly, your servos will last longer and you will have longer battery life.

except when running brake.. drag brake, which you really need to do, to be consistant and fast.. therfore you always have load on the brake side, that is were you get a digital failure..

Julius and Michael mentioned before that the setting in the manual is just for reference only. Like what you say, it is not scientific. Most of the time, it is by feel and touch like what you say. Of course, it depends from engine to engine as carb settings and pipe config can affect these settings.

Anyway, what they do is to set it tight. Go on the track and test the clutch out. Begin to loosen the clutch (you can do this externally) 1/4 or a turn each time till you get the best punch with least clutch slippage.

How did you know I hide my stuff under my bed ? Damn ... don't tell the wifey next time you see her! :lol:

Eh, how did you know about the 3 cars I took to Bangkok? :sneaky: :D Well, it's actually one 710 and the other two were 705. :D The Impulse PRO is now nearly a full blown 705 without the lightened 2 speed gearbox. Perhaps soon it will spot one.:D

How I wish I could have time to put my 705 on the Srinakarin track. I just wish I had more track time ! Given the limited experience and limited time with the 710, I personally felt that I could have done better with the 705. Not because the 705 is a better car than the 710. Just that I'm more familiar with it.

Ha! I do have my spies, even in Bangkok! ;)

I know what you mean. This was my why I was uncomfortable going in a rush. Believe it or not, I've not even had the time to put mine through the Hudy set-up yet till today!

On top of this my 705 and Pro are elsewhere. I even raced recently but only felt good enough to use the MTX. :blush:

centax
 

here is an new article on the 710 on mytsn ref the centax clutch spring

centax article

did anybody run ft. myers? how did it handle?

practise body is ready for Ft Myers..

car is ready..

motor is ready..

i am ready..

hope fredrik is ready..

lets race...!!!!!

Andrew, looking sharp.:nod:

That looks like the Stratus 1 bodyshell. I don't know what kind of track Ft Myers is but if there are any high speed cornerings to be Stratus 2.1 is more stable. Perhaps you may want to think on doing one up just in case. But then again, one man's meat is another's poison !

I have run Ft Myers before and I would not recommend the 2.1.. If you can not run the inside of the carousel, or hit the dogleg right.. double tap in the s you are 3 to 4 seconds off the pace.. I would start with muy 705 setup from last year.. it is on tsn....

:)

Guys

I just got my 710 together and I have a ns12s5 in it, I want to do this right so Im asking you for a little breakin advice, I know many people do it in different ways and I just trying to find out the best way to do it. All I want to know is: Do you use a breakin fuel? or do you break the engine in with the same fuel that your going to be using in the car?

Looking good and definitely ready to race!

:nod:

use the fuel you are going to race with....

recommend heat cycle the piston 3 to 4 times.. ie start the motor let idol until warm.. at least 185.. then shut off, move piston to bottom dead center , allow to cool completly.. repeat..

then begine the lapping process.. that is the run around for threee or four tanks with the motor rich and not putting a heavy load on the engine, and or the break in stand....

You're going to start a series of discussions on this because there are many camps on how to break-in engines.

Personally, I prefer to use the same fuel that I'm going to sue with the car. But then again that's just my personal preference. :)

:blush: That explains it perfectly, and that's where I was last year. I'll check TSN, and hope to do better this year!:nod:

:cry: I couldn't find it on TSN.:eek:

:nod: Ran my 705 this past sat. and T.Q.'d and won the main. Modified ns12 and hand modified by Palmaris Racing. I finally learn my car ....now it's time for a 710.

Congratulations ... goes to show that a tamed and mastered 705 can still kick butt! :nod:

Tearing down the car after the weekend, for routine maintenance,
and could not remove the 2 speed clutch shoes.
Despite having torqued and using locktite on the grub screw the retaining pin had migrated to one side, locking the shoes in place. After removing the grub screw the pin was easily moved and the shoes came right out. I'm going to grind an indent on the pin to allow the grub screw to seat in the middle of the pin and not migrate.

Oh yes. It kicks butt and it hurts the competition to know an "old" designed car still does that.:nod: :D :lol:

Congrats Pit ! :nod:

For me, I just do not use the grub screw to lock the pin anymore. Works fine and less troublesome.

Thank you InitialD, and thank you Andrew! Did you really have your front wheels toed IN?:cool:

:lol: I'll try to scan and post Michael Salven's setup sheet he did for his car in the recent Serpent Asia race in Thailand. Perhaps the guys going to Ft Myers would find it good.

Did he run it with the DRS active?

Nope. It was set to neutral. Ok from what I can remember off my head, basically he used 35 wt Serpent shock oils with 4 hole open all around. Started with all yellow springs. Later on the A main, he changed to all red and he felt that it was a bad decission as all yellow felt better for him.

No front sway bar. Back sway bar is set 3 mm from the tip. Front roll center set to have 4 mm spacer shims below the arm (lowest roll center). In the rear, shorter upper arm with the lower inserts set to the top (UBO / LT) to give higher rear roll center. Rear diff set to very tight. Caster is 3 mm spacer in the front of the upper arm. Downstops 0 in front and 6 in the rear. Tires were 62 mm 40 shore all around. That's about all I can remember.

InitialD, that was a great report, and thanks. I have found that on our dusty track, the 2 speed got dirtier than on any other car I've driven, including in the one way bearing. I'm afraid that this will be a big problem in the dustier climates.
So this brings us to what should be a good disscussion: how best to clean dirt out of one way bearings, without injuring, mechanically or chemically, those little plastic races?????:eek: :weird: :p

Not a problem. I think I'm just good at reporting and "racing" in the forums ! :lol: Not racing on the track.

It's true. The 2 speed clutch shoes get dirty on dusty tracks. Well, for me I clean the the 2 speed shoes and oil the one way bearing on a weekly basis whenever possible. My one way bearing rarely got dirty. Just the 2 speed shoes needed cleaning.

A good nitro cleaner should do the trick of cleaning the one way bearing. Blow it out with compress air. Let it dry and then lube the shaft on the 2 speed shoe that goes into the one way bearing with the Serpent one way bearing lube. One drop will do and smear it all around the shaft surface into thin layer.

Mr D are you going to post a report of your experience on mytsn? :-) Would be nice to read your report.

Cheers, Mark.