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Old 01-19-2004, 02:47 AM   #3106
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Corrections... Not my mod. Credit must go out to Goldfinger and Schrijver99 for finding it out first !

Just make sure at neutral steering position, the steering servo horn should be about 90 degrees with the steering linkage that you shortened !
I think you are out bt 1/2 a mm? I got 39mm to get the sero saver horn pointing straight ahead and even throw left and right? I think i have it setup correctly now....

Just need my replacement thrust bearing too go test it now.

SN
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Old 01-19-2004, 02:54 AM   #3107
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
You lucky guy! That's a really nice track and if your setup described earlier worked then I'm noting it down!

Thanks for posting it ... am salivating!
Just try to lock(very tight) your ball diff, seems like my car having a drag brake in full turn of the wheel.
Thanks to Andrew.

Be carefull, I lock the rear ball diff but I need to dissamble it twice than I decide to put small drop of oil to smoother the ball.
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Old 01-19-2004, 03:03 AM   #3108
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Corrections... Not my mod. Credit must go out to Goldfinger and Schrijver99 for finding it out first !
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Old 01-19-2004, 03:07 AM   #3109
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Does it sound right????
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Old 01-19-2004, 06:19 AM   #3110
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Just try to lock(very tight) your ball diff, seems like my car having a drag brake in full turn of the wheel.
Thanks to Andrew.
Yup. The hard rear diff will act as a drag brake at the expense of tire wear.

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Be carefull, I lock the rear ball diff but I need to dissamble it twice than I decide to put small drop of oil to smoother the ball.
This is what I notice too. I put very little grease to cover the balls from the get go and is stays smooth till now. No gritty feeling. I tested Michael Salven's rear diff and it was a little gritty like metal to metal rubbing. I knew that no grease was used.

When you rebuild the rear diff and later on put grease on the balls, you will never get it smooth. The smoothness of the diff action it gives is just like the diff action I get from the 705 FPS diff. I think you need to grease it from the beginning when it is brand new. If not, it stays gritty even after you greased it.
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Old 01-19-2004, 06:22 AM   #3111
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Quote:
Originally posted by S710_Nut
I think you are out bt 1/2 a mm? I got 39mm to get the sero saver horn pointing straight ahead and even throw left and right? I think i have it setup correctly now....
Cool, good to know that you got yours corrected.

I guess I need to cut 0.5 mm more to get it perfect !

Quote:
Originally posted by S710_Nut
Just need my replacement thrust bearing too go test it now.
You burned your thrust bearing? Make sure they are greased and are installed correct (i.e. larger inner diameter first)
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Old 01-19-2004, 08:02 AM   #3112
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I think you need to grease it from the beginning when it is brand new. If not, it stays gritty even after you greased it.
Confirm on this tips!!
I feel that too. Last night I tear down and must replace to new balls and diff plate.
Only if you demand a super smooth friction from the diff.
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Old 01-19-2004, 08:22 AM   #3113
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
I feel that too. Last night I tear down and must replace to new balls and diff plate.
I think it's got something to do when the balls get flat spotted due to it being dry and getting compressed... The balls stay flat spotted even after you greased it. Just my theory...

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Only if you demand a super smooth friction from the diff.
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Old 01-19-2004, 08:41 AM   #3114
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I think it's got something to do when the balls get flat spotted due to it being dry and getting compressed... The balls stay flat spotted even after you greased it. Just my theory...
Yeah you right.
We need a harder "Balls".
What a shame that I miss my metalurgy classes..
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Old 01-19-2004, 08:48 AM   #3115
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Yeah you right.
We need a harder "Balls".
What a shame that I miss my metalurgy classes..


Say does anybody play XRay here and know if their carbide balls are the same size as the 710? I think these are the same balls that are used on the 705 ball diff.
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Old 01-19-2004, 09:16 AM   #3116
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD


Say does anybody play XRay here and know if their carbide balls are the same size as the 710? I think these are the same balls that are used on the 705 ball diff.
Check out Model Tech they do Ceramic Nitride Diff balls which should sort you out.

http://www.modeltech.co.uk/
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Old 01-19-2004, 10:45 AM   #3117
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Can someone tell me what exactly does the rear toe in adjustments do and what type of track it works best with? For instance have more toe in for better cornering? BTW whats with the 710 Dynamic Rear Steering (DRS), how does it work? Im builing my car at a friends house who also has a 710 so I dont have any manuals with me.
Thanks!
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Old 01-19-2004, 11:02 AM   #3118
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DRS alters the rear toe-in during different stages of the spring compression. When the car rolls to a side in the corner the rear wheels alter toe-in to effectively give 3 wheel steering for smoother faster cornering (outside wheel straightens more and inside wheel toes-in more)

On straights it also toes-out both wheels more to give the least friction of the tires to the ground which means faster straight line speeds and more freer rolling car.

Hope this helps
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Old 01-19-2004, 11:12 AM   #3119
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Thanks for the info But what about just the rear toe in adjustment? How should I set it up? Should I have it setup with 0 degree or with some negative toe in which is pointed inwards? The track I run at is quite big not very tight which is also suitable for 1/8. Most guys run 1/8 at my track.
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Old 01-19-2004, 11:43 AM   #3120
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anybody know how many spline teeth airtronics servos have? i can't tell if there are 23, 24 or 25....no horn is fitting.
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