Gee, let me think.....YES!

Harry, go to mytsn.com and look at the i-manual for the 710. The diffs are held in the car with bearing caps.

did you buy your car from RON?..

Bring that thing by and let me look at it..

No I did not buy it from Ron, I bought it from Bruckner. They are getting another shipment this week and I'm buying another one!

but how about the front mid shaft and 2 speed assembly(shaft and all)...

Hey guys, finished building the front assembly and have some concerns. Pardon me if this has already been answered earlier.
After installing the dogbones and adjusting it with the suggested length of the hub carrier/arms (step 1.11), I inspected how much throw left/right it can go, and noticed that there is a possibility for the dogbone to pop-out if you really set an aggressive end point (looking forward with servos are installed). How do you guys set this ? I was thinking of putting a spacer in the one way hub to push a dogbone some in the carrier, that would somehow eliminate the possibility of it to pop-out but the throw from left/right would somehow be lessened. Appreciate the help on this.

never believe everything you read, remember there is no fuel tank problem you infidel. :lol:

Wanna wager some green. They'll have ball diffs available to them too you wait and see. They bring everything but the kitchen sink to the Fort. Usually they are pretty good about making them available to everyone thats there, at least thats been the impression I had the last time I was there.


Actually D I think your confusing the black shoe with the XP graphite shoe. The black shoe is fairly hard and slips quite a bit and wears out decent. The XP is more gray colored and has better bite than the black, the yellow is abrasive and harder it bites similar to a red Rulon shoe however I think the Rulon shoe is the most abrasive and bites the hardest.

I run the Red shoe modified with a soft spring on my cars, as the new engines have excellent low speed torque. If your clutch engages to high you get smoked off the corner (sounds impressive but the car ain't goin nowhere) and then you go up in smoke in tire spin. I set up the clutch to engage as low as possible without bogging the engine, If its bogging don't be afraid to gear first down and step the two speed more teeth. we fought this bad on Impacts untill we went to 15 on first. I even latched onto some old Excel centax bells that are one piece and have 14 and 13 on first for my impact.

The front and rear shaft's are like my 1.8 Mugen. Take a close look at it on line, when I did I liked it... I got the car and I LOVE IT!

Centax Clutch
 

Mike Myers was interested in Art Carbonell's thought on the car??

From the Starting Grid Forum: Art Carbonell testing the clutch set up that many have reported as being very unresponsive.

ART:The one thing I noticed that I didn’t really care for was thethrottle response. I’m not sure what the problem is exactly. I want to try it some more. I played with the clutch spring a little bit. It didn’t seem to help that much. You had to pull the trigger quite a bit before the car actually “went”. This will be something for my next test session, trying to figure out what it is. I heard of some people having a similar problem. This is with the standard gear ratio.

As to the clutch, Art got it figured out. Apparently the spring was
wrong. After checking everything out, Art installed what he felt was the correct spring, and that cured the problem. Here's a photo of the two springs:

http://www.swrc.biz/clutch-spring.jpg

Don't worry. Finish the car and you'll see the steering throw is limited by the servo saver to a point where the dogbones will stay put.

Centax Clutch
 

No part #'s are given or tension ratings, however,The spring at the left (gold color) is the one that didn't perform the way Art felt it should. The spring at the right (gray color) is the one that worked the way Art wanted it to.

Mine appears ok at this time, make sure it turns freely in the collar and is close to flush with the end of your shaft.

Anyone know if different rated springs are available to try.

I just hope Delta comes out with the Red Clutch shoe for the centax three, they seem to work great in most situations.

Clutch engagement
 

I wonder if any of you have this problem on your 710s...the Centax seem to engage quite inconsistently...ie: it engages beautifully but then slips every alternate lap or so...:confused: :confused:

Any idea when the pins for the solid axle front will be released?

Brad was suppose to call dave at delta already, tell him to get on the stick.

I believe that gray spring is what came on some of the impacts, a soft mugen spring is close to it. Most centax springs are the same diameter and close in length. So you can look around at what is available off the shelf from other makers.

also as I said before scuff the shoe and bell with scotchbrite (the green stuff like you use to clean dishes with works ok if you cant find real scotchbrite) after you run it in, The black coating and any residual oil will glaze the shoe. once you scuff it you won't have to do it again.

Crashed you should be able to use standard shaft drive pins like drive the pulleys, I'm curious how you are suppose to hold them in? do you install them then tape around the axle to retain them??

Julius hows that suppose to be done?

Thanks for the response.
When you say that you have to sand the parts, does it mean that the parts wont fit without sanding? Or do they just bind? :p

That's because the food's good.... No need for the kitchen stuff:D