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Old 11-27-2005, 09:52 AM   #22666
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Default Mega pipe

This pipe is supposed to be good:
http://shop.the-border.nl/product.ph...820&quantity=1

But: no info on MyTSN, you also have to buy a manifold and then the price goes up to 100 euro's...

I bought a Mielke pipe, that's very lightweight and supposed to be a good pipe.

http://www.storm-discount.com/catalo...roducts_id=865

Storm Discount also has cheap foamies!
Check out the Twisters...
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Old 11-27-2005, 02:13 PM   #22667
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Default Mega Pipe

The pipe I was told to use by Palo was the MEGA 203002 (Pipe-Set Inline ZX12 Conical). This is the EFRA 2607 pipe. I have fount it to be the best pipe I have used, and good gas milage on my MEGA ZX12, OS TR12 and several Murnan Modified x12's.
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Old 11-28-2005, 03:05 AM   #22668
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That's this one:
http://shop.the-border.nl/product.ph...8&cat=0&page=1

To me it looks like it is the same as the one I mentioned, but with manifold.

When you look up "203002" on myTSN (product finder)...then there's nothing...

The only exhaust product I can find for a ZX12, is the manifold (#203047), but no pipe...

Now the racing season is over here in Serpent country, it might be a good idea to do some website maintenance...
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Old 11-28-2005, 06:14 AM   #22669
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Ridder,

2607 pipe set (203002) is picco pipe that made to fit ZX12 or any other picco engine perfectly. The newer pipe releases 203048 is the exact same pipe with Max Power 2602 (new version with bigger manifold diameter). NR denotes for novarossi which means if you going to put it on Megas, you need that thicker manifold gasket (provided). I suggest you get 2607 (203002).
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Old 11-28-2005, 06:26 AM   #22670
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Ok, Thank's

to all
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Old 11-28-2005, 11:32 AM   #22671
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Default New Chassis

I am going to be giving the new chassis a try on Wednesday night and was wondering if the setup was the same or is their any other info. I might be interested in. The receiver bracket and 61t 1st gear look very close to the bottom of the chassis.

Thanks,
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Old 11-28-2005, 12:00 PM   #22672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
I am going to be giving the new chassis a try on Wednesday night and was wondering if the setup was the same or is their any other info. I might be interested in. The receiver bracket and 61t 1st gear look very close to the bottom of the chassis.

Thanks,
jag
When using the lowered chassis, you need to keep a closer look on the 1st gear. It is a little more prone to damage so keep an eye on it and if in doubt change it before a main. You can use the damaged gears in practice again.

Setup wise you have two options. Use all the values of the normal chassis. In that way the cg of the car is lowered by 1mm.
Or use all settings of the normal chassis except ride height and downstop. If you set downstops 1mm lower and ride height 1mm higher, you'd end up with the same cg ast the stock chassis but 1mm more ground clearance. This is good on bumpy or very high tire wear tracks.
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Old 11-28-2005, 01:50 PM   #22673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
When using the lowered chassis, you need to keep a closer look on the 1st gear. It is a little more prone to damage so keep an eye on it and if in doubt change it before a main. You can use the damaged gears in practice again.

Setup wise you have two options. Use all the values of the normal chassis. In that way the cg of the car is lowered by 1mm.
Or use all settings of the normal chassis except ride height and downstop. If you set downstops 1mm lower and ride height 1mm higher, you'd end up with the same cg ast the stock chassis but 1mm more ground clearance. This is good on bumpy or very high tire wear tracks.
Thanks, Julius.

I've been having a traction roll problem lately so I'm hoping the lower CG will help. I have the car as low as I can run it (5mm) and the tires are small (60mm or less) 40 sh but they prep the track with VHT and the traction is very high. I think I'll try 42 sh next time.

Any other suggestions?

jag
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Old 11-28-2005, 02:50 PM   #22674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
Thanks, Julius.

I've been having a traction roll problem lately so I'm hoping the lower CG will help. I have the car as low as I can run it (5mm) and the tires are small (60mm or less) 40 sh but they prep the track with VHT and the traction is very high. I think I'll try 42 sh next time.

Any other suggestions?

jag
Well, you could try a solution used by Paolo and others at the high traction us races. They cut the front tires so they are a smaller width. to 24 or 22 mm in stead of 26.
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Old 11-28-2005, 03:02 PM   #22675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
Well, you could try a solution used by Paolo and others at the high traction us races. They cut the front tires so they are a smaller width. to 24 or 22 mm in stead of 26.
I have seen that before but have never tried it.

What does it mean when my front tires wear to a sharp edge on the inside edge? When I put the tires on I have nice rolled edges and after 2 qualifiers the inner edge is sharp but the outer edge is still nice and round. Do I need more camber or is that the way the tires wear?

Thanks,
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Old 11-28-2005, 03:10 PM   #22676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
I have seen that before but have never tried it.

What does it mean when my front tires wear to a sharp edge on the inside edge? When I put the tires on I have nice rolled edges and after 2 qualifiers the inner edge is sharp but the outer edge is still nice and round. Do I need more camber or is that the way the tires wear?

Thanks,
jag
Sounds like you have either too much or too little camber. Hard to say which without a picture. Are the tyres wearing flat or coning. If they are flat I would reduce camber a tiny bit. If they are coning adjust the camber whichever way you need to to get them wearing evenly.
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Old 11-29-2005, 12:44 AM   #22677
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
I have seen that before but have never tried it.

What does it mean when my front tires wear to a sharp edge on the inside edge? When I put the tires on I have nice rolled edges and after 2 qualifiers the inner edge is sharp but the outer edge is still nice and round. Do I need more camber or is that the way the tires wear?

Thanks,
jag
It could be you have a bit too much front camber. I like to see a slight cone to the rear tires and the fronts wearing almost flat (just a hint of a cone to the inside). If you have that I wouldn't worry about the edge too much.
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Old 11-30-2005, 05:44 AM   #22678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
When using the lowered chassis, you need to keep a closer look on the 1st gear. It is a little more prone to damage so keep an eye on it and if in doubt change it before a main. You can use the damaged gears in practice again.
Yes, definitely keep an eye on it ... I lost my second final at the Euros after the first gear spur stripped.
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Old 11-30-2005, 06:27 AM   #22679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
Yes, definitely keep an eye on it ... I lost my second final at the Euros after the first gear spur stripped.
What gear were you using 60, 61? Was it hitting the ground or was it damaged by debris?
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Old 11-30-2005, 06:31 AM   #22680
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
It could be you have a bit too much front camber. I like to see a slight cone to the rear tires and the fronts wearing almost flat (just a hint of a cone to the inside). If you have that I wouldn't worry about the edge too much.
They look to have a slight cone to the outside (slightly smaller on the outside). I added .5 degrees of camber (2 degrees total) to the front. I guess I need to file the inner edge after each heat.

Thanks guys,
jag
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