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Old 02-09-2004, 12:46 AM   #4126
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 710 shock tower

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Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Haven't built the second one yet ... that one will be the lightest car seen this side of town ... just watch!
Just make sure you opt for the plastic composite shocks ! Not the aluminum ones.

Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
What??? TiTi is a wide open track my friend ... you hit a mosquito or what?
I tried to flip the car and hit the mosquito on the curb ! Too tempting but later I found out it was too costly !
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Old 02-09-2004, 12:52 AM   #4127
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Originally posted by InitialD
The thing is if you go to places like Thailand to race, the tables are turned as everybody there has a 710 !
Well, Mark Green is a factory driver and after seeing him, he is a very good driver to boot. So when he said what he said, he is making two fundamental assumption .. that the driving skill is equal and the engine/pipe performance is equal.

Bangkok was full of local drivers who only paly at that rack or are very familiar with it. Also they were all using highly tuned Rody V12s or Max's, not to mnetion the outlaw pipes. I remember asking you guys about the pipes allowed but there you go ... you all got slaughtered!

Like you said in one of your posts ... it was a big mistake to go there without getting to know your car first which is the same reasoning I used to decide to cancel my trip!
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Old 02-09-2004, 12:57 AM   #4128
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Default Re: Shopping list

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Hi Guys,

Which RX unit would give the least problems in terms of fitting for the 710?

Any parts recommended which are useful in building the 710, i.e. greese, oils, items which didn't come with the kit? Not tool, though, should have plenty of those

Cheers, Mark.
Optional ventilated disc brake is usefull.

SER-808220 Impact front drive shaft (63mm) is also usefull to make your front track width at 199mm EXACTLY (with 2deg camber) without dog bones binding on wheel axle.

50mm Yokomo or alike Titanium turnbuckle for front steering as the original one is a little short and smaller thread.

Shims 0.1mm (3mm Inner Diameter) in total of 0.9mm to use in between middle bracket and upper deck... read issues on previous posts.

Last but not least, even you mention a lot of tools you have, check and see if you have 2.5mm ball allen handy. It is use to remove engine from its mount; since you need to remove left bracket to installed the engine with its engine`s mount mounted.
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Old 02-09-2004, 01:11 AM   #4129
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Bangkok was full of local drivers who only paly at that rack or are very familiar with it. Also they were all using highly tuned Rody V12s or Max's, not to mnetion the outlaw pipes. I remember asking you guys about the pipes allowed but there you go ... you all got slaughtered!
Believe it or not, pipes used was nothing more than TP06 / Novarossi 52607 inline pipes. Modified engines used can be bought off the shelf. But that's besides the point. Thailand drivers were good. Equally good were drivers from HK as well. How do you explain them doing better also on a foreign track?

Not to brag or anything, my car was among the middle pack or if not faster than most on the straights. It's just that the other cars had more corner speed and of course the huge driving skill advantage !

Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Like you said in one of your posts ... it was a big mistake to go there without getting to know your car first which is the same reasoning I used to decide to cancel my trip!
As for me, I did not regret going. It was fun and surely an eye opener. In my opinion, it will only be a mistake when what you intend to achieve is not materialised.
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Old 02-09-2004, 01:16 AM   #4130
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Default Re: Re: Shopping list

Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
Optional ventilated disc brake is usefull.

SER-808220 Impact front drive shaft (63mm) is also usefull to make your front track width at 199mm EXACTLY (with 2deg camber) without dog bones binding on wheel axle.

50mm Yokomo or alike Titanium turnbuckle for front steering as the original one is a little short and smaller thread.

Shims 0.1mm (3mm Inner Diameter) in total of 0.9mm to use in between middle bracket and upper deck... read issues on previous posts.

Last but not least, even you mention a lot of tools you have, check and see if you have 2.5mm ball allen handy. It is use to remove engine from its mount; since you need to remove left bracket to installed the engine with its engine`s mount mounted.
What luck! I already have the vent'd disc and have a couple of Impact dog bones lying around.

I'll have to look back in the thread for the info regarding shimming the middle bracket.

Thanks for the info.
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Old 02-09-2004, 01:16 AM   #4131
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Pyramid: Would the 2.5 ball strong enough to unscrew the engine mounts ?
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Old 02-09-2004, 01:20 AM   #4132
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Originally posted by redsand
Pyramid: Would the 2.5 ball strong enough to unscrew the engine mounts ?
You're right. Especially if you have to do it slanted...

Personally, I would go the conventional way of taking off one of the side braces to take the engine off with the engine mount or if I do not want to take off the engine mount and want to leave it on the chassis, I'll take off the engine heatsink first before accessing the screws of the crankscase to engine mount.
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Old 02-09-2004, 01:40 AM   #4133
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Oh? Crashed ... you were there spying?
I wished I was coz it was a good day to see the snake under the hands of good pilots like yourself, uncle yap and riad. What i really wanted to see was one of you doing blistering times with a front one way...but i guess all of you opted for solids instead.

Now with the front ball diffs i guess the one way will be chucked away.
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Old 02-09-2004, 01:47 AM   #4134
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Default Droop!

Guys,

I have a question regarding droop? I run on concrete with rubber tyres on a bumpy surface.... Stock setup suggests a 7mm gap between front and rear droop (0mm frnt and 7mm rear) is it a good rule of thumb to stick too? Or what would be a good gap? I have been lacking mid corner steering, car has responded better by increasing the rear droop and reducing the rear droop, i still feel it could be better though.

SN
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Old 02-09-2004, 01:51 AM   #4135
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Quote:
Originally posted by crashed_1
What i really wanted to see was one of you doing blistering times with a front one way...but i guess all of you opted for solids instead.
Well, I think Sow&Steady mentioned why they used the solid front instead.

Quote:
Originally posted by crashed_1
Now with the front ball diffs i guess the one way will be chucked away.
Who says?
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Old 02-09-2004, 01:55 AM   #4136
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Quote:
Originally posted by crashed_1
I wished I was coz it was a good day to see the snake under the hands of good pilots like yourself, uncle yap and riad. What i really wanted to see was one of you doing blistering times with a front one way...but i guess all of you opted for solids instead.

Now with the front ball diffs i guess the one way will be chucked away.
Thing is with the one-way, it is so good under acceleration. The power is always given to the wheel which has most grip whereas a diff will always give the power to the wheel where least grip is.
This year I plan to control my breaking much better in an attempt to learn how to drive the one-way better.
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Old 02-09-2004, 01:55 AM   #4137
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Default Re: Droop!

Quote:
Originally posted by S710_Nut
Guys,

I have a question regarding droop? I run on concrete with rubber tyres on a bumpy surface.... Stock setup suggests a 7mm gap between front and rear droop (0mm frnt and 7mm rear) is it a good rule of thumb to stick too? Or what would be a good gap? I have been lacking mid corner steering, car has responded better by increasing the rear droop and reducing the rear droop, i still feel it could be better though.

SN
If I can remember from my rubber days , you need to have more droop with rubber tires. Less camber and softer spring / shock oil setup is also the way to go.

But if what you're saying about lacking mid corner steering is true, did you follow the preventive guide steps laid out in the table on page 33 of the 710 Setup Booklet?
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Old 02-09-2004, 02:02 AM   #4138
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Thing is with the one-way, it is so good under acceleration. The power is always given to the wheel which has most grip whereas a diff will always give the power to the wheel where least grip is.
This year I plan to control my breaking much better in an attempt to learn how to drive the one-way better.
Me too. It's nice to drive when there's not much traffic around. Things will turn haywire when you need to muscle your way thru traffic and just how to achieve that without using breaks on the corner still boggles me.

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Old 02-09-2004, 02:12 AM   #4139
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Default Re: Re: Droop!

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
If I can remember from my rubber days , you need to have more droop with rubber tires. Less camber and softer spring / shock oil setup is also the way to go.

But if what you're saying about lacking mid corner steering is true, did you follow the preventive guide steps laid out in the table on page 33 of the 710 Setup Booklet?
InitialD: I am looking at the book now... So i take it their is no set gap between the frnt and rear droop?
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Old 02-09-2004, 02:13 AM   #4140
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