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Old 12-27-2003, 05:47 PM   #2176
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Quote:
Originally posted by S710_Nut
InitialD: I believe it was the 19t pulley on the runner, the manual shows the pulley the wrong way around, the countersunk part on the pulley needs to go in first so the e clip lines up?
You're right ! Thanks for pointing it out. Sometimes I just build the car without even referring to the manual how it should be done. That is why I miss these kind of details.
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Old 12-27-2003, 05:48 PM   #2177
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Default Re: Re: Re: 710 kit problems?

Quote:
Originally posted by tomkelley
Yeah I looked all over for it, there is no 19tooth gear. I have 3 22 tooth gears (2 marked mid, 1 marked 2sp), and one 24t marked 2sp. I only need one mid 22t, not two. I do however have the 19t flange, woohoo!
Like Julius mentioned, try to contact Serpent USA for the part replacement. If you're impatient, just go to the nearest LHS and get the pulley !
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Old 12-27-2003, 06:48 PM   #2178
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Guys

What are the exact size of allen key drivers required to build the car. Most of the ones i have are imperial from the NTC3 and i am sick of using the allen keys you get with the kit....

And also the wheel nut driver size as well?

SN
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Old 12-27-2003, 07:07 PM   #2179
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Quote:
Originally posted by S710_Nut
Guys

What are the exact size of allen key drivers required to build the car. Most of the ones i have are imperial from the NTC3 and i am sick of using the allen keys you get with the kit....

And also the wheel nut driver size as well?

SN
1.5mm allen key
2mm
2.5mm
3mm
5mm
and 7mm socket for the wheel nuts.
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Old 12-27-2003, 09:38 PM   #2180
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Pacman25 is right. The two grub screws are in the separate pack where the linkage spring is. I guess Serpent missed that one out and decided to put it in later.



Which step was this wrong? To my knowledge, I didn't find any.



Yes, I mark mine with a marker pen. I notice that everytime you rebuilkd the shock, the shock cap does not end up at the same position. So marking it permanantly would be pointless.
I bought a small diamond tip engraving tip for the dremel; I engrave S or P on each pair (port or starboard), on the metal cap next ot the notch. I tried the marker,but after cleaning it is often not visable. This part of the cap is always facing out due to the notch.
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Old 12-27-2003, 11:25 PM   #2181
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Tool for Calculating Ratios
Enjoy.


(http://texpacman.tripod.com/cgi-bin/...ocal_setup.exe)
Copy this link into your browser to download.

Last edited by Pacman25; 12-27-2003 at 11:48 PM.
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Old 12-28-2003, 12:59 AM   #2182
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Those that have run the car, What is the default Clutch setting like? Does it engage early or late? I am going to be running on concrete with rubber tires so i don' want it engaging too high in the power range or all i will ever do is 360 degree spins
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Old 12-28-2003, 01:17 AM   #2183
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InitialD: A few pages back when you posted the picture off your 710, you had the front shock on the back off the front shock tower? Whats the go there?

SN
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Old 12-28-2003, 01:20 AM   #2184
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Default Bearings!

Would you guys bother removing the shield from the bearings cleaning them and replacing the oil with a teflon based lub before use?

Also,

How often would you clean the bearings? After every meet?

SN
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Old 12-28-2003, 02:02 AM   #2185
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Quote:
Originally posted by S710_Nut
InitialD: A few pages back when you posted the picture off your 710, you had the front shock on the back off the front shock tower? Whats the go there?

SN

D wasnt happy with the angle of the shocks in the stock position. Julius has already answered that it shouldnt be a problem in the intended position.

Quote:
Would you guys bother removing the shield from the bearings cleaning them and replacing the oil with a teflon based lub before use?
I dont clean them out new. I run them stock for the first few runs until I am happy the belts and drive train has worn in. Then I tear the car down and clean and re lube the bearings. Then its a clean and relube after every race day.
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Old 12-28-2003, 07:29 AM   #2186
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Quote:
Originally posted by sparksy
D wasnt happy with the angle of the shocks in the stock position. Julius has already answered that it shouldnt be a problem in the intended position.
Yes, that's correct.

Quote:
Originally posted by sparksy
I dont clean them out new. I run them stock for the first few runs until I am happy the belts and drive train has worn in. Then I tear the car down and clean and re lube the bearings. Then its a clean and relube after every race day.
I did that once with the 705. Ran it out of the box with the stock bearings without cleaning them. Well, a few of them busted. Perhaps it could be coincidental that the bearings I had were bad.

Anyway, I thought I tried differently this time with the 710. But then again, like the shock tower thingy, it's a matter of preference for me. It's a nice feeling to know that you lubed them good and know that eveyone of them will works good. I only degrease and lube those bearings that are the rubber shielded ones. The small ones I leave them alone. Besides, I give them Mobil 1 treatment on these bearings after I degrease them which should be good for my bearings as they last me a very long time.
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Old 12-28-2003, 07:42 AM   #2187
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Default Re: Bearings!

Quote:
Originally posted by S710_Nut
Would you guys bother removing the shield from the bearings cleaning them and replacing the oil with a teflon based lub before use?
I use Mobil 1 fully synthetic SAE 0W-40 engine oil to lube my bearings. It gives all the protection the bearing needs. A little bit on the thicker side I would say but I rather have it thick than having to redo my bearings every now and then...

Still, I must say that after running in the brake pads and the belts, my 710 is as smooth as a shaft driven Barracuda battery car !

Quote:
Originally posted by S710_Nut
How often would you clean the bearings? After every meet?
If I use the Mobil 1 engine oil, I only do it once the bearings start to feel gritty. The wheel bearings are the most times I inspect. I don't have a specific schedule to clean my bearings. If I check the 2 speed gearbox or if I have to take out the layshaft or pulleys, I will make an attempt to check the bearings there and clean / lube them as necessary. Else, they stay smooth and lubed.

The trick is to keep them clean after every weekend of before beginning a day's run. I specifically don't try to blow compressed air into the bearings or near them to clear the dirt off after a day's run. I use the Serpent cleaning gum / putty to do this. They are excellent in keeping the external of the bearings clean and dust free without contaminating the bearing internals with dirt.
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Old 12-28-2003, 07:49 AM   #2188
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Quote:
Originally posted by S710_Nut
Those that have run the car, What is the default Clutch setting like? Does it engage early or late? I am going to be running on concrete with rubber tires so i don' want it engaging too high in the power range or all i will ever do is 360 degree spins
For me, I find that it's just nice. It's pretty punchy for a 6.62 1st gear ratio. But then again all this depends on your engine. Like what Goldfinger mentioned, the punch out from standstills and of the corners is quite the same as the higher ratio Mugens. Perhaps it's due to the higher overall power to weight ratio...

To ease out the wheel spins, you may want to try the yellow pad clutch shoe (not the black XP one given with the kit). That will probably give a more linear power to the wheels. Else, use a smaller 1st gear spur or a bigger 1st gear pinion to smoothen out the power surges and mind boggling acceleration !
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Old 12-28-2003, 08:19 AM   #2189
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Another way to ease the punch of the car is to go from 5cell AAA batteries to 4cell batteries it slows down the response of the throttle servo and in my opinon is a much smoother response with better control
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Old 12-28-2003, 08:33 AM   #2190
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Else, use a smaller 1st gear spur or a bigger 1st gear pinion to smoothen out the power surges and mind boggling acceleration !
But then, the engine mount would start rubbing the rear pulley ?
Mine is all still box stock, if I slide the engine to the right, the mount rubs the rear pulley.
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