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Old 12-02-2005, 06:37 AM   #22696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
Turn in understeer cause by a too tight front diff feels like the car goes straight on when turning in under braking. WHen you release the brake it turns in. Although this can also happen if you run too much brake.

In general turn in understeer is the effect that the car does not want to go into a corner off throttle. The stiffer the diffs are the more this can happen. But the extent depends on the rest of the setup.
The only time I experience this type of handling is when I enter a turn with too much speed. We have a sharp 135 degree turn at the end of a long straight and if I don't get on the brakes in time the car won't turn. I assume that is driver error and I should not expect the car to turn under those circumstances. I may try loosening the front diff to see if it helps while tightening the rear to help the on power steering.
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Old 12-02-2005, 10:02 AM   #22697
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Originally Posted by jag
The only time I experience this type of handling is when I enter a turn with too much speed. We have a sharp 135 degree turn at the end of a long straight and if I don't get on the brakes in time the car won't turn. I assume that is driver error and I should not expect the car to turn under those circumstances. I may try loosening the front diff to see if it helps while tightening the rear to help the on power steering.
First just tighten the rear. Normally the front diff should be quite tight. If it's too loose the handling on throttle may get unpredictable.
But best is to try both options. Experiment with the rear first then adjust the front. You'll get a feel for the diff settings soon enough. But do make very small adjustments. Or you'll find yourself going from one extreme to another...
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Old 12-02-2005, 11:12 AM   #22698
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If you own a Serpent 710 and don't have the set-up booklet you need to get a copy. It has so much usefull information.
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Old 12-02-2005, 06:15 PM   #22699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
First just tighten the rear. Normally the front diff should be quite tight. If it's too loose the handling on throttle may get unpredictable.
But best is to try both options. Experiment with the rear first then adjust the front. You'll get a feel for the diff settings soon enough. But do make very small adjustments. Or you'll find yourself going from one extreme to another...
Got it. I have the alum diff clamps on there and I know it only takes a little turn to make a big difference and I will only adjust one at a time, rear first.

Thanks again Julius. Are you sure I can't talk you into coming to the WinterNats? Being one of your pit monkeys would be fun... if not maybe I'll find Mark.

Jim
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Old 12-03-2005, 11:06 AM   #22700
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Default Servo saver problem

I'm building a new 710 after being two years with NTC3. All went well until I found the servo saver can move up and down for about 1 mm. I've triple check for assembly error with no result. It seems that the servo saver axle not long enough. The radio plate is flush with front bearing block. Any idea? please help. Thanks.
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Old 12-03-2005, 03:13 PM   #22701
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hi jullius i am from the netherlands and i also drive a 710 and most of the time at gouda. have you ever driven there with the 710 and do you have a cool setup for me if you drove there?
greets nico
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Old 12-03-2005, 06:46 PM   #22702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alan
I'm building a new 710 after being two years with NTC3. All went well until I found the servo saver can move up and down for about 1 mm. I've triple check for assembly error with no result. It seems that the servo saver axle not long enough. The radio plate is flush with front bearing block. Any idea? please help. Thanks.
I remembered there was slops (0.5mm kind of) in original/standard configuration on which is needed for a little plays but I think 1mm a bit too much. I`m sure you know exactly how to build the car so I guess as of now you could only shim it as the slop will be getting less and less during removal and retightening the upperdeck/front upper bulkheads.
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Old 12-03-2005, 06:49 PM   #22703
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By the way, if you are interested of using rear gear diff, look for this serpent part number 802600 which is going to be release mid Dec (I beleive the come assembled).
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Old 12-05-2005, 11:36 AM   #22704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyramid
By the way, if you are interested of using rear gear diff, look for this serpent part number 802600 which is going to be release mid Dec (I beleive the come assembled).
That's cool. What about a front gear diff?

jag
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Old 12-06-2005, 04:11 AM   #22705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyramid
By the way, if you are interested of using rear gear diff, look for this serpent part number 802600 which is going to be release mid Dec (I beleive the come assembled).

Assembled, heh, when will that RTR 710 come?
I do think the new management changes things, and it's positive i think! Great going there!

I'm reaaaaallyy exited to see the Euro's in 2006, what will serpent do at there home track... oeft.. can't wait!!!1
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Old 12-06-2005, 05:08 AM   #22706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _cyclops_
what will serpent do at there home track... oeft.. can't wait!!!1
At first they will test a lot!...
even more than that they are doing now!......
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Old 12-06-2005, 04:08 PM   #22707
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Quote:
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At first they will test a lot!...
even more than that they are doing now!......
that's for sure yes
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Old 12-07-2005, 07:56 AM   #22708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
That's cool. What about a front gear diff?

jag
I think no plan at all. One way still the fastest to go but you loose braking sense. Solid is nice, but things wore down much faster and less fuel milage. Ball diff is ok, just need more maintanance compared to the other mentioned options. Solid but one way (Xray multidiff features that they patended ) should have been tried in 200mm GP.. who knows Or multiflex aluminum chassis
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Old 12-12-2005, 05:00 PM   #22709
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what is the good LHS in bay area for serpent 710 parts? thx.
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Old 12-12-2005, 08:39 PM   #22710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyramid
I think no plan at all. One way still the fastest to go but you loose braking sense. Solid is nice, but things wore down much faster and less fuel milage. Ball diff is ok, just need more maintanance compared to the other mentioned options. Solid but one way (Xray multidiff features that they patended ) should have been tried in 200mm GP.. who knows Or multiflex aluminum chassis
Hey Pyramid,
r u coming to HK in mid Jan for the Asia Serpent Cup?
If you do and need anything, you know where to find me.

tks
chris
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