Rookie, an alternative to the JR (great servo in itself) is the Airtronics/Sanwa ERG-WRX line of digital servos. For throttle, if you really want an overkill servo that will last 100 years, try the Airtronics 94359Z. You can run enough dragbrake to stop a full scale Hummer with locked up wheels and the servo will not complain. For winternats coverage, check out our website. Ammdrew got this little wireless system going that should enable us to update from the pits...

well here's my newly built 710 next to his big brother 950R.
enjoy~~

now the only problem is to figure out how to use serpent starter box for 2 cars. any ideas?

The slope is due to the middle bracket shrinking slightly more than anticipated. It is about 0.9mm too low. That means about 0.5 degrees of slope in the radio tray. That is not an issue except for the cosmetics. Most likely we will make a small change in the mould so the top part will be 0.9mm higher. There is no need to shim the tray. Most likely you will no longer have the benefit of the centering function of the nylon protrusions. That will lead to a decrease in stiffness an may cause tweak in the chassis during racing.

In short: "It looks a little funny but that's it"

THE ABOVE WAS POSTED BY JULIUS

Actually, in the front, the bottom of the radio tray is 30.0 mm above my chassis upper surface. The vertical dimension of the middle support is 28.8 mm. Not a great difference from your figure, but if we're going to re-do it....
I considered your fix about trimming a little off the servo mount, but very difficult to do, and retain the nipple which provides the "centering function". I opted for placing an 0.8 mm shim on top of the middle support; it's still 0.4 mm short, but this allowed me to maintain the centering nipple. I made an @ 1 mm washer out of 5/32 OD brass tubing which fits over the screw and fills the hole in the radio tray above the nipple, to prevent the screw from working. Using the Futaba 9550 servo, I still had to remove some of the chassis below it to provide clearance.
This preserves the nylon nipple protrusions and their centering function. The side braces fit perfectly.
I have no idea whether any of this is necessary with other steering servos.

Who here has a non Serpent starter box that works with the 710?

The OFNA big starting box, with the motor sticking a couple of inches out the side is easy to modify, and has enough torque to handle new engines.

Nice pic, only problem is you have a big fat Mugen sticker in the middle of it!

hahaha eurokrn. hmmm maybe because you put it there?
i didn't even realized that till i saw that pic. lol.
now it's time for you to switch! get rid of that mooooogen.

Sure, why not?

N1, nice pics !

Have you tried using the Universal Positioning set (1510) on the Serpent starter box?

i've tried it. but won't work for both cars. if i get one right, the other one would be misaligned. i've tried giving one more room to play but still doesn't seem right.
well if everything fails, i can use euro's starter box for 710. :-p

I need some input guys. I've starting making a list of what parts I need to stock on in case...you know...the unexpected happens.... lol. Appreciate if you can give me part#s that you think are worthwhile to have spares off. Thanks in advance.

I posted the things I broke in a recent race which I think would benefit at the track if you want fast replacements.

nad138, why are you stocking up? The list would depend on what you plan to do. That is to say, it is different requirements for going off to a distant race meeting for a week or going to live abroad in some remote land.

My recommended "spares tavel kit" should include a set of left front upper and lower arms (because we normally race clockwise and I tend to break my left sides), the 3 belts, some spur gears, pinions, clutch shoe and for the 710, the rear shock tower. There's other stuff needed but they are not part of the car's kit items.

These days though I take along 2 cars!

... oh, I would add a couple of those Aluminium pivot balls too.