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Old 02-22-2004, 09:24 AM   #4726
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I will check out the faq section. Did you guys take a look at this new bumper for the 710? Do you think its worth the $$?
http://shop.the-border.nl/customer/p...cat=538&page=1
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Old 02-22-2004, 09:43 AM   #4727
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Yeah, getting the tweak is difficult at first, as you have to be meticulous about each step to ensure that everything is set correctly. But the transformation once you get it right is worth the effort.

The bumper looks quite interesting! Only with it being made from Carbon fibre then it won't absorb the energy of a crash, but will rather transfer it to other parts of the car. Difficult to say if this would be a good thing or not.
As far as I'm aware Serpent's upgraded bumper will still be made from a plastic and will therefore have some energy absorbing characteristics - a question really for Rene, Julius or one of the other Serpent guys.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 02-22-2004, 10:37 AM   #4728
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
Do you mean as in bent or crooked?
If everything is exactly the same and symmetrical like your springs and shock shafts and stabilizer bars.

Then yeah, your chassis bay be went ever so slightly, where its hard to see.

Another thing to try is to take your wheels off and put your car on a flat surface where only the chassis is touching it. If you can rock it, its tweaked.
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Old 02-22-2004, 12:24 PM   #4729
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Mark, where is your FAQ section?
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Old 02-22-2004, 12:36 PM   #4730
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Quote:
Originally posted by clmbia45
Mark, where is your FAQ section?
I post the FAQ in the forum, so if you use the search facility and click the button "show results as posts" with the search criteria 710 FAQ, you'll find it.

Here is the last posting:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...FAQ#post729512
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Old 02-22-2004, 12:37 PM   #4731
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
That's the one when I was in the Shah Alam race!
There were 2 Shah Alam races ! The one you went was the 2nd one. The 1st one got rained out. I believe the race in Andalas somehow managed to finish early because of lesser racers and got to run all your mains...
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Old 02-22-2004, 12:42 PM   #4732
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
I will check out the faq section. Did you guys take a look at this new bumper for the 710? Do you think its worth the $$?
http://shop.the-border.nl/customer/p...cat=538&page=1
It would withstand a few more crashes but once broken, 21 EURO flies out of the window ! Ouch !
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Old 02-22-2004, 12:45 PM   #4733
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
Crack my front bumper and lost my front pulley belt as well as the pulley up front. I think it has to do with the car flipping too much
How is that possible? I thought the track you run on is pretty clean?
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Old 02-22-2004, 12:48 PM   #4734
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Default Re: On Throttle Understeer

Quote:
Originally posted by redsand
The car still can't keep its line tight accelerating out of corners (high speed corners).
Have you tried putting shims (from stock 2 mm to 4 mm) under the front upper arm to make the front roll center lower?

Other things you could try is to make the front suspension softer or take off the front sway bar. Else, the only other thing I can think of is to use one grade softer front tires... Are you using tires from the kit or your own tires? What shore?

I have a suspicion that your rear shocks could be too soft that the chassis weight transfer dumps to the rear the minute you put the gas down. I'm assuming you're using kit springs (yellow) and shock oil from the kit (30wt). Try angling one or two holes up on the rear shock tower to make the rear shocks more vertical.
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Old 02-22-2004, 01:02 PM   #4735
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
The only thing I can think of is maybe the shocks compression or rebound could be off? Maybe I need to rebuild the shocks There are too many things that could be wrong so maybe someone can shine some light
Ummm, I just shooting here but I hope you used the same rear tire diameters left and right !

Do like what I did. I found out that the rear lower arms would give a unbalanced lifting (shocks off, sway bar off) left and right in the rear. I think it was the droop screws or the arms. I checked the droop gauge (measure at the bottom of the rear knuckles) and both left and right measured the same but did not pass the lifting test. So I fixed one side of the arm droop and adjusted the opposite droop screw on the other arm until both left and right of the rear tires lifted at the same time. This is without shocks or sway bar attached.

After getting the droop equal, I connected the rear sway bar on. It did not pass the lift test. I adjusted the length of the connecting rods until both left and right lifted at the same. This is without shocks. Then the shocks were fitted with and without sway bars on and the spring pre-tension adjusted. This is assuming your shocks are equal in rebound and in length.

All these lift testings were done when the front part of the chassis was on a solid block to make sure that the rear was NOT under the influence of the front shocks or the front tires.

I think why you and I are not getting equal droop doing the lift test is because of slight manufacturing tolerances in the sway bar, the rear arms and the building of the shocks does add up a little.
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Old 02-22-2004, 01:35 PM   #4736
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Thanks Mark.
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Old 02-22-2004, 03:15 PM   #4737
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Default Spanish Championship

For your records. The first round of the Spanish National Championship for 1/10th Nitro just finished, this time Mugen TQ'd but Serpent won.................

1 JAVIER HIDALGO, SERPENT 710, NOVAMEGA KHM
2 JORGE DELGADO, MUGEN MTX-3, RB RODY ROEM MR (TQ)
3 CARLOS PERACHO, SERPENT 710, JP/NOVAROSSI S3 RACE

Congratulations to SERPENT fans.

AFM
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Old 02-22-2004, 07:39 PM   #4738
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
How is that possible? I thought the track you run on is pretty clean?
I dont know how the hell it came loose. But for sure the front plastic pulley just stripped away so thats how the belt came off as well. It was weird because the front pulley was all eaten up and one of the casing was left. Lost the E clip and the pulley that was touching it. Maybe my engine is too stong
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Old 02-22-2004, 07:56 PM   #4739
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Ummm, I just shooting here but I hope you used the same rear tire diameters left and right !

Do like what I did. I found out that the rear lower arms would give a unbalanced lifting (shocks off, sway bar off) left and right in the rear. I think it was the droop screws or the arms. I checked the droop gauge (measure at the bottom of the rear knuckles) and both left and right measured the same but did not pass the lifting test. So I fixed one side of the arm droop and adjusted the opposite droop screw on the other arm until both left and right of the rear tires lifted at the same time. This is without shocks or sway bar attached.

After getting the droop equal, I connected the rear sway bar on. It did not pass the lift test. I adjusted the length of the connecting rods until both left and right lifted at the same. This is without shocks. Then the shocks were fitted with and without sway bars on and the spring pre-tension adjusted. This is assuming your shocks are equal in rebound and in length.

All these lift testings were done when the front part of the chassis was on a solid block to make sure that the rear was NOT under the influence of the front shocks or the front tires.

I think why you and I are not getting equal droop doing the lift test is because of slight manufacturing tolerances in the sway bar, the rear arms and the building of the shocks does add up a little.
Thanks for the tip D Will play around with it once I have time. My friend borrowed my tool box so im left with no tools except a car to stare at
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Old 02-22-2004, 07:56 PM   #4740
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Hi guys, need some confirmation on who is correct about the DRS arm thing. This is from the here
Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I rest my case. I do not need to reset my rear toe in when I change my ride height. My Hudy prisms do not show that I need to change my toe in when I change my ride height. This is going from 5 mm to 8 mm of rear ride height. I set my rear toe in to +2. My DRS setting is set at above level (i.e. toes in when the chassis is lifted and toes out when chassis is compressed).
or
Quote:
Originally posted by rcsabah
i also set my 710 DRS to above level it will toe out when compress
ride height does change the toe deg.
Can you guys tell me which is right? this is not a test! coz I am trying to understand how the DRS thing works. Julius your comments? Thanks.

Last edited by spawn; 02-22-2004 at 08:45 PM.
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