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Old 05-16-2004, 01:33 PM   #10576
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Quote:
Originally posted by roadrage
yes i race in expert class,i have 2 mtx-3 but i am goin to trade 1 for a 710,i am alright with tuning my car,but i got my dad insted of a lhb to help with do thing i dont no how to do since im only 13. well thanx for your opions,and if anyone has anygood set-ups for it can u please post them,
thanx,Austin!!
Hey, do you by any chance drive a 950R?
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Old 05-16-2004, 01:36 PM   #10577
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Default Re: Strange problem with the Centax

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
The only thing I can think of was that an Mugen guy hit the side of my car quite hard, just after I blew him away but I don't see how this would have caused the two bearing to fail.
Hi Mark. I don't know if what I'm going to say would be good news or is correct info... It could be caused by the engine crankshaft being bent. Did the car hit the 2 speed / clutch side? Did you strip any spurs or pinions?

I had that happen in Thailand race. My pinion got scraped on the tarmac after getting T boned (luckily shark pipe !) by a 1/8th scale car while practising. Found that the 2 normal clutch bearings just went bust simultanously. Somehow I had radio problems after that accident and could not continue practising. I went back to the hotel later on and changed to another engine for the race day next day and kept the other engine and only noticed the bent shaft when I came back home from Thailand...

If I were you, I'd take out the engine and the piston / sleeve / conrod out. Leave the crankshaft in with the bearings and try to spin the crankshaft manually by hand. Observe if the crankshaft tip wobbles...
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Old 05-16-2004, 01:37 PM   #10578
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Default Re: Servicing metal shielded bearing.

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Fortunately I have a couple of old centax shielded bearings which I can put in my 710, but one is quite gritty. I've cleaned it in degreaser and as I can't open the bearing, I've simply soaked it in serpent bearing oil. Seems nice and smooth now, but is there a better solution?
Exactly what you do... Usually, I just spray using a nitro cleaner or soak it ! If it's still gritty, I just throw it away.
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Old 05-16-2004, 01:39 PM   #10579
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Default Re: Re: Strange problem with the Centax

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD

If I were you, I'd take out the engine and the piston / sleeve / conrod out. Leave the crankshaft in with the bearings and try to spin the crankshaft manually by hand. Observe if the crankshaft tip wobbles...
Thanks for the tip - I look at it
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Old 05-16-2004, 01:40 PM   #10580
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Default Re: Re: Servicing metal shielded bearing.

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Exactly what you do... Usually, I just spray using a nitro cleaner or soak it ! If it's still gritty, I just throw it away.
Do you think the Serpent bearing oil is heavy enough for the centax bearings?
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Old 05-16-2004, 01:46 PM   #10581
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Default Re: Re: Re: Servicing metal shielded bearing.

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Do you think the Serpent bearing oil is heavy enough for the centax bearings?
That's a good question. I never degreased the original bearings in the clutch. I used them as is and only use the cleaning gum to take out dirt from these bearings externally. Once they are toast, I just throw them away. Because they are small, likelihood that the balls in the race would be damaged at such high speeds and heat.

Furthermore I think the light oil would spin inside the clutch if applied too much on the bearing.
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Old 05-16-2004, 01:49 PM   #10582
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Default Re: Re: Strange problem with the Centax

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Hi Mark. I don't know if what I'm going to say would be good news or is correct info... It could be caused by the engine crankshaft being bent. Did the car hit the 2 speed / clutch side? Did you strip any spurs or pinions?
The crank looks ok at first glance - I haven't taken it out of the motor, but I undid the glow plug and span the fly wheel - I could see no deflection in the movement of the crakshaft.

I can't remember where the dasterdly Mugen hit, but I see that my exhaust has a bit of a dent in it from the pulley, so maybe it was on the opposite side where he hit.

No spurs or pinions affected.

On a side note, my gears on my centax are looking pretty worn - do they wear quickly?

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 05-16-2004, 01:55 PM   #10583
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Default Re: Re: Re: Strange problem with the Centax

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
The crank looks ok at first glance - I haven't taken it out of the motor, but I undid the glow plug and span the fly wheel - I could see no deflection in the movement of the crakshaft.
Sometimes it's difficult to see. Especially if you spin it like that. The bend could be very minor. Almost undetectable when you spin it like that. But once you spin it at higher speed, you could see the slight deflection if it's slighty bend.

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
I can't remember where the dasterdly Mugen hit, but I see that my exhaust has a bit of a dent in it from the pulley, so maybe it was on the opposite side where he hit.
It only takes a specific knock on the crankshaft (front of the Centax clutch) and the crankshaft could be bend slightly.

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
On a side note, my gears on my centax are looking pretty worn - do they wear quickly?
They do wear faster than say pinions on the 705. I guess it's due to the finer pitch. Although mine wears, I am still able to use them. In fact, I have not changed any yet due to wear. Only changed once due to damage accident in Thailand.
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Old 05-16-2004, 02:35 PM   #10584
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Checked the crank - it's fine - no bends Nice to look inside the motor, though - first time I'd taken it to pieces

I'll have to get some spares for this, I think

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 05-16-2004, 02:36 PM   #10585
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InitialD no i dont drive 1 but i wish,is there sum1 my age that does?
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Old 05-16-2004, 03:59 PM   #10586
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Default Re: Re: Re: Servicing metal shielded bearing.

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Do you think the Serpent bearing oil is heavy enough for the centax bearings?
Mark, those bearings take huge high RPM's so keep the oil as thin as possible
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Old 05-16-2004, 04:58 PM   #10587
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So any tips "D" on keeping the dog bones in place when running the front diff? I'd really appreciate some help, thanks....
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Old 05-16-2004, 05:41 PM   #10588
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Need some setups

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
It's true that driving a oneway and a full time 4WD needs different driving styles. That is why I am really wanting to go back to oneway. I have actually driven oneway all my time with the Impulse and 705. I only tried diff and front solid when I got the 710.

For the front ball diff, the same setup as per the front solid was fine except I thought I changed to all around 40 shore tires instead of using softer front. Then I started playing around with a different setup. That too worked out pretty well on small and medium size tracks.

************************************

Suspension geometry Front:
Downstops: -1mm
Set-up ride height: 6mm (Actual ride height !)
Camber Left: -1.5 degree
Camber Right: -1.5 degree
Track-width: 199mm
Toe-in: -2.0 degree (Toe-out)
Caster setting (mm in front): 1mm
Roll-center position upper arm (mm): 0 mm under
Upstop (mm): None

Suspension geometry Rear:
Downstops: 6mm
Set-up ride height: 7mm (Actual ride height !)
Camber Left: -3.5 degree
Camber Right: -3.0 degree
Toe-in: +2.0 degree
Track-width: 200 mm
Roll-center position upper: UTI
Roll-center position lower: LT
DRS arm position (low-mid-up): Level

Shockabsorbers Front:
Springs: yellow
Oil: 35W
Holes: 4 x 1.2 mm
Cilinder type: aluminum
Shock-tower position: 1st hole

Shockabsorbers Rear:
Springs: yellow
Oil: 35W
Holes: 4 x 1.2 mm
Cilinder type: aluminum
Shock-tower position: 2nd hole
Lower shock position: outside

Anti-roll bar front:
Thickness: Stock
Position: 0 degree (flat)

Anti-roll bar rear:
Thickness: standard
Position: 0 mm from the end of bar
Position on lower arm: outside

Tires Front:
Make: SpeedMind Dishwheels
Hardness Left: 40 shore
Hardness Right: 40 shore
Diameter: 62mm
Wear in 5 min. Left:
Wear in 5 min. Right:

Tires Rear:
Make: SpeedMind Dishwheels
Hardness Left: 40 shore
Hardness Right: 40 shore
Diameter: 62mm
Wear in 5 min. Left:
Wear in 5 min. Right:

Transmission:
Pinion 1st: 16T
Pinion 2nd: 21T
Gear 1st: 61T
Gear 2nd: 57T

Front axle:
Type: adjustable diff
Diff. setting: Medium (when hot)

Rear axle:
Type: adjustable diff
Diff. setting: Light (when hot)

Aerodynamics:
Body: Mazda 6
Wing: Standard
Gurney strip: -

Engine and pipe:
Engine: NovaMax 5 port
Version: P5
Head shims: 0.4mm
Glowplug: 6TF
Pipe: RDLogic (7.2 mm inline)
Header: Novarossi (short inline manifold)
Length: Approx 88 mm
Fuel: 25% Model Technic

************************************

I used a little more droop due tot he track being bumpy. I tried playing with 4 x 1.2 mm hole shocks with 35wt oil and yellow springs. It works quite OK for our bumpy tracks. Sometimes it makes it too bouncy especially with the problem I had in the rear ball diff outdrive. Perhaps I will try 40wt or even 50wt with 5 x 1.2 mm holes like our friends in Holland and see how it goes.
thanks for the set up "D"
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Old 05-16-2004, 08:18 PM   #10589
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Default Charging batteries

I have just purchased an apex infinity charger to charge my reciever and glow plug cells can you please tell me what amp rate i should be charging at?
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Old 05-16-2004, 08:24 PM   #10590
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Default Re: Charging batteries

Quote:
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
I have just purchased an apex infinity charger to charge my reciever and glow plug cells can you please tell me what amp rate i should be charging at?
I would charge the receiver anywhere from 0.5 to 0.8 Amps. Max would be 1 Amp as they are AAA type cells. For the glow plug cells, I would charge it at 1 to 2 Amps as they are C type cells. Make sure the Apexi charger is able to charge 1 cell as the glow plug ignitor consist of 1 cell only. Not many chargers can charge a single cell. For the Tx pack if you have (AA cells), I would also do about 1 Amp for charging.
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