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Old 01-28-2004, 07:54 PM   #3586
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Ammdrew...........because it is from you, I will give JR a try...how about throttle servo..? I have no problem whatsoever on anolog servo.....all 4 of my Futaba servos for my Serpent Impulse, PRO, IMpact and 835 for about 5 years now are still in perfect working order..........I don't see why I need to go to digital, but I would like to try one...thanks ammdrew and good luck on WIN-National and please give us the on-site report.
Rookie, an alternative to the JR (great servo in itself) is the Airtronics/Sanwa ERG-WRX line of digital servos. For throttle, if you really want an overkill servo that will last 100 years, try the Airtronics 94359Z. You can run enough dragbrake to stop a full scale Hummer with locked up wheels and the servo will not complain. For winternats coverage, check out our website. Ammdrew got this little wireless system going that should enable us to update from the pits...
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Old 01-28-2004, 08:22 PM   #3587
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well here's my newly built 710 next to his big brother 950R.
enjoy~~
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Old 01-28-2004, 08:24 PM   #3588
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now the only problem is to figure out how to use serpent starter box for 2 cars. any ideas?
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Old 01-28-2004, 08:58 PM   #3589
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Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
I read your PM about this but I'll answer here so all can benefit.

Most servos should fit without problems. Be aware the holes in the servo mount are larger than the screws so make sure the servo is as far "up" in the mount as possible. If you still have problems with it touching the chassis, take a little off the notches of the servo mount so the entire thing goes up a bit. As little as possible though!
The slope is due to the middle bracket shrinking slightly more than anticipated. It is about 0.9mm too low. That means about 0.5 degrees of slope in the radio tray. That is not an issue except for the cosmetics. Most likely we will make a small change in the mould so the top part will be 0.9mm higher. There is no need to shim the tray. Most likely you will no longer have the benefit of the centering function of the nylon protrusions. That will lead to a decrease in stiffness an may cause tweak in the chassis during racing.

In short: "It looks a little funny but that's it"

THE ABOVE WAS POSTED BY JULIUS

Actually, in the front, the bottom of the radio tray is 30.0 mm above my chassis upper surface. The vertical dimension of the middle support is 28.8 mm. Not a great difference from your figure, but if we're going to re-do it....
I considered your fix about trimming a little off the servo mount, but very difficult to do, and retain the nipple which provides the "centering function". I opted for placing an 0.8 mm shim on top of the middle support; it's still 0.4 mm short, but this allowed me to maintain the centering nipple. I made an @ 1 mm washer out of 5/32 OD brass tubing which fits over the screw and fills the hole in the radio tray above the nipple, to prevent the screw from working. Using the Futaba 9550 servo, I still had to remove some of the chassis below it to provide clearance.
This preserves the nylon nipple protrusions and their centering function. The side braces fit perfectly.
I have no idea whether any of this is necessary with other steering servos.
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Old 01-28-2004, 09:07 PM   #3590
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Who here has a non Serpent starter box that works with the 710?
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Old 01-28-2004, 09:21 PM   #3591
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
Who here has a non Serpent starter box that works with the 710?
The OFNA big starting box, with the motor sticking a couple of inches out the side is easy to modify, and has enough torque to handle new engines.
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Old 01-28-2004, 09:56 PM   #3592
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Quote:
Originally posted by n1technik
well here's my newly built 710 next to his big brother 950R.
enjoy~~
Nice pic, only problem is you have a big fat Mugen sticker in the middle of it!
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Old 01-28-2004, 10:52 PM   #3593
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hahaha eurokrn. hmmm maybe because you put it there?
i didn't even realized that till i saw that pic. lol.
now it's time for you to switch! get rid of that mooooogen.
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Old 01-28-2004, 11:45 PM   #3594
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
Who here has a non Serpent starter box that works with the 710?
Sure, why not?
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Old 01-28-2004, 11:46 PM   #3595
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Quote:
Originally posted by n1technik
now the only problem is to figure out how to use serpent starter box for 2 cars. any ideas?
N1, nice pics !

Have you tried using the Universal Positioning set (1510) on the Serpent starter box?
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Old 01-29-2004, 12:18 AM   #3596
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i've tried it. but won't work for both cars. if i get one right, the other one would be misaligned. i've tried giving one more room to play but still doesn't seem right.
well if everything fails, i can use euro's starter box for 710. :-p
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Old 01-29-2004, 12:28 AM   #3597
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Default Spares

I need some input guys. I've starting making a list of what parts I need to stock on in case...you know...the unexpected happens.... lol. Appreciate if you can give me part#s that you think are worthwhile to have spares off. Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-29-2004, 12:47 AM   #3598
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Quote:
Originally posted by nad138
I need some input guys. I've starting making a list of what parts I need to stock on in case...you know...the unexpected happens.... lol. Appreciate if you can give me part#s that you think are worthwhile to have spares off. Thanks in advance.
I posted the things I broke in a recent race which I think would benefit at the track if you want fast replacements.

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
During the race, I broke a few parts that I thought I would not have broken if it was a 705. The lower bumper (802205), upper bumper brace (802206) and one of the lower bearing blocks front (802213/14) when I clipped the boards. The arms and the pivot pin held up fine. Just that the part where the pivot pin is connected to the lower bearing block will be ripped apart. The steering knuckles are tough. Just that when you brush the walls, the steering knuckles will pop out from the pivot balls. So that means that the tendency of the dogbones (802332) and the one way driveshaft adaptors (802248) will get lost in that event.

Be careful that when you change the front aluminum spacers for roll centers. I managed to destroy the screw mounting of the 802215/16 upper bearing blocks front when I was rushing.

As for the rear, I can think only think of the rear lower arms (802318/19). For me, they did not break. The pivot ball just compressed into the threads and I got a rear toe out !

So, those were the things that broke for me. Your mileage may vary as you may break other parts as well.
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Old 01-29-2004, 12:54 AM   #3599
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Default Re: Spares

Quote:
Originally posted by nad138
I need some input guys. I've starting making a list of what parts I need to stock on in case...you know...the unexpected happens.... lol. Appreciate if you can give me part#s that you think are worthwhile to have spares off. Thanks in advance.

nad138, why are you stocking up? The list would depend on what you plan to do. That is to say, it is different requirements for going off to a distant race meeting for a week or going to live abroad in some remote land.

My recommended "spares tavel kit" should include a set of left front upper and lower arms (because we normally race clockwise and I tend to break my left sides), the 3 belts, some spur gears, pinions, clutch shoe and for the 710, the rear shock tower. There's other stuff needed but they are not part of the car's kit items.

These days though I take along 2 cars!
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Old 01-29-2004, 12:56 AM   #3600
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Quote:
Originally posted by nad138
I need some input guys. I've starting making a list of what parts I need to stock on in case...you know...the unexpected happens.... lol. Appreciate if you can give me part#s that you think are worthwhile to have spares off. Thanks in advance.
... oh, I would add a couple of those Aluminium pivot balls too.
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