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Old 12-14-2005, 09:21 PM   #22711
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Smile head clearance?

How much head clearance are you guys running with 25% nitro? os .12 5 ports.Thx.
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Old 12-15-2005, 12:34 AM   #22712
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Generally between 0.5 to 06
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Old 12-15-2005, 06:31 AM   #22713
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I just build up my 710 serpent and broke the rear diff clamp.I was screwing the screw in and the plastic around the hole broke.
The thing is that the rear wheels never seemed to turn opposite.It's like they are locked.
How should they be.
Even when i unscrew the adjuster screw completely the wheels kep being locked...????
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Old 12-15-2005, 08:35 AM   #22714
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Default Diff vs Spool

I would like to know what you guys think the advantage/disadvantages would be for using a spool vs a diff in the front. I am running on a fairly tight track with very good traction. I've been using a front diff but all of the electric guys run a spool and say it is faster. I feel a one-way is faster than a diff but I need good brakes so I run the diff. Would the spool be worth a try? If so, are there any setup changes I should try with it?

Thanks,
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Old 12-15-2005, 09:29 AM   #22715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
I would like to know what you guys think the advantage/disadvantages would be for using a spool vs a diff in the front. I am running on a fairly tight track with very good traction. I've been using a front diff but all of the electric guys run a spool and say it is faster. I feel a one-way is faster than a diff but I need good brakes so I run the diff. Would the spool be worth a try? If so, are there any setup changes I should try with it?

Thanks,
jag
Jag, what do you mean by a spool? A locked one-way? If that's what you mean, I'd say give it try. With the 710 its just so easy to go from a one-way to a locked one-way. For the MTX you have to swap the whole freaking thing out. What a pain. Anyway, when you do this you will loose a little bit of steering but I didn't find it that serious. The best advice given to me to fix this problem is 'TURN EARLIER!' Sure enough, turning earlier does fix that understeer problem.

Anyway, the added braking power is a nice feature but keep in mind that by locking the front diff, the slower inner wheel will scrub when making a turn. Depending on surface the inner wheel may wear faster than you might anticipate. Be sure to check front wheels. Also, since the front wheels now will brake, both will loose foam a little faster than when on the pure one-way.

Compared to the front diff? Well, the front diff does give you better traction but if grip is already good that isn't much of an added advantage. The front diff is heavier so switching to the lighter one-way helps a lot. Remember, this is rotational, not static weight you are reducing. I've also noticed with the longer servo arm, the turnbuckle ball ends may touch the diff. This is really BAD but given you are aleady using the diff you probably noticed and fixed this. Another rare, but annoying problem with the diff is torque unload. In a simple diff, like the ball diff in this case, as the centre pulley spins, torque goes to the wheel with the least grip. So if grip is even 50/50 torque is divided nicely between the two. When one wheel looses grip, more torque will go to that wheel. This is good when track grip is poor but what if the wheel is raised going over a bump or if the car tips a bit? Basically ALL the torque goes to the raised wheel which is now in the air, not the track. Now your 4 wheel drive car is a 2 wheel drive car with all torque going to a raised wheel and none to the wheel on the asphalt. This case is rare though.

Anyway, as with any setting tip, you more or less have to try it yourself to see if it works for you. If the one-way is not as fast as you like the only advice I can offer is try braking a little earlier and throttle blip around your turns. This has helped me turn in more consistent laps.

Last edited by going4#1; 12-16-2005 at 08:11 PM.
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Old 12-15-2005, 09:40 AM   #22716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by going4#1
Jag, what do you mean but a spool? A locked one-way? If that's what you mean, I'd say give it try. With the 710 its just so easy to go from a one-way to a locked one-way. For the MTX you have to swap the whole freaking thing out. What a pain. Anyway, when you do this you will loose a little bit of steering but I didn't find it that serious. The best advice given to me to fix this problem is 'TURN EARLIER!' Sure enough, turning earlier does fix that understeer problem.

Anyway, the added braking power is a nice feature but keep in mind that by locking the front diff, the slower inner wheel will scrub when making a turn. Depending on surface the inner wheel may wear faster than you might anticipate. Be sure to check front wheels. Also, since the front wheels now will brake, both will loose foam a little faster than when on the pure one-way.

Compared to the front diff? Well, the front diff does give you better traction but if grip is already good that isn't much of an added advantage. The front diff is heavier so switching to the lighter one-way helps a lot. Remember, this is rotational, not static weight you are reducing. I've also noticed with the longer servo arm, the turnbuckle ball ends may touch the diff. This is really BAD but given you are aleady using the diff you probably noticed and fixed this. Another rare, but annoying problem with the diff is torque unload. In a simple diff, like the ball diff in this case, as the centre pulley spins, torque goes to the wheel with the least grip. So if grip is even 50/50 torque is divided nicely between the two. When one wheel looses grip, more torque will go to that wheel. This is good when track grip is poor but what if the wheel is raised going over a bump or if the car tips a bit? Basically ALL the torque goes to the raised wheel which is now in the air, not the track. Now your 4 wheel drive car is a 2 wheel drive car with all torque going to a raised wheel and none to the wheel on the asphalt. This case is rare though.

Anyway, as with any setting tip, you more or less have to try it yourself to see if it works for you. If the one-way is not as fast as you like the only advice I can offer is try braking a little earlier and throttle blip around your turns. This has helped me turn in more consistent laps.
Yes, I am talking about a locked one-way.

"Turn earlier" is good advice. I will try to employ that strategy.

Do you find that the car slows down alot while turning when using the spool? How about durability? Spools can be a little harsh. Have you broken anything or experienced excessive wear (other than tires) while using the locked one-way?

The electric guys say the car accellerates faster out of the turns. Do you find this to be true?

Thanks,
jag
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Old 12-15-2005, 03:10 PM   #22717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vti-chris
I just build up my 710 serpent and broke the rear diff clamp.I was screwing the screw in and the plastic around the hole broke.
Its either a freak part or you were screwing in too tight. I find these parts last forever.

Quote:
The thing is that the rear wheels never seemed to turn opposite.It's like they are locked.
How should they be.
Even when i unscrew the adjuster screw completely the wheels kep being locked...????
Assuming you've installed all the bits correctly, then you have probably screw in the alen screw and the opposite screw too tight together. (I see a pattern here!) These two are in the diff and you are meant to screw them in just enough that the diff gear do not rotate (by hand) when you hold the outdrives steady. Use this tool below to "hold" the outdrives in position, then diff try to turn the diff gear - bearing in mind you are meant to simulate the car's momentum when full brakes applied - not turn it with all your might!

Anyway, now that you've broken the clamp, get this :- http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=4086

More consistent!
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Old 12-15-2005, 08:35 PM   #22718
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotman
How much head clearance are you guys running with 25% nitro? os .12 5 ports.Thx.
How old is your motor. If it's new, try running with 0.5~0.6mm clearance like S&S said. Just leave the 2 shims in.
My TZ is no longer new, so compression is not as high as it was a few months back. I tried removing the 0.1mm shim and moving to a colder(P7) plug with 25% fuel. Gives better power(better acceleration) and engine temp is slightly lower. Give it a go if you find the compression has dropped...
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Old 12-15-2005, 09:06 PM   #22719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
Yes, I am talking about a locked one-way.

"Turn earlier" is good advice. I will try to employ that strategy.

Do you find that the car slows down alot while turning when using the spool? How about durability? Spools can be a little harsh. Have you broken anything or experienced excessive wear (other than tires) while using the locked one-way?

The electric guys say the car accellerates faster out of the turns. Do you find this to be true?

Thanks,
jag
I find that things like tyre, belts do wear faster whe using the front spool, especially on high bite tracks. But the advantage is late braking and good acceleration out of corners... It depends on your driving style...
If you like aggressive driving, then use a spool. But if your driving style is smoother style, then spool doesn't help. Generally if the track has a lot of hard braking into tight corners, try a spool. TIme your laps because sometimes a car looks fast but actually lap times are slower.

If you try a spool, play around with your shock and roll bar setting also.
If your track has high bite, run the car stiffer to take more weight off the inner tyres to lessen the stress on the drivetrain. If you find that the car understeers too much, run a stiffer rear setup to lift the inner rear wheel slightly... RIde height also has a lot of effect on handling of the 710...

Just my opinion. It works for me sometimes...

Don't forget to share the results of your testing here...
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Old 12-16-2005, 06:00 AM   #22720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady




Anyway, now that you've broken the clamp, get this :- http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=4086

More consistent!
How often do you change the PTFE material. I find the good smoothness is only at when it is new. After a long run it deteriorates. Mybe I am too fussy.
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Old 12-16-2005, 07:23 AM   #22721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thamjk
How often do you change the PTFE material. I find the good smoothness is only at when it is new. After a long run it deteriorates. Mybe I am too fussy.
from the TSN site.....
Quote:
Made from a PTFE material this diff shoe creates a much improved and smoother differential movement due to the material used. Also when the part wears you only need to replace the shoe.
so, replace the shoe......
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Old 12-16-2005, 08:45 AM   #22722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Vader
I find that things like tyre, belts do wear faster whe using the front spool, especially on high bite tracks. But the advantage is late braking and good acceleration out of corners... It depends on your driving style...
If you like aggressive driving, then use a spool. But if your driving style is smoother style, then spool doesn't help. Generally if the track has a lot of hard braking into tight corners, try a spool. TIme your laps because sometimes a car looks fast but actually lap times are slower.

If you try a spool, play around with your shock and roll bar setting also.
If your track has high bite, run the car stiffer to take more weight off the inner tyres to lessen the stress on the drivetrain. If you find that the car understeers too much, run a stiffer rear setup to lift the inner rear wheel slightly... RIde height also has a lot of effect on handling of the 710...

Just my opinion. It works for me sometimes...

Don't forget to share the results of your testing here...
Thanks for the input.

I will let you know how it works for me.

jag
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Old 12-16-2005, 10:46 AM   #22723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
Its either a freak part or you were screwing in too tight. I find these parts last forever.



Assuming you've installed all the bits correctly, then you have probably screw in the alen screw and the opposite screw too tight together. (I see a pattern here!) These two are in the diff and you are meant to screw them in just enough that the diff gear do not rotate (by hand) when you hold the outdrives steady. Use this tool below to "hold" the outdrives in position, then diff try to turn the diff gear - bearing in mind you are meant to simulate the car's momentum when full brakes applied - not turn it with all your might!

Anyway, now that you've broken the clamp, get this :- http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=4086

More consistent!
Found the screw,i put it in tooooooo tight and then i broke the clamp and thought i broke something else too but i took it off last night and found the problem...

Thanks a lot for the help!!!
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Old 12-16-2005, 01:38 PM   #22724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thamjk
How often do you change the PTFE material. I find the good smoothness is only at when it is new. After a long run it deteriorates. Mybe I am too fussy.
I haven't changed mine yet and since having it I've done 4 national races. Seems still OK and smooth.
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Old 12-16-2005, 01:39 PM   #22725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M7H
from the TSN site.....


so, replace the shoe......
You are both referring to the same thing.
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