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Old 09-01-2005, 04:18 AM   #22231
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Originally Posted by Sow&Steady


Well, glad you enjoyed the video ... sorry for the large size to download but I'm glad you downloaded it anyway. I know when I was in SEAsia, I see that 3hobby can be a little slow.

There are more Euros videos coming. There are interviews with Salven-Meister, Pieter and Tim (VRC), Dave Spashett, Julius, Rene, plus many more. Lots of "hidden" tips can be learned from these. I just need to find time to do the edits!

I just read the report, and you guys rock with the story and movies!

Is there a way to get a high quality version of things? maybe send/sell a cd/dvd?

Oeh, just had the greatest idea, make a cd/dvd, sell it, and put some 3hobby.net stickers with it!!!
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Old 09-01-2005, 06:27 AM   #22232
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Originally Posted by InitialD
How do you mean when you say you wore out the clutch shoes? The shoes not usable anymore? If that's the case, then something is definitely wrong.
It wore down to the point where the flywheel pins were flush with the clutch shoe. It looks like if I use it more the pins will rub on the clutch bell.
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Old 09-01-2005, 06:55 AM   #22233
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Using the stock black flyweights and the yellow shoe, 0.7 gap and the stock spring you should have a good clutch. All you need to do is experiment with the spring setting. Just keep tightening until you get a late engagement without slip. If you have slip immedeately bring the car in and loosen the spring 1/4er of a turn at a time till the clutch no longer slips.

Sure the weighted flyweights and other special tricks might give a better feel or response, but the difference is very very small. More often than not will modifications lead to uneven wear on the shoe, difficult to set clutches excessive wear etc. My advice? Use the stock parts with the yellow shoe and you 'll be close. Learn to setup that combo first and then experiment.
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Old 09-01-2005, 07:29 AM   #22234
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Originally Posted by jag
It wore down to the point where the flywheel pins were flush with the clutch shoe. It looks like if I use it more the pins will rub on the clutch bell.
My experience so far is that the clutch bell is harder than the pins. One of the pins in my fly wheel has come loose and has been rubbing against the clutch bell. The bell seems fine, but the pin shows some wear... Time for a new fly wheel I guess...
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Old 09-01-2005, 07:31 AM   #22235
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Originally Posted by _cyclops_
I just read the report, and you guys rock with the story and movies!

Is there a way to get a high quality version of things? maybe send/sell a cd/dvd?

Oeh, just had the greatest idea, make a cd/dvd, sell it, and put some 3hobby.net stickers with it!!!
Not a bad idea. It won't be for making money though because I didn't create the website for that idea and also I don't want to not be able to deliver on time when people make an order. The videos are good content-wise but they were not shot by professionals ... just me and a few friends, sometimes just me.

Editing takes a long time (for the Euros, we came back with 6 tapes, each with about 2 hours of recording!) and the actualy editing is done with a PC using home-quality software. Even worse, after experimenting at burning DVDs, I find that my system takes a long time to do just one! In short, I am no "Ray Wood"!

OK, now that I have given my excuses, for those interested, please PM me either here or at 3hobby.net and let me know. I'2ll see what I can do.

Thanks!
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Old 09-01-2005, 07:50 AM   #22236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
Using the stock black flyweights and the yellow shoe, 0.7 gap and the stock spring you should have a good clutch. All you need to do is experiment with the spring setting. Just keep tightening until you get a late engagement without slip. If you have slip immedeately bring the car in and loosen the spring 1/4er of a turn at a time till the clutch no longer slips.

Sure the weighted flyweights and other special tricks might give a better feel or response, but the difference is very very small. More often than not will modifications lead to uneven wear on the shoe, difficult to set clutches excessive wear etc. My advice? Use the stock parts with the yellow shoe and you 'll be close. Learn to setup that combo first and then experiment.
I have a good clutch setup (to me it's good ) on my RB which is Glen's modified one with grub screws in the weights still on the pins, the black shoe and the stiff spring. That is the clutch I ran at last years state races and I ran that engine last night and it worked good. I have been experimenting with the clutch on my NovaMega. If I don't like the clutch the way I have it now I will go back to your setup.

I ran the car last night... until it rained The car is working really well now. The rear traction is much better with the 2.5mm sway bar and the shocks mounted as you told me. I did loose a little off power/on brake steering, like a push. I would wait too long to get on the brakes before the turn (the car was fast) and the car would drift out of the groove and straight out to the board. What is the proper term for this? When my speed was right the car was a missle. I'm sure I was turning my fastest lap times but the scoring system was not running due to the weather. Should I try to get some steering back or should I just leave it and drive better? I know it's a balancing act but I would like a little more off power steering... it helps keep me out of trouble. Any suggestions?

One more question, do you add weight to your car for balance? With all of the stuff I have on my car now, front diff with alum. collar, alum. mid-shaft brace, rear diff alum. collar, alum. front sway bar mounts, thicker rear sway bar, etc... the car is not light anymore. I am considering using the alum "X" brace as well. Do you recommend? I have seen cars with weight mounted to the chassis between the tank and the pipe. I just don't want the car to be heavy.

Thanks,
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Old 09-01-2005, 08:45 AM   #22237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
OK, now that I have given my excuses, for those interested, please PM me either here or at 3hobby.net and let me know. I'2ll see what I can do.
Thanks!
Bro, you'd better clear your PM mail box now to make space for the onslaught of PMs you're about to receive

Maybe offer a open-source type service, where those who have bought the DVD from you have to copy it for at least one more person. That would reduce the work load on your part enormously!

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 09-01-2005, 08:56 AM   #22238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Vader
Is there such a thing as red clucth shoes for 710???
I've two of Motorman's red shoes available. If interested let me know.
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Old 09-01-2005, 09:10 AM   #22239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
Using the stock black flyweights and the yellow shoe, 0.7 gap and the stock spring you should have a good clutch. All you need to do is experiment with the spring setting. Just keep tightening until you get a late engagement without slip. If you have slip immedeately bring the car in and loosen the spring 1/4er of a turn at a time till the clutch no longer slips.

Sure the weighted flyweights and other special tricks might give a better feel or response, but the difference is very very small. More often than not will modifications lead to uneven wear on the shoe, difficult to set clutches excessive wear etc. My advice? Use the stock parts with the yellow shoe and you 'll be close. Learn to setup that combo first and then experiment.
Julius hit it on the head!! Stock flyweights and yellow shoe is my setup. The only difference is that I use the hard spring.

Jag...quit messing with the car and go drive
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Old 09-01-2005, 09:26 AM   #22240
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i did some racing today on Heemstede. It went very very well.
I set up the car with a set up system which i bought and the car never run as fast as today.
Julius was driving also, but he is a bit faster
I only ditched the red shock membrames. They were all leaking.
They are a bit to wide so when you screw on the cap, the membrames get cut by the treading on the cap.

I only had some engine problems, after the back straight, i brake but when i let go off the brake the engine still is running pretty fast. So fast that the clutch engages, and the car go's wide. It's not in the servo linkage or something because in other parts of the track i don't have that problem.
I read somewhere that the engine is running to rich on the hsn.
but the engine is getting pretty hot already, 115C

And cyclops i run 40W oil, 4 holes( my shocks don't have 5 holes??) and red springs around.
Sunday i'm going to the track. Then there are always some good drivers which can help with the engine tuning.
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Old 09-01-2005, 09:42 AM   #22241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markp27
Bro, you'd better clear your PM mail box now to make space for the onslaught of PMs you're about to receive

Maybe offer a open-source type service, where those who have bought the DVD from you have to copy it for at least one more person. That would reduce the work load on your part enormously!

Cheers, Mark.

Open source? I like that ... which is why I have it for free download. Only the cost of bandwidth and server space limits the size and quality. Still, open source DVD is fine by me.
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Old 09-01-2005, 09:43 AM   #22242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport
i did some racing today on Heemstede. It went very very well.
I set up the car with a set up system which i bought and the car never run as fast as today.
Julius was driving also, but he is a bit faster
I only ditched the red shock membrames. They were all leaking.
They are a bit to wide so when you screw on the cap, the membrames get cut by the treading on the cap.

I only had some engine problems, after the back straight, i brake but when i let go off the brake the engine still is running pretty fast. So fast that the clutch engages, and the car go's wide. It's not in the servo linkage or something because in other parts of the track i don't have that problem.
I read somewhere that the engine is running to rich on the hsn.
but the engine is getting pretty hot already, 115C

And cyclops i run 40W oil, 4 holes( my shocks don't have 5 holes??) and red springs around.
Sunday i'm going to the track. Then there are always some good drivers which can help with the engine tuning.

Do a video, do a video and send it to me! We need to "prepare" for the Euros next year.
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Old 09-01-2005, 11:18 AM   #22243
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Originally Posted by InitialD
When you say it jams at max wheel lock, you mean the dogbones get stuck halfway out and in the wheelaxles, right? And that your steering cannot move to return to neutral position, right?

The idea is NOT to let the steering servo travel at full lock if possible. Look at somewhere else in the setup if you require more turn in.

What front trackwidth are you running?
Doctor D!!!!

Here's my setup, the track is tight and technical, little grip (high tire wear though), a small straight and two very tight 180 deg corners after heavy braking. Originally I was running a solid axle and standard rc, and found the car heavily oversteering on power (with a Rody) but with very little mid corner steering . I am testing the front diff tommorow plus other adjustments * cause if I drive it the way it is I won't finish a lap. I have no experience with changing the trackwidth however so any input on that would surely save me quite a bit of money and angry faces this weekend

FR

Red Springs 35 lowest hole
35 - 37 shore
2m spacing rc *
no caster
1.5 deg camber 200 mm tw
diff ?? will test it very tight *
5mm rideheight
1 deg toe out
front bar flat

RR

Red Springs 35 lowest hole
37 shore
rc upper bottom and inside middle *
2 deg camber
diff medium loose
6 mm rideheight
2 deg toe in
rear bar standard 0 mm

Mazda 6
21 t pulley
optional chassis*
droop standard f r
yellow clutch shoe and harder spring

*new goodies for this weekend.

After reading through your posts on roll centers I adjusted as per Julius recommendations, and will use my Nova as there is very little room for the Rody to express itself . I will also return to original black clutch and gold spring to remove some of the kick.
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Old 09-01-2005, 11:59 AM   #22244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustRace
Julius hit it on the head!! Stock flyweights and yellow shoe is my setup. The only difference is that I use the hard spring.

Jag...quit messing with the car and go drive
I was trying to drive. The weather was not cooperating. Why didn't you call me back... scared? I want you to look my car over to make sure it's good. It's almost time to start racing... real racing with a car not a computer.

Messing with the car is fun... plus, if you don't mess, you don't learn.
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Old 09-01-2005, 02:47 PM   #22245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
I was trying to drive. The weather was not cooperating. Why didn't you call me back... scared? I want you to look my car over to make sure it's good. It's almost time to start racing... real racing with a car not a computer.

Messing with the car is fun... plus, if you don't mess, you don't learn.
VRC is better Hit exit and the car is clean and ready for the next time.
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