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Originally posted by Motorman Only with a high bite Red Rulon AR shoe and weighted flyweights. It wont work with the stock shoe. you could use weighted and non weighted flyweights with it depending on how you like it. The red shoe slips less reducing clutch bell heat. because of this the engagement point needs to be higher to eliminate low speed bog and by the time you get the stock spring adjusted into the window it is almost bottomed in coil bind. If you don't have the shoe you could use glens setup with the yellow serpent shoe. I will have a hundred red shoes finished next thursday. Now I'm going to try with a yellow shoe. About the red ones that you talk about I would be interested to try one if you intend to sell some. |
yes they are available as of next thursday.
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: manifold problem
Originally posted by Sow&Steady As for my bags, still waiting for D to sponsor the ticket. If he does mine I'm sure he'll sponsor yours too. Then we go .. you carry my bags and I'll carry yours! :lol: |
Originally posted by markp27 Rain dance!! :eek: are you mad! :weird: :lol: Anyway, the skies held up yesterday and it was overcast ! Pretty cooling to play in the afternoon.:D My apologies to rub it in Mark, Sow&Steady and the rest but today is going to be another beautiful day ! :nod: :lol: |
Re: .8M gears
Originally posted by Profoxcg Does the S710 gears are .8M ? or no? if not what are they? sorry for the stupid questoin, i was just reading the R40 thread.... Yes, the 710 spurs and pinion gearing is based on 0.8 module gearing. |
Re: New Serpent Owner
Originally posted by B4 Is there anything I should pay special attention to during the building of the Serpent. Originally posted by B4 By the way we have a reasonably open track with fast entry and exit to the straight. |
Re: Re: Re: Saturday surpise!
Originally posted by markp27 Take a look at the thrust bearing first - mine seemed to have no grease left on it. I should have checked it after my run-in :nod: I think the most important thing about the thrust bearing is to make sure that step 8.7 on page 28 of the manual to put shims to minimise end play is followed. Next make sure the thrust bearing is installed correctly. Inner ring (5.0 mm) first towards the clutch shoes followed by the bigger one (5.2 mm). If you use the Mugen Super Grease, you would not need to grease it often. I have not greased mine about a month of racing and it still works plenty fine. You can still see grease sticking to the balls of the inner ring. |
Re: Re: Centax
Originally posted by cox049 Now I have the same TB for 30 tanks and it looks as new. The secret is the grease and re-grease it at least once in a race day I think with the Mugen Super Grease, you do not need to regrease it every so often. If you still see grease left over on the balls after race, then it should still be OK. |
Originally posted by markp27 Here's a pic of the smearing - see what you think - I'm already paranoid after one bust thrust bearing :lol: |
Originally posted by Motorman My 710 has yet to hit the pavement but some of my friends have been running it for a while. |
Originally posted by cox049 Motorman your analysis of the 710 clutch is very accurate. I wore down my first shoe in a weekend and blaming the engine tuning all the time for the lousy clutch engage until I decided to try and cut the flyweights. the change was day and night!! The smile came back to my face. Also the Thrust bearing stated to look fresher Yup, Motoman's explanation about cooking the thrust bearing sounds logical. But that does not preclude that other factors like excessive end play, not lubing the thrust bearing and wrong installation of the Centax would not destroy the Centax thrust bearings... |
Originally posted by Motorman Only with a high bite Red Rulon AR shoe and weighted flyweights. |
New Serpent Owner
Originally posted by B4 Hi All, I'm going to become a proud Serpent 710 owner in a couple of days. I've pushed the Kyosho V-One-RR Evo as far as it will go and got sick of having to get hop up's that the manufacturer should have thought of. Is there anything I should pay special attention to during the building of the Serpent. I have ordered the locking pins for the front diff and also the ball diff. I have adapted my driving style to suit a oneway. Any thoughts on what is the best drive configuration for the front. By the way we have a reasonably open track with fast entry and exit to the straight. just follow carefully the instruction manual, keep the setup book handy; bring it anywhere u go and read Mark FAQ. Go to Glenns Publication list...read everything. thansk there Glenn. other than all these, get use to the lighter 710 style of driving. its one damn fast car, i tell u that.:nod: :nod: |
thrust bearing
just wanna share something here...i already replace my blown TB with normal bearing and it stays intact for one month usage already...and it still can spin for more than 5 seconds...cheaper also :nod: :D
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: manifold problem
Originally posted by InitialD I'm still waiting to strike it big on the lottery ticket ! :rolleyes: :lol: When I do, I'll let you guys know ! ;) :lol: |
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