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Old 04-30-2004, 03:22 AM   #9241
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
Still searching some answer but I still believe on Roll Axis and weight transfer plays important parts with this matter since now the A arms hanging higher from the chassis than the front. It would have been different story if you get higher/lower RC by only using upper arms.
The rear roll center progresses from low to high in the following order;

UTO/LB, UTI/LB, UBO/LB, UBI/LB, UTO/LT, UTI/LT, UBO/LT and UBI/LT.
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Old 04-30-2004, 03:32 AM   #9242
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Originally posted by InitialD
The rear roll center progresses from low to high in the following order;

UTO/LB, UTI/LB, UBO/LB, UBI/LB, UTO/LT, UTI/LT, UBO/LT and UBI/LT.
The outer/inner settings on the top point have hardly any change in roll center. The side traction may increase with the outer position due to more camber change, but you will lose some forward traction (braking and acceleration).

Remeber that roll centers work in relation to each other.
If you go up one step in roll center both front and rear the balance of the car will be almost the same, but the response of the car is increased, and the difference in balance between off and on throttle is smaller.
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Old 04-30-2004, 03:38 AM   #9243
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Originally posted by Julius
The outer/inner settings on the top point have hardly any change in roll center. The side traction may increase with the outer position due to more camber change, but you will lose some forward traction (braking and acceleration).
Thanks for the info.

Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
Remeber that roll centers work in relation to each other.
If you go up one step in roll center both front and rear the balance of the car will be almost the same, but the response of the car is increased, and the difference in balance between off and on throttle is smaller.
So if I use a higher front roll center, that would make the rear relatively lower if I did not touch it?

What do you mean by "the difference in balance between off and on throttle is smaller"?

Julius, I posted a question to you the other day. I guess you missed it... I'll post it here again.

*************************

Julius, some questions regarding your latest setup posted at mytsn. You used 37 shore tires. I guess it's because of the short 5 minute heat. Would there be any changes to the setup for the longer A main if 40 shore or harder tires were to be used?

Yellow front and red springs behind with no front sway bar? Looking for more steering?

I also noticed that you used a higher rear roll center and the highest front roll center.

Thanks.

*************************
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Old 04-30-2004, 06:36 AM   #9244
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Thanks for the info.



So if I use a higher front roll center, that would make the rear relatively lower if I did not touch it?

What do you mean by "the difference in balance between off and on throttle is smaller"?

Julius, I posted a question to you the other day. I guess you missed it... I'll post it here again.

*************************

Julius, some questions regarding your latest setup posted at mytsn. You used 37 shore tires. I guess it's because of the short 5 minute heat. Would there be any changes to the setup for the longer A main if 40 shore or harder tires were to be used?

Yellow front and red springs behind with no front sway bar? Looking for more steering?

I also noticed that you used a higher rear roll center and the highest front roll center.

Thanks.

*************************
Do any of you know what the addy is to the NovaMax web site, I want to 'take a look' to see why they are soo expensive.
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Old 04-30-2004, 07:09 AM   #9245
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Originally posted by PUNISHER
Just a few more days until the Grand Opening Race!!

Can't wait!

Don't forget to stop by to say hi Wap..................
Look for this guy driving this body!
Of Course; great body, i will be there on Sunday
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Old 04-30-2004, 04:03 PM   #9246
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Originally posted by BaxterC
Do any of you know what the addy is to the NovaMax web site, I want to 'take a look' to see why they are soo expensive.
www.rcmaxpower.com but theres not much on the page just pics of a .21 engine
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Old 04-30-2004, 06:05 PM   #9247
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Originally posted by BaxterC
Do any of you know what the addy is to the NovaMax web site, I want to 'take a look' to see why they are soo expensive.
I thought those were actually quite inexpensive for modified engines?
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Old 04-30-2004, 06:16 PM   #9248
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Default Second time around

I decided to give the 710 another try to see if I could make it work for me. Unfortuntely the race was called tonight due to rain so I have to wait another week and see what happens. I bought this one used but had to go through it completely due to the original owner doing such a piss poor job building it the first time. He did not even line the shock caps up to fit right with the nub....that might explain what I had to work with. Luckily I had some knowledge from the first one so I was able to get it into shape fairly painlessly.

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Old 04-30-2004, 07:44 PM   #9249
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Originally posted by KevinS
I thought those were actually quite inexpensive for modified engines?
They are a little less compare to JP FX version at this moment, but they already consider expensive.
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Old 04-30-2004, 07:50 PM   #9250
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
What do you mean by "the difference in balance between off and on throttle is smaller"?
I believe the height of the RC when moving.

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Julius, some questions regarding your latest setup posted at mytsn.
Alright... looks like I`m not alone then

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I also noticed that you used a higher rear roll center and the highest front roll center.
This is I`ve been trying to avoid (high front RC) for 2 reasons,
First, the upper deck is no longer supporting front upper bearing block. Second, one way drive cup would crush upper bearing block in the even when you were loosing your dogbones. But I guess if there isn`t any choice, you just have to do it.
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Old 04-30-2004, 08:06 PM   #9251
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Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
The outer/inner settings on the top point have hardly any change in roll center. The side traction may increase with the outer position due to more camber change, but you will lose some forward traction (braking and acceleration).
Julius, this is healthy conversation.. i hope you dont mind to describe me.
What does forward traction means? kinda lost for this...

But I do know that in outer(upper) position, when the car pushed down(hard acceleration) the rear camber does not change so much. Only when it leans to one side, that makes a huges camber changes, almost 2 deg (with full dia. tire).
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Old 04-30-2004, 11:46 PM   #9252
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Default Re: Second time around

Quote:
Originally posted by kreidel
[B]I decided to give the 710 another try to see if I could make it work for me. Unfortuntely the race was called tonight due to rain so I have to wait another week and see what happens. I bought this one used but had to go through it completely due to the original owner doing such a piss poor job building it the first time. He did not even line the shock caps up to fit right with the nub....that might explain what I had to work with. Luckily I had some knowledge from the first one so I was able to get it into shape fairly painlessly.
Great paint. love the combination.
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Old 05-01-2004, 12:14 AM   #9253
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: 710 CVD,s ????

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Ummm, I'm just hoping that their quality is better than the ones made for the Mugen...
just want to confirm,yes, the 3Racing CVD is of good quality. i have been using them for 2 months already. i've hit head on bricks, sideway, been hit by other car, rolled over...mostly every incident u can think of....the CVD is still intact and still straight, not bent.
i noticed also i got fast corner too...smooth i would say.
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Old 05-01-2004, 01:17 AM   #9254
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Julius, some questions regarding your latest setup posted at mytsn. You used 37 shore tires. I guess it's because of the short 5 minute heat. Would there be any changes to the setup for the longer A main if 40 shore or harder tires were to be used?

Yellow front and red springs behind with no front sway bar? Looking for more steering?

I also noticed that you used a higher rear roll center and the highest front roll center.

Thanks.

*************************
The 37's were indeed to get maximum grip in the 5 minute heats. They'd last only 20minutes in a final though. Going to the 40's for the final I'd most likely leave all the same and just fine tune with the diff during the warmup of the final. Or try a set in the last qualifier to see if the balance changes.

The roll centers was something I tried in Saturday practice and in the higher grip it worked really good. It makes the cars reaction a lot sharper and that way it's easier to point the car down the right line. In lower grip conditions it may get too nervous though.

Red rear springs are to keep the rear in shape in our very fast corner (75-80 kp/h) corner onto the straight. With small tires the car would bottom out with yellow springs. I like running without the front sway bar. It gives a little more steering and also slows the reaction of the front a little with the high roll centers.
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Old 05-01-2004, 01:21 AM   #9255
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Julius, this is healthy conversation.. i hope you dont mind to describe me.
What does forward traction means? kinda lost for this...
You have side traction (ability to not slide outward in a corner) and forward traction (ability to accelerate in a straight line out of the corner).

In a way with foam tires, more camber change gives more side traction but less forward traction. If the camber change is big the tire will angle more in the corner resisting the side forces better. But with a big camber change during braking or accelerating the tire contac area gets less so you lose grip.

Make sense?
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