Yeah, and when changing the belts how much is needed to get to the mid and 2 speed shafts?

Initial D Posted Cool. This is exactly how I build my Centax clutch. The only difference that I do different is the end float (0.4 mm instead of 0.7 mm), the way the flyweights are mounted and close to no end play at all after clutch assembly.[/QUOTE]

Ditto! This is how I set my 1.8 'M' clutch and I do it by feel mostly. I will modify the red clutch shoes made for my 'M' and maybe use the super hard spring as well.:nod:

Hey Harry concerning take down and rebuild time, it's at least three times faster than the R40. The 710 is made for keeping you stress free on the track. I also have the R40 (Except for the super chassis, it has every option part available to make it lighter and it is still heavier than the 710) and I sent it to my buddy in Florida who wanted to try it. The main reason I sent it away was engine access. It's impossible to remove the engine without moving the brake bracket or the radio plate. You know what it takes to get to the diffs.....

Four 3mm BH screws, one e clip plus one grub screw in the front and Four 3mm BH screws plus one grub screw on the brake pulley on the rear to change the belts.

Serpent did their homework and have created a true racers dream car. Don't wait!
Tell Ron to have yours by the register so you can start building it!

Chavo

OOPS! I forgot the 2 speed on the rear shaft... Anyway you get the idea.

hey Chavo....Are you saying its easier to get to the two speed shaft and front mid shaft on the 710 than the R40?...

say what you want about the HPI's weight,its the easiest car to work on I've ever seen(besides the tc3)...

Gee, let me think.....YES!

Harry, go to mytsn.com and look at the i-manual for the 710. The diffs are held in the car with bearing caps.

did you buy your car from RON?..

Bring that thing by and let me look at it..

No I did not buy it from Ron, I bought it from Bruckner. They are getting another shipment this week and I'm buying another one!

but how about the front mid shaft and 2 speed assembly(shaft and all)...

Hey guys, finished building the front assembly and have some concerns. Pardon me if this has already been answered earlier.
After installing the dogbones and adjusting it with the suggested length of the hub carrier/arms (step 1.11), I inspected how much throw left/right it can go, and noticed that there is a possibility for the dogbone to pop-out if you really set an aggressive end point (looking forward with servos are installed). How do you guys set this ? I was thinking of putting a spacer in the one way hub to push a dogbone some in the carrier, that would somehow eliminate the possibility of it to pop-out but the throw from left/right would somehow be lessened. Appreciate the help on this.

never believe everything you read, remember there is no fuel tank problem you infidel. :lol:

Wanna wager some green. They'll have ball diffs available to them too you wait and see. They bring everything but the kitchen sink to the Fort. Usually they are pretty good about making them available to everyone thats there, at least thats been the impression I had the last time I was there.


Actually D I think your confusing the black shoe with the XP graphite shoe. The black shoe is fairly hard and slips quite a bit and wears out decent. The XP is more gray colored and has better bite than the black, the yellow is abrasive and harder it bites similar to a red Rulon shoe however I think the Rulon shoe is the most abrasive and bites the hardest.

I run the Red shoe modified with a soft spring on my cars, as the new engines have excellent low speed torque. If your clutch engages to high you get smoked off the corner (sounds impressive but the car ain't goin nowhere) and then you go up in smoke in tire spin. I set up the clutch to engage as low as possible without bogging the engine, If its bogging don't be afraid to gear first down and step the two speed more teeth. we fought this bad on Impacts untill we went to 15 on first. I even latched onto some old Excel centax bells that are one piece and have 14 and 13 on first for my impact.

The front and rear shaft's are like my 1.8 Mugen. Take a close look at it on line, when I did I liked it... I got the car and I LOVE IT!

Centax Clutch
 

Mike Myers was interested in Art Carbonell's thought on the car??

From the Starting Grid Forum: Art Carbonell testing the clutch set up that many have reported as being very unresponsive.

ART:The one thing I noticed that I didn’t really care for was thethrottle response. I’m not sure what the problem is exactly. I want to try it some more. I played with the clutch spring a little bit. It didn’t seem to help that much. You had to pull the trigger quite a bit before the car actually “went”. This will be something for my next test session, trying to figure out what it is. I heard of some people having a similar problem. This is with the standard gear ratio.

As to the clutch, Art got it figured out. Apparently the spring was
wrong. After checking everything out, Art installed what he felt was the correct spring, and that cured the problem. Here's a photo of the two springs:

http://www.swrc.biz/clutch-spring.jpg

Don't worry. Finish the car and you'll see the steering throw is limited by the servo saver to a point where the dogbones will stay put.

Centax Clutch
 

No part #'s are given or tension ratings, however,The spring at the left (gold color) is the one that didn't perform the way Art felt it should. The spring at the right (gray color) is the one that worked the way Art wanted it to.

Mine appears ok at this time, make sure it turns freely in the collar and is close to flush with the end of your shaft.

Anyone know if different rated springs are available to try.

I just hope Delta comes out with the Red Clutch shoe for the centax three, they seem to work great in most situations.

Clutch engagement
 

I wonder if any of you have this problem on your 710s...the Centax seem to engage quite inconsistently...ie: it engages beautifully but then slips every alternate lap or so...:confused: :confused:

Any idea when the pins for the solid axle front will be released?

Brad was suppose to call dave at delta already, tell him to get on the stick.

I believe that gray spring is what came on some of the impacts, a soft mugen spring is close to it. Most centax springs are the same diameter and close in length. So you can look around at what is available off the shelf from other makers.

also as I said before scuff the shoe and bell with scotchbrite (the green stuff like you use to clean dishes with works ok if you cant find real scotchbrite) after you run it in, The black coating and any residual oil will glaze the shoe. once you scuff it you won't have to do it again.

Crashed you should be able to use standard shaft drive pins like drive the pulleys, I'm curious how you are suppose to hold them in? do you install them then tape around the axle to retain them??

Julius hows that suppose to be done?

Thanks for the response.
When you say that you have to sand the parts, does it mean that the parts wont fit without sanding? Or do they just bind? :p

That's because the food's good.... No need for the kitchen stuff:D

I think you are referring to the locking pins of the front one way? Thare is an alu collar that slides over the pins and held in place by an o-ring.

Bind:)

Julius, we have to define terms. The only purpose of the original calculation, is to determine the shim requirement; the "B" measurement IS fixed, as there are no shims present during the initial measurement process. "B" is modified only by the addition of shims between the thrust bearing carrier and the thrust bearing. If you choose to re-measure after adding a shim, the "B" is no longer "B". It becomes, for example, "BS" (for "B" with a shim). Does this matter? It matters; if "A" is less than 1.7 mm you cannot obtain the clutch clearance of 0.7mm.

Shim = A - B - 0.7
IN the initial measurement
Shim = 0
So,
0 = A - B - 0.7
transposing
B + 0.7 = A
"B" is fixed at 1 mm, so
1 + 0.7 = A
A = 1.7 mm
ANY VALUE OF "A" LESS THAN 1.7 MM RESULTS IN A NEGATIVE NUMBER FOR SHIM REQUIREMENT. FOR EXAMPLE
Shim = A - B - 0.7
Let A' = 1.6
let A = A'
B = 1
Then
1.6 -1 -0.7 = Shim
transposing
Shim = - 0.1 mm

I believe this text is as I remember it from the original Centax clutch instruction (although memory grows dim). :)

Re: Centax Clutch
 

My old Vetec spring looks the same as the kit one. The Mugen mtx3 spring is also 1.8 mm diameter, and the same width but is 10 mm long instead of 9 mm.:mad:

Tried Fast Harrys recommended HPI 74100 pinion gear wrench-works better than my fingers! Less than $8:nod:

Guys Im new to this thread and was wondering if you can get the 710 with engine and exhaust in one and how much, and what engine and pipe would come with it and are they any good?

:cool:

Looks like the Kyosho spring.

I did not need to sand or grind anything when building the 710 unlike when it was necessary for the 705. Only the shock pistons need to be smoothen to take out small plastic flashes. That's all.

You are right... In all my Centax clutch assemblies on different engines and other car makes, I have never needed to put negative shims ! :lol:

But seriously, this only happens if you put a lot of shims at step 8.1. More than the recommended 0.5 mm. Somehow with the recommeded 0.5 mm shim, things always work out fine that you always need to add shim in the front of the thrust bearing as in step 8.6. My 2 cents.

On the 705, I needed to put O rings or fuel tubings as spacers in the front between the dogbone and the one way drive cup to keep the dogbones from falling. On the 710, I have not seen the need to do that... yet !

I don't know how you're measuring the length of the hub carrier/arms but make sure you set your front trackwidth to 200 mm or below at the end of the day. That should keep the dogbones in place.

I think the grey ones were the older ones from the Centax I. The gold ones that come with Centax II (and III) are harder and they are 1.8 mm in diameter if I'm not mistaken. For me, the harder the spring, the better the punch ! :nod: :D

Ah, I forgot to measure the length of the pins...:o I know that the diameter of the pins should be 2.5 mm. I had one of those pins around from previous parts of the Impulse cars and it fitted tight and fine. The length was just right.

Dennis, instead of waiting for the aluminum collar, what people here are doing is to use the thick silicone coupler meant to join the exhaust pipe and manifold ! I think you should have some around do ya?:sneaky: :D That would do the trick and cheap too ! :nod: :lol:

I use the Mugen hard silver spring on my 705 Centax II clutch. Although like you say their springs are like 10 mm long, it'll fit fine in the Serpent Centax clutch.

Thanks for the reminder Dennis ! :nod: :lol: I almost forgot that I should not believe what I read...:lol:

:lol: Well, when I said that "they" would not have the yellow shoes, I meant the "ordinary" Serpent drivers. Not the real ones ! :lol:

Ummm Dennis, I hate to prove somebody wrong but if you look at the parts list, you will see that the included stock clutch shoe 802508 is the Centax-3 clutch shoe XP !:nod: Unless of course Serpent screwed up with the part number again... :rolleyes: :lol: I believe the other black one you're referring to has already been made obselete by Serpent if I'm not wrong...

Thanks for the tip Dennis.:nod: For me, I think I'm addressing the issue the other way around. I like to use harder springs or set it hard and then move the end float as close as possible. I think this gives me very good punch of the bat ! :D

Cool.:nod: Does it grip the pinions only or does it grip the clutchbell as well?

I think the Mugen one grips both the pinions as well as the clutchbell...

way too much time and too darn cold to race.. very very obviouse...

who would want a ball diff in front at the ft?

just had to ask..:)

:lol: Yup, you got Dennis on that one. :nod: I don't think anybody runs diffs in the front at Winternats !

Say will anybody plan to run the solid axle in the rear at the Nats?

LOL
 

Don't question the Serpent Guru!!!:nod: :lol: :nod:

Re: LOL
 

:lol: Naah, if anything, I have my utmost respects for the Engine Guru ! http://212.227.253.81/forum/images/graemlins/bow.gif