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Old 01-12-2004, 11:34 AM   #2896
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Default centax

here is an new article on the 710 on mytsn ref the centax clutch spring

centax article
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Old 01-12-2004, 03:37 PM   #2897
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did anybody run ft. myers? how did it handle?
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Old 01-12-2004, 07:45 PM   #2898
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practise body is ready for Ft Myers..

car is ready..

motor is ready..

i am ready..

hope fredrik is ready..

lets race...!!!!!
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Old 01-12-2004, 08:04 PM   #2899
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Andrew, looking sharp.

That looks like the Stratus 1 bodyshell. I don't know what kind of track Ft Myers is but if there are any high speed cornerings to be Stratus 2.1 is more stable. Perhaps you may want to think on doing one up just in case. But then again, one man's meat is another's poison !
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Old 01-12-2004, 08:15 PM   #2900
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I have run Ft Myers before and I would not recommend the 2.1.. If you can not run the inside of the carousel, or hit the dogleg right.. double tap in the s you are 3 to 4 seconds off the pace.. I would start with muy 705 setup from last year.. it is on tsn....

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Old 01-12-2004, 08:19 PM   #2901
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Guys

I just got my 710 together and I have a ns12s5 in it, I want to do this right so Im asking you for a little breakin advice, I know many people do it in different ways and I just trying to find out the best way to do it. All I want to know is: Do you use a breakin fuel? or do you break the engine in with the same fuel that your going to be using in the car?
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Old 01-12-2004, 08:30 PM   #2902
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Quote:
Originally posted by ammdrew
practise body is ready for Ft Myers..

car is ready..

motor is ready..

i am ready..

hope fredrik is ready..

lets race...!!!!!
Looking good and definitely ready to race!

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Old 01-12-2004, 08:35 PM   #2903
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use the fuel you are going to race with....

recommend heat cycle the piston 3 to 4 times.. ie start the motor let idol until warm.. at least 185.. then shut off, move piston to bottom dead center , allow to cool completly.. repeat..

then begine the lapping process.. that is the run around for threee or four tanks with the motor rich and not putting a heavy load on the engine, and or the break in stand....
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Old 01-12-2004, 08:37 PM   #2904
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcjayy
Guys

I just got my 710 together and I have a ns12s5 in it, I want to do this right so Im asking you for a little breakin advice, I know many people do it in different ways and I just trying to find out the best way to do it. All I want to know is: Do you use a breakin fuel? or do you break the engine in with the same fuel that your going to be using in the car?
You're going to start a series of discussions on this because there are many camps on how to break-in engines.

Personally, I prefer to use the same fuel that I'm going to sue with the car. But then again that's just my personal preference.
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Old 01-12-2004, 09:16 PM   #2905
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Quote:
Originally posted by ammdrew
I have run Ft Myers before and I would not recommend the 2.1.. If you can not run the inside of the carousel, or hit the dogleg right.. double tap in the s you are 3 to 4 seconds off the pace.. I would start with muy 705 setup from last year.. it is on tsn....

That explains it perfectly, and that's where I was last year. I'll check TSN, and hope to do better this year!
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Old 01-12-2004, 09:25 PM   #2906
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Quote:
Originally posted by clmbia45
That explains it perfectly, and that's where I was last year. I'll check TSN, and hope to do better this year!
I couldn't find it on TSN.
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Old 01-12-2004, 09:51 PM   #2907
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Ran my 705 this past sat. and T.Q.'d and won the main. Modified ns12 and hand modified by Palmaris Racing. I finally learn my car ....now it's time for a 710.
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Old 01-12-2004, 09:59 PM   #2908
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pit-racer
Ran my 705 this past sat. and T.Q.'d and won the main. Modified ns12 and hand modified by Palmaris Racing. I finally learn my car ....now it's time for a 710.
Congratulations ... goes to show that a tamed and mastered 705 can still kick butt!
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Old 01-12-2004, 10:01 PM   #2909
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Tearing down the car after the weekend, for routine maintenance,
and could not remove the 2 speed clutch shoes.
Despite having torqued and using locktite on the grub screw the retaining pin had migrated to one side, locking the shoes in place. After removing the grub screw the pin was easily moved and the shoes came right out. I'm going to grind an indent on the pin to allow the grub screw to seat in the middle of the pin and not migrate.
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Old 01-12-2004, 10:06 PM   #2910
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Quote:
Originally posted by clmbia45
I couldn't find it on TSN.
http://www.mytsn.com/setups/setup.asp?sid=1552
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