im sorry guys but I just dont get it, this rear Diff is killing me. First everytime I hit the gas the car spins to the right , then i took the diff apart and tightned it and know it dosent pull to the right but it seems as if i have a solid rear axle, is it supposed to be like this? how im I supposed to know if its to tight, when I hold the car up and turn the rear wheel is the opposite will supposed to spin in the other direction or not because mine dosent bothe wheels go in the same direction. Ive read the rear diff article on mytsn and I just dont understand it or maybe I dont know how a rear diff works, Im new in the rc nitro world and I wanted the best car out so I really dont know what im doing so can someone please shed some light on this situation.



Thanks

710 Lola Shell Pics
 

guys, these are the pics of my latest lola shells. the yellow ones are lola shell by serpent and the red one is by kawahara.

so far, i still can't tell the difference between the two in terms of handling, except the kawahara seems to have a stronger part above the rear wheels.

[yellow lola #1]

[yellow lola #2]

[red lola shell - by kawahara]

Does anyone have the pic of the wiring diagram? The FAQ has a link, but it doesn't work anymore....

This link?

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL115/...2/48523408.jpg

It works for me, still.

Cheers, Mark.

Assuming you've got all the rear ball diff parts in correctly, tighten the E18 screw (using 2.5 mm allen) bit by bit while holding the diff pulley and the opposite axle. Then check the slip of the rear ball diff by holding the left and right diff axles and try and turn the rear diff pulley. The tool below by Serpent helps in doing this the easier way.

http://www.3hobby.net/modules/copper...diff_tool1.JPG

If the rear diff still slips, tighten the E18 screw some more. Perhaps about 5 minute movement. Check the slip again and tighten the E18 screw until you cannot turn the rear diff pulley manually by hand. Then in order to lock the setting permanent, screw in and tighten the H16 set screw while holding the diff pulley and the opposite axle. You should be set.

Don't worry that the diff is a little "tight" and "heavy". After a few runs, the rear diff together with the diff collar will wear in and it's be smooth.

A good tip would be to smear some grease evenly on the polished part of the diff axle before putting on the diff collar. It makes the diff setting easier with the diff collar.

Use Mugen Super Grease for this. Use this grease also on the diff balls. Put some grease on a paper towel and rub the diff balls evenly with the grease on the paper towel before assembling the balls into the rear dif. Use this grease also to lube the Centax clutch thrust bearing.

Forgot to mention this also when building the rear diffs...

"A good tip would be to smear some grease evenly on the polished part of the diff axle before putting on the diff collar. It makes the diff setting easier with the diff collar.

Use Mugen Super Grease for this. Use this grease also on the diff balls. Put some grease on a paper towel and rub the diff balls evenly with the grease on the paper towel before assembling the balls into the rear dif. Use this grease also to lube the Centax clutch thrust bearing.".

Re: 710 Lola Shell Pics
 

redsand, it looks like both are the same. Perhaps both are made by Frewer as I believe the Serpent one is.

Anyway, you should get the Loletta by Frewer. Serpent also carries this. More steering and greater downforce in the front.

Re: Re: 710 Lola Shell Pics
 

Actually there are a couple of things that differ between the two. The Serpent loletta shell is very thin on the side wall above the rear wheel cutouts. Very prone to torn.

The Kawahara one is made for MTX-3 as there are pre-cut lines for the engine and the "mis-aligned" fuel tank - so just cut it off and slap it in on the MTX-3 chassie without needing to align anything.

As for front shock tower, I had to trim it a little, leaving only 2 upper mounting positions instead of three. So the body can be positioned lower reducing air drag underneath the chassie.

All and all, I highly am satisfied with both shells.

BTW, I've seen one dude running Frewer's the other day at local track. It just looked funny, IMHO. :D

Re: Re: Re: 710 Lola Shell Pics
 

With the Loletta, you don't have to modify the front shock tower. It fits fine even when the body is lowered. :nod:

Looks funny but our friends in ID also use the Loletta. :nod:

I find that with the Loletta, the driving characteristics of the car are more aggressive compared to the conventional Lola.

Re: Re: Re: Re: 710 Lola Shell Pics
 

I think Redsand reffering loletta to what we usually called Lola (the yellow one he posted), isn`t it Redsand?

This is what we reffering to Loletta. But I like the Lola better in S710.. Loletta is perfect for Team Magic G4

Pyramid's got it covered for me.
And yes I'm 101% agree Lola fits 710 better. Lolleta is for sumthin else hehehehe...

Re: Re: Re: Re: 710 Lola Shell Pics
 

That is why I'm running 201mm front track width and 205mm rears combined with 32mm rear tires and 26mm front tires. And a 100% deadlocked rear diff helps a lot.

Running a sedan with that setup would sure be an overkill.

Pyramid...has the solid rear arrived yet ?

I only just found the frewer site. Years of thinking they didnt have a web presence. Heaps of info on the loletta. I havent used one, but apparently they come in 3 positions for the driver.

Frewer