Has Fredrik got one? If he has, just polish up on your Jedi Mind Tricks http://www.3hobby.net/modules/Forums...wistedevil.gif

*faint* *thud* Well after the Serpent Truck Body - I'll believe anything now :lol: :lol:

Ah, you mean like that, no, those are moving freely...


I know, but the left side of the car... the front and read pivot ball differ in droop, the right side of the car is fine... so when i only measure the read pivot balls, the droop won't be correct because the point where the wheel is attacht is in the middle of the read and front pivot ball, the front pivot ball being higher, meaning the point where the wheel attaches will be higher....

i'll try again... this weekend is dutch 1:10 champion race, i'll ask some of the pro's to check out the car... i don't think pictures will help alot :)

thx for all the advice though :)

Yep, he has, I'm meeting him on monday to pick it up. Good idea about the mind tricks, I'll keep that in mind :sneaky:

Even with the pivots screwed in too far, the arms will move ok, but won't move as far, i.e. for a droop of +7mm the arms may not drop down far enough for the droop screw to reach the chassis.


You mean the rear up right (802330) is angled front-to-rear when viewed from the side? Have you got the roll-centre inserts at the same way up front and rear? And are they the same way around as on the right-hand side of the car?
That's a strange problem!!

Ok, let us know how it turns out :nod:

I understand that :) That's not the problem, for sure! The 'not so free movement' was there when the pivot's wheren't even installed :)

roll-centre inserts are equal, geh, it doesn't fit if you put them in wrong :)
the rear up right is idd angeld to the read, the top pivot is more to the rear then i should...
i've been trying stuff, and when i losen 802311 the arm moves freely (well, more freely, not realy how you want it to go, there is a small hick-up when the arm is elevated to the top). When i tighten 802311 (with the screws going into 802310 the movement is restricted somehow...

The arms are oke now, i can race with it, but it definitly isn't a good sign....

btw http://www.mytsn.com/products/dnlfil...deSAMPLE%2Epdf
for the reference guide, since you'll need it will all those numbers :)

I hear that the arm movement has always been a problem, and the 705 was a pain in the ass to get working correctly.. why is this so hard to do correct for serpent?

new shocks on 960?
 

Pst, new shocks.... http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=11216

Sounds like you've got something twisted somewhere - I would take the whole assembly apart if I were you and carefully check for any broken parts.

If you have the full car assembled and the rear up-right is angled, there is something seriously wrong.

The 710 goes together very easily, so it is all the more confusing that you've got such a strange problem there.

Cheers, Mark.

Swwwwwwwwoooooooooooooosssssssssssssshhhhhhhhhh!!! !!!!!!!

well yes, but the rear part of the car is extremely complex compared to other cars.... i'll ask people at the dutch nationals to look at it... since rene cornelle drives there i don't think i won't find anybody who can't fix it :D


uhuh! :P
wonder when they will release those.. rickV and some other dutch guys are already racing with them for quite a while now...

SERPENT 960
 

just wanted to let u guys know that the SERPENT 960 is coming!!!

I don't agree with you there - what do you find so compex? The only real difference to other cars is the DRS arm - you get more setup options with the inserts than most cars - but this doesn't make it complex.

hmm, complex is the wrong werd i gues... look at all the parts used for the 710 rear (just count the parts), and then check another car... there are so many parts, and every part has a fitting to the other, witch eventually fails to fit perfectly... that's just what i notice when i build the car and talk to other racers.. maybe i'm just to clumsy for a 710 ?!

Don't listen too much to others - work on the car and learn to understand it - as you work more on the car, you'll see how simple and easy the design is. This simplicity allows you to remove the diff in a minute or so - not many other cars allow this. You'll also thank the design when you wreck a few parts during the race weekend - they can be quickly and easily change....and what's more, they just fit!

I doubt you're too clumsy for the car - as I say, just take some time to get to know it and you're problems will soon disapear :nod:

Cheers, Mark.

well, the thing is.. the design is nice, i was very happy with it.. and i do believe it's a good car.. but some things, like the fitting of the arms and the free movement is something that serpent has always had... and it's less with the 710, but it still has some things that remind me of what i hear from 'the past'.... and what i remember from my 705...


it's annoying me that i just can't screw it together and it's all free... it's never been that case with my car.. and then i hear other brands not having that problem... and the diff removal is nice, but i don't use that to often, why should i, the diff is adustable from the outside....

the people i listen to are good at R/C racing and do know what they are talking about, it's not just braging about there own brand, but saying what's 'not so good' about the car and the brand (serpent in general).. maybe we hear more negative things about serpent here in the netherlands.. don't know...
now serpent is changing a lot, there's new shocks coming, the 960 comming and there are still other parts in development for the 710, then there is some news about serpent that makes me happy (can't tell what i think...), the news we hear at the mach track is very nice, but it will take long before we (the customer) see result of it... and i know it takes long to develop something, but waiting for new stuff you want/need just sucks!

ohwell, just ranting i gues.. sometimes the hobby frustrates a bit don't you think?

There must be a problem with your car, as I've never had this with the 710 - everything fits perfectly. I've built two kits from scratch and I've replaced many parts on each car and never, never have I had a situation where the fit wasn't perfect.

The diff is just and example - the whole car is like this - you can take particular items off the car without having to disassemble the whole car. The RRR is like this too, but building it was a lot more difficult than the 710 - none of the arms dropped freely and I spent many hours working on the RRR until everything worked as it should.

Well, I don't bother listening to people who tell me what's not good about my car - I let my experience tell me what's good and what's not - I couldn't care less what the other guy thinks. I hear people complaining about different things at races and at the track the whole time - most of the time, the ones complaining are the problems themselves.

The very reason I stick with Serpent lies within you above statement: development! Which ever car it is, you know they are constantly working to make the car better than it already is. We've had the chassis and the 21T front pulley already this year, which really improved the car a lot. Now there are some improved shocks coming, too. Maybe at one time Serpent was different and maybe this is why some people have bad opinions about them - I've only been in RC for 2.5 years, so my experience is still limited - but today I see a company who listens to me and wants to know my opinion about its products - they give me feedback and have a huge resource of information which helps me get the most out of my car. I don't know another company which provides this service to their customers.

Of course each hobby can be frustrating, as you mentioned - and this is something you have to live with - everyone is frustrated at some point, but then when its good, its really good!! and the good outweighs the bad by a long way :nod:

My first kit to build from scratch was my 710, it took me 2 days and then I had a shiny new car that Fmolzer rated as "good built" :)

I would try disassembling the rear of car, and then rebuilding it as the manual says, then you shouldn't have any trouble..

we need pics!!!!

Thanks for your remarks Mark...

i do agree that serpent is giving feedback, what can i say, i get the latests new hot stuff from the mach track... witch is very cool!

i do think there's something wrong with my car:) it's second hand, and that might be the problem, but i bought it from a team racer, so i don't think that's the real problem....

when things just don't work it's frustrated...and nearly everything is turned into a dark perspective...

let's hope this weekend racing is good, it will probably clear my mind, thanks for all your respons mark!

Exactly - you have an even better situation than myself - you can go and ask Rene, Julius, Rick, etc directly - that really can't get any better!

Well as a first step, just disassemble the rear end and then carefully put it back together - if this doesn't solve it then get on of the serpent pros to have a look at it - I'm sure the problem will be solved very quickly.

Yo! But don't let the little set backs spoil your fun - remain positive and always move on and learn from your experiences even if they were negative.

Cheers, Mark.

Sow and all you british drivers i hope everybodys ok :eek:

london
 

thanks my family lives around the corner (edgware road) from the bombing they are fine. just shock up.

Brett, thanks mate. To be honest, am extremely lucky because I just changed office. Only last month, my daily routine would have put me smack bang in the tube station at that time (9am) ...

Well, today was race day, 'master julius' looked at it, and pointed me to the 'not standard' screws in the bottom.... he told me that the lengthe of the screws are important because they might touch each other, witch deformes the plastics...

Now, my race went rather well, we have 2 classes, one Dutch National championship, and another class where the beginners race.. i was in that last class and ended up first :-)

Julius also won his race, and well, the last dutch national race will be very exiting, if julius wins he's champion, if another guy (Jordy Blok) wins, he's champion... can't wait!!!1

We're not worthy http://www.3hobby.net/images/blocks/...x/icon_bow.gif we're not worthy http://www.3hobby.net/images/blocks/...x/icon_bow.gif :lol:

lol,

The hole Dutch National class has s710's in it, and only one mugen mtx3... it's a shame :)

i love my 710 box stock its a winner, change the springs and its even better.

i was reading around the MyTSN website. and all of a sudden i see s710. is this just a car with more options? like that long servo saver arm and new adjustable diff collar? or does s710 merely mean Serpent 710?

sorry just not too sure about it. ;)

anyways, how is that new diff collar and how do people like that long servo saver arm? ive yet to try them, but one of the hobby shops i go to normally showed me these new options, but i didnt want to buy something i mightve not liked. any feedback?

it just means serpent 710. but definitely try the new servo saver. it helps a lot. also, i would modify the front shock position. you can put spacers on the front shock tower to move it forward a tad and then mount the shocks on the backside of the tower. this makes the shocks more horizontal so they will be a tad stronger. hope this helps. very good car.

This was the case on the 705, it really made the car better.. i still have the spacers used on the 705, so that will work on the 710 too?
Gues i need to make that 3th bodypost-hole in the body bigger :P

wait a second, you mean make the shocks stronger as a whole? as in strength of the shock shaft etc.? or or you mean strength of the dampening force of the shock?

clarify please. :)

i do not know for sure if the spacers from the 705 will work or not, but they probably will do.

i mean the shock shaft will be stonger. it will be less prone to break. this is how probably all the team drivers have their cars set up.

The shocks are less prone to breaking when you mount them like Joe suggests, as they are no longer at a slight angle, where they are already under a slight bit of stress. If you then have a frontal crash, it doesn't take much to snap the rods.
Mounting the shocks so they are no longer angled helps reduce the chance that the rods will snap in a frontal crash.
I find that the shock action is also somewhat improved.

Cheers, Mark.

it doesn't fit :)
The spacer fits, but the shocks can't be mounted in the lowest hole...

Why not? It works fine for me with the Impulse spacers, and I'll guess that they are the same as the 705 ones? Have you tried turning them so that the flanged side is at the diff-side?

Edit: I realized that I may not be talking about the same spacers as you do.. My bad :rolleyes:

You never use the lowest hole anyway.

I find the spacers look bad. I grind the plastic top part one mm thinner to get a little more clearance. I never broke a shock shaft. And yes I do crash sometimes (and when I do it's mostly big ones....) :sweat:

The new shocks fit better. They don't need reworking to have some free movement.

The new shocks as in the new 960 shocks? Or just the shockmod?

You mean on the 705? I removed the spacers and trimmed the top-bumper-mount.... worked fine and the shocks where easyer to unmount (3mm in front in stead of back)

Lets just hope you keep your crashing to you after work hobbies!!

:D