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Old 03-02-2004, 08:34 PM   #5056
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So what are you saying "D"? That you wouldn't mill out the chassis because more pebbles could get caught between the belt and the chassis?
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:09 PM   #5057
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Sow&Steady... good tought.. I tought about it at first but then I choose to cut until middle because of 2 reasons. First, you will have less strength, second (not too important) it will be too close with batery mount.... I would be worrying more when small rocks jamming my pulleys. Anyhow, I guess what we all looking for are the same, solution for scrubing front belt.

PS: After installed, I come to think that not cutting the second part (the one until middle)... it might me OK, no rubs I guess.
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:19 PM   #5058
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Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
So what are you saying "D"? That you wouldn't mill out the chassis because more pebbles could get caught between the belt and the chassis?
Well, it was just my opinion. In reality sometimes it could work out different.

Perhaps like what Pyramid mentioned, just mill out the middle part and leave the chassis part nearest to the 19T pulley and bearing block untouched.
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:22 PM   #5059
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
Anyhow, I guess what we all looking for are the same, solution for scrubing front belt.
Talking about belt rubbings, I think what Team Serpent drivers in Holland do just that to get the belt friction lower on their car ! I think the tip was in the 950 thread on mytsn forum. They use sandpaper to rub off a little bit of the "skin" of the Kevlar belt to make them more flexible. They also soak them with silicone lube or some belt dressing spray that you can get from auto shop.

Other tips to make the car more free rolling is to put some lube at the main shaft and middle shaft where the bearings are to lessen the friction. This at the same time protects the shafts from being slowly worned out and "cut" by the 6x13x5 bearings.

Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
PS: After installed, I come to think that not cutting the second part (the one until middle)... it might me OK, no rubs I guess.
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:29 PM   #5060
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Quote:
Originally posted by racer x 1
hey Do you think you guys can post some pictures of your 710s. cause i still haven't got any good pictures of one yet.
You will have to wait until Friday Pics!
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:32 PM   #5061
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What kind of lube for the main shaft and middle shaft? What lube do you guys use on your on-road cars for the pillowballs, hingepins and such??
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:37 PM   #5062
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Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
What kind of lube for the main shaft and middle shaft? What lube do you guys use on your on-road cars for the pillowballs, hingepins and such??
For pillow balls and hinge pins, you can use fine graphite grease. For the main shaft and middle shaft, I use a dap of silicone shock oil !

You can also use Serpent's Bearing Lube Oil 1682 for lubing purpose of those parts and also on the dogbones.
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:40 PM   #5063
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Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
What kind of lube for the main shaft and middle shaft? What lube do you guys use on your on-road cars for the pillowballs, hingepins and such??
What D stated is correct........
Shock lube or any kind of grease will do for the piviotballs and hingepins.

As for the main shaft or middle shaft use bearing lube.


*edit*
I'm to slow for the master D!!
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:46 PM   #5064
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Thanks guys. what are you guys using for a on/off switch for your cars? Are you using that KO Propo push butting thing? Isn't the KO Propo a two wire plug and aren't all Serpent batteries a 3 wire plug? How do you make them work together? Also probably a good idea to run a failsafe as well?
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:55 PM   #5065
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hey Supermaxxrich

you can buy a switch locally at GH, they sell good ones for cheap
And yes, if your radio does not have PCM mode, buy a failsafe. Many inconsiderate people here like to turn on their radios randomly without clips on their attenas
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:56 PM   #5066
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I have a M8 radio. Does that have a PCM Mode???
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:57 PM   #5067
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I'm using a micro switch with a PCM radio (3PK) that has a built-in failsafe. I would suggest to you to get a failsafe for your nitro car.

The 5-cell battery from Serpent may appear to have 3 wires but it actually have only 2.......positive and negative.
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:59 PM   #5068
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Are the switches that GH sell really good? When I had my NTC3 I didn't have a fail safe and after the straight at Apollo there is the right corner and as I was on that corner someone turned there radio on and it sent my car flying over the curb and about 5 feet inthe air! Brken pillowballs and cvds and shock tower. Man was I pissed! All he had to say was sorry You could tell he didn't even mean it. If my friend wasn't there I would have shoved his car right up his @$$!!!!
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Old 03-02-2004, 10:09 PM   #5069
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man thats sad

Is the switche good...?..... Well, i dont know, switches are switches for me...i had one for my on road before and my 2 touring cars and never had a problem. Plus, they are quite cheap, and they also have an extra plug for charging the battery, although i think the others should have this function as well.

yeah , failsafe is definitely a must. You can buy the KO one, they seem to be the best if im not mistaken.

good luck
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Old 03-02-2004, 10:17 PM   #5070
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Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
I'm to slow for the master D!!
Don't worry. I'm only fast on the forum ! As long as you're faster on the track, you should not have to worry too much !
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