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Originally posted by mikemyers To 'initiald' - no, that link doesn't work. There are 20 or so photos, and the images are all in item #5 in the conference. Item #3 was removed a week or so ago. To get there, just go to rc-racing.com, then to the conferences, then to the 'onroad' conference, and they'll all be in item #5. This particular car was built by the factory, so it's a good set of photos of what the finished car ought to look like. |
710
Originally posted by redsand mike, anyone run the 710 in miami yet ? i was over at the grid earlier this week checking out the 710 forum, and all of the sudden anyone there was gone.. |
Originally posted by InitialD I think that we need to wait for Goldfinger's report.:nod: I think if everything went right, he ran his car about a few hours ago. |
the car sooooo many little pieces, its going to take some time to get mine put together,
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Originally posted by InitialD Cool idea. :nod: Very devious indeed ! :lol: :lol: :lol: Ummm, but the wifey also does not know about the 705 conversion kit ! :eek: :lol: Anyway, the problem is how do you expect me to do dissapearing magic act with 3 cars?:eek: :cry: |
710 Availability
Evlhdlts,
I saw that Atomic Hobbies website was updated as of yesterday, and it says that they have them in stock. Try giving them a call. I think they are out of Miami as well. |
Atomic is out of Miami and they do, or at least they did yesterday, have them in stock.
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do they have a website?
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ok.. good.
thanks a lot :) |
Originally posted by Pyramid You should start building and use it for the upcoming race:nod: it's a whole new world... yet, still many to discover Its totally different car... It is quite dissapointing in my 1st track test coz the track quite dusty. My track is considering very technical and the"out of box" setup with 40F/40R uncut tire was not satisfy me, too much roll and very slow in chicanes. But I do notes that the car handling does not change so much as the tires wear down or making a small droop change. After couple of tanks, I made this change: - change the piston to have 2 hole FR+RR, better !! and after - raising the lower arm position - compensate the upper link to make more neg. camber in the rear (around 4 deg) ... now we in bussines!!! the rear is holds very well in fast chicane. And tomorrow we going to add more traction in front. For those who wants to max out the car in your 1st test, pls read carefully page 16,17 and 24,25 in small setup book. This will saves your time alot. The most stupid thing you can do is forget this book in your 1st test, like I do :cry: :cry: |
hhhmmmmmm
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Originally posted by brianlt27 Atomic is out of Miami and they do, or at least they did yesterday, have them in stock. |
Is anybody using Futaba servo's:
I can't get the steering servo right; i have more travel steering left than right and also the link from the servo to the servo saver almost touches the front belt! Is this because Serpent only drives Sanwa? Stil its the only problem i found! Nice CAR (ok 1 more little problem: hole of the front shockmounting are to small) |
cost
guys, how much does the kit cost? tnx........
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Buboy, kamusta na dyan pre ?
The lowest I've seen so far here in the US is $360. |
re:cost
Originally posted by nad138 Buboy, kamusta na dyan pre ? The lowest I've seen so far here in the US is $360. |
Originally posted by Schrijver99 Is anybody using Futaba servo's: I can't get the steering servo right; i have more travel steering left than right and also the link from the servo to the servo saver almost touches the front belt! Is this because Serpent only drives Sanwa? Stil its the only problem i found! Nice CAR (ok 1 more little problem: hole of the front shockmounting are to small) |
I got mine for about 380 USD but it came with a free protoform dodge 2.1 (i know i know .. *YAWN*) and a box of christmas cookies from the LHS... :rolleyes: :D
The frnt tower holes: Ya i had to thread my way through them... didn't seem to fray the graphite though. Hmm.. speaking of fraying... Does serpent graphite require superglue or epoxy arnd the edges to make it long lasting??? (.. InitialD : sURely you're prepared to do this as well!! :sneaky: ) And oh yah, just thought i'd say this as well: I can finally put my favorite rims - Speedmind foamies - on a Serpent car!! Hah hah!! (okok.. i could do this with the LC conversion previously.. but that was just insanely expensive!:flaming: ) |
front diff gear missing
Just got my kit today and the front one way units drive gear in wrong.It is suppose to be a 35 tooth gear with hexagonal cut out in center to slide over one way.What I got has a round hole that wont go over one way plus it has 3 pins sticking out of it that look like what is used for the rear diff.I have gone thru complete kit and it is not there.Waiting for access to my tsn web site forums so I figured I would post here and see what kind of advice I might get
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Originally posted by Pyramid With the S710 servo layout, the best is to use Futaba S9550. Most likely not balance left/right is due to servo horn and the plastic ballcup touching each other (turns right if not mistaken). Just use 2mm spacer in between that connection. SN |
Originally posted by pineapplet The frnt tower holes: Ya i had to thread my way through them... didn't seem to fray the graphite though. No need for superglue round the edges of the graphite. |
Re: front diff gear missing
Originally posted by Rebal Just got my kit today and the front one way units drive gear in wrong.It is suppose to be a 35 tooth gear with hexagonal cut out in center to slide over one way.What I got has a round hole that wont go over one way plus it has 3 pins sticking out of it that look like what is used for the rear diff.I have gone thru complete kit and it is not there.Waiting for access to my tsn web site forums so I figured I would post here and see what kind of advice I might get |
Originally posted by Pyramid With the S710 servo layout, the best is to use Futaba S9550. Most likely not balance left/right is due to servo horn and the plastic ballcup touching each other (turns right if not mistaken). Just use 2mm spacer in between that connection. |
Should you grease the ball diff
The instruction doesn't say but should you grease the diff rings?
The 705 instructions are the same in regards to building the diff and they don't show putting grease on the diff rings. All it shows is greasing the thrust bearings only? Can anyone elaborate about setting up the diff. I'm not sure about the part where you tighten the screw. I tighten the screw and while holding both outdrives I try to turn the pulley. I set mine to where you can turn it with some force. After that I use the grub screw to hold it in place. |
missing gear
Yes it is a 35 tooth gear and yes I also have the 45 tooth for rear.Stange it seems.Maybe this is the gear you will need if you install a diff in front as I can,t imagine using it in the rear.
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Originaly posted by Gold Finger... now we in bussines!!! the rear is holds very well in fast chicane. And tomorrow we going to add more traction in front. Congrats on your new ride :sneaky: , but that's it, how about aceleration, top end, :confused:, A lot of building process have been made and talk around here, did anybody else have test the car yet??,, seems that the car have no bugs in the building process, that's awsome:eek: so lets see now in the track:sneaky: Ciao!! |
Originally posted by S710_Nut I think i am right in saying the S9550 is a low profile digital servo? Spec wise how does it compare too the S9451? I think they also have metal reinforcing on the case? SN Schrijver99.. you must put 2mm in between when using S9550 on your 710 and it will not touching the belt. Actually the front belt is already touching carbon upper deck as well as the lower chassis as you could see the smear on its print right after 3 tanks (standard front belt tension setup) |
Alternative antenna mnt...
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When i placed my sanwa rx311 into the rx box, i had to face the crystal and connectors inwards and towards the front of the car.. that meant the antenna wire would exit from the rear and travel to the frnt to use the antenna mount...
Sooo.. i cut a small piece of fibre and made two holes (countersunk the bottom one or there won't be enuff space for the screw head). Dunno about other guys, but i've had 3 cm of extra antenna height make the diff btwn glitching when 9 other antennas are beside me on the stand.. :D Also, i've always liked these types of antenna mnts.. you can pick up the car by them! (though thats not a good practice..) |
10% done..
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About another 90% left... I.E. figuring out the set-up, troubleshooting, learning to drive the damn thing... :p
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Originally posted by Julius It's done on purpose. It's to keep the screws in place when you take off the front shocks. No need for superglue round the edges of the graphite. |
holy crap, reading this thread is a B.I.G pain for me as my 710 might get delayed a week or so.
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Re: missing gear
Originally posted by Rebal Yes it is a 35 tooth gear and yes I also have the 45 tooth for rear.Stange it seems.Maybe this is the gear you will need if you install a diff in front as I can,t imagine using it in the rear. |
Re: Should you grease the ball diff
Originally posted by JustRace The instruction doesn't say but should you grease the diff rings? The 705 instructions are the same in regards to building the diff and they don't show putting grease on the diff rings. All it shows is greasing the thrust bearings only? Can anyone elaborate about setting up the diff. I'm not sure about the part where you tighten the screw. I tighten the screw and while holding both outdrives I try to turn the pulley. I set mine to where you can turn it with some force. After that I use the grub screw to hold it in place. The way you have set the diff is correct. To be sure of the setting check if you need a considerable amount of force to make the diff slip when you try and turn the first gear of the 2-speed while holding the rear wheels. |
Originally posted by Schrijver99 A'm afraid that if i use a 2mm spacer the ballcup will touch the belt, maybe if i position the servo on the outside (rightside) of the servo holder it will work, but i have the 9450 servo's and they are the normal profiel and not the low profiel. |
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Originally posted by Julius Any picture available? now my link is only 40mm and my servo saver is in centre with the car. |
Also i've adjusted the servohorn, so that it's 90 degrees with the servo link and not the servo.
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Originally posted by Pyramid Yes, this is the low profile one. S9451 is stronger as it has 9kg of torque while S9550 is at 6kg and both are metal gears. I've been using S9550 on S705 and it will break your servo horn only on a hard impact (until the front pivot ball came out of front knuckle).. meaning the 6kg of 9550 is more than enough. Or the servo horn is too weak:lol: Schrijver99.. you must put 2mm in between when using S9550 on your 710 and it will not touching the belt. Actually the front belt is already touching carbon upper deck as well as the lower chassis as you could see the smear on its print right after 3 tanks (standard front belt tension setup) |
has anyone ran this car? how dose it perform?
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Originally posted by Schrijver99 Also i've adjusted the servohorn, so that it's 90 degrees with the servo link and not the servo. |
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