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Old 10-21-2005, 12:20 PM   #22501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andream88
Why if i am in the us?
I live in italy..
then definitely get the 710.
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Old 10-23-2005, 02:12 PM   #22502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
The advantage of the 21t pulley in high traction is reduced traction roll. You need to run 3mm smaller front tires and that makes the car more stable. Also you get slightly better response on the steering. The car changes direction a bit better. But in the corner you may lose a little steering.
Hi, just to report on my first day with the RCC shocks and the 21T pulley:

I first try out the RCC shock without the 21T pulley just to se the difference without any changes on the car, it really was a difference in the handling of the car it felt much more smooth I could really notices the difference with the old shocks.

I then when and install the 21T pulley but change the set up of the car:

Down stop front from 0 to -1
Rear from 7 to 8

Camber front -3
Rear -1.5

Tires Front 40 61mm
Rear 40 64mm

Toe in rear -3
Toe out Front from 1 to .5

Shocks RCC Front Red, 3 holes, 40W, Tower position move from 1st hole to 2nd hole
Rear Red, 3 holes, 35W, Tower position 1st hole

All the rest left the same:

Front Diff medium hard
Rear Diff soft

Front Anti roll bar 45
Rear Anti roll bar 2mm, 0mm inner

Front Roll Center 1mm under
Rear Roll Center UPPER Low inner LOWER LOW


I used the new 4mm Chassis.

The result was excellent the car was well balance for overall performance, no traction roll, and very good steering and good punch coming out of the corners.


Jose
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Old 10-26-2005, 12:57 AM   #22503
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How do you disassemble the RCC shocks??? I just bought the front and rear set and for the life of me I can't figure out break them down to add oil to them... Thanks

RC_Alan
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Old 10-26-2005, 03:48 AM   #22504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_alan
How do you disassemble the RCC shocks??? I just bought the front and rear set and for the life of me I can't figure out break them down to add oil to them... Thanks

RC_Alan
Unlike the stock shocks, the RCC shocks open from the bottom. I used a small adjustable spanner to hold the flats on the black bottom cap and just hold the shock body with my hands. They twist off quite easily. Don't overtighten them coz you may crush the o-ring seal at the bottom. Just snug enough so it doesn't come apart from vibration and the oil doesn't leak.

Another thing I did was to unscrew the top cap and apply a bit of threadlock before I put it together. This is so that the top stays put when I adjust the spring collar.

Haven't used them yet. They look too nice to use...
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Old 10-26-2005, 05:16 AM   #22505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
No it's not the alu part. The 802387 is included in the kit.

Important extra's:
Front ball diff #802370. I run it close to everywhere.

Options for better drivers (otherwise spend the money on tires = practice!)
Chassis 4mm alu. T6 Team #802121
Engine monoblock M12 (ME/PI) #802553 (or #802552 for Nova engines)
Bracket radioplate support alu #802136
Increase overall stiffness
CV-axles set #802350 No more lost bones and smoother drivetrain in corners


Other nice to have options: (if you've money to spare)
Hex wheel adaptors Orange # 802255
Lightweight pulley adapters #802165
Alu front upper arm brace #802220
Julius:

I still have not decided, but i am still in the process of getting all the funds together...

I currently run on a concrete track on rubber tyres which has a few tight sections etc, most of the field is made up of MTX3's, a NTC3, & a G4, my question is obviously the 710 is primarily designed for foams in it's suspension design etc... Will it cut the mustard?

I have been told by a respected friend to go for a FT NTC3 as it will be better suited for this sort of track. I look forward to hearing from you shortly.

BB
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Old 10-26-2005, 06:32 AM   #22506
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Also,

Seeing as i am going to be running mostly on concrete, would i need to do any mods to the clutch? I remember that there has been issues with it in the past? I don't want a repeat of the G4 an have to buy a UFO thingy for $150aussy

BB
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Old 10-26-2005, 07:13 AM   #22507
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Could anybody tell me if the serpent mega motors are any good
as i am thinking of buying.
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Old 10-26-2005, 08:20 AM   #22508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Vader
Unlike the stock shocks, the RCC shocks open from the bottom. I used a small adjustable spanner to hold the flats on the black bottom cap and just hold the shock body with my hands. They twist off quite easily. Don't overtighten them coz you may crush the o-ring seal at the bottom. Just snug enough so it doesn't come apart from vibration and the oil doesn't leak.

Another thing I did was to unscrew the top cap and apply a bit of threadlock before I put it together. This is so that the top stays put when I adjust the spring collar.

Haven't used them yet. They look too nice to use...
Thanks Darth Vader... I'll give it a shot... I just didn't want to twist something to hard and damage those shocks... $55.00 dollars a par... aint easy to replace...

RC_Alan
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Old 10-26-2005, 09:39 AM   #22509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_alan
Thanks Darth Vader... I'll give it a shot... I just didn't want to twist something to hard and damage those shocks... $55.00 dollars a par... aint easy to replace...

RC_Alan

going to run your new ride this saturday ?
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Old 10-26-2005, 02:49 PM   #22510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear
Julius:

I still have not decided, but i am still in the process of getting all the funds together...

I currently run on a concrete track on rubber tyres which has a few tight sections etc, most of the field is made up of MTX3's, a NTC3, & a G4, my question is obviously the 710 is primarily designed for foams in it's suspension design etc... Will it cut the mustard?

I have been told by a respected friend to go for a FT NTC3 as it will be better suited for this sort of track. I look forward to hearing from you shortly.

BB
The current Rubber tire champion in Britain (they have by far the biggest rubber tire championship in europe) runs a 710. So I'd think the car works quite well with rubber. You can search his setups at the mytsn site. His name is Paul Knapton.
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Old 10-26-2005, 02:51 PM   #22511
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Data
going to run your new ride this saturday ?
Yes Data... I'll be there testing things out...

RC_Alan
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Old 10-26-2005, 04:00 PM   #22512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
The current Rubber tire champion in Britain (they have by far the biggest rubber tire championship in europe) runs a 710. So I'd think the car works quite well with rubber. You can search his setups at the mytsn site. His name is Paul Knapton.

Thank you again

Do you think i would need to do any mods to the centax? Also has the issue with thr length of the steering arm been resolved? I bought a S710 when they first came out, but blew three thrust bearings in the clutch an gave it up. I think it was user error then anything else

BB
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Old 10-27-2005, 10:08 PM   #22513
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Default Team Serpent ready for the Nats

Finally after a really strong hurricane, we have Internet again at the office. We where really lucky because we had no damage and we had power since the day after so we where able to keep working in order to finish the preparation of all the equipment.

For this race, the most important in USA, we will have a very strong Team in both classes.

We where lucky also in being able to test the weekend before the storm. Both S-960 and S-710 are performing really well.

We will like to invite all Serpent drivers, to join us and share a great time. We will be more than welcome to help and assist you with in any technical matter. Beside Michael Salven, all the other drivers are very capable and more than willing to help.

Good luck to everybody attending the event and let's race and have fun!!!
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Old 10-28-2005, 02:08 AM   #22514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear
Thank you again

Do you think i would need to do any mods to the centax? Also has the issue with thr length of the steering arm been resolved? I bought a S710 when they first came out, but blew three thrust bearings in the clutch an gave it up. I think it was user error then anything else

BB
Which bearings in the clutch did you blow? The two metal shielded bearings or the thrust bearing at the end of the clutch assembly.

For the thrust bearing, make sure you clean it regularly and use a thick grease to lubricate it - one of the best is Mugen's Super Grease.

For the two metal shielded bearings, before you use them, flush them out with a brake cleaner (or other degreasing agent) - then lubricate them with WD40.

I do these two steps at the end of each day and my clutch works perfectly everytime.

Also you have to make sure you have your clutch setup correctly. Make sure your clutch gap is set to about 0.6mm at first and that there is virtually no push-pull play once the clutch is fully assembled (but ensure that there is some slight movement).


Cheers, Mark.
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Old 10-28-2005, 03:51 AM   #22515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markp27
Which bearings in the clutch did you blow? The two metal shielded bearings or the thrust bearing at the end of the clutch assembly.

For the thrust bearing, make sure you clean it regularly and use a thick grease to lubricate it - one of the best is Mugen's Super Grease.

For the two metal shielded bearings, before you use them, flush them out with a brake cleaner (or other degreasing agent) - then lubricate them with WD40.

I do these two steps at the end of each day and my clutch works perfectly everytime.

Also you have to make sure you have your clutch setup correctly. Make sure your clutch gap is set to about 0.6mm at first and that there is virtually no push-pull play once the clutch is fully assembled (but ensure that there is some slight movement).


Cheers, Mark.
Markp27:

It was the Thrust bearing that i was having problems with

I have not had a lot of experience with a Centax clutch and i think this is more then likely the problem.

BB
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