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Old 03-17-2005, 06:15 PM   #20671
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Quote:
Originally posted by alucard13
I will try it out. Thanx for the info
There is a tool that will hold the flywheel but I just wrap a rag around it and grab it with channel-lock pliers. Make sure that the clutch nut is not bottoming out on the crankshaft. That will keep the nut from tightening completely.
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Old 03-17-2005, 06:19 PM   #20672
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Default 950R question

Since I cannot find a thread for the 950R I will ask my question here. Do you lean the steering servo lever one tooth forward like you do on the 710? I think you do but I would like some comfirmation. If someone has any info on the lenght of the link, that would be helpful also.

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Old 03-17-2005, 06:25 PM   #20673
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Default Re: 950R question

Quote:
Originally posted by jag
Since I cannot find a thread for the 950R I will ask my question here. Do you lean the steering servo lever one tooth forward like you do on the 710? I think you do but I would like some comfirmation. If someone has any info on the lenght of the link, that would be helpful also.

Thanks,
jag
You don't have to. I made mine upright and adjusted the turnbuckle to center the wheels.
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Old 03-17-2005, 06:45 PM   #20674
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Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
You don't have to. I made mine upright and adjusted the turnbuckle to center the wheels.
I take it your servo saver points straight up the center of the car? Do you get equal steering throw in both directions?
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Old 03-17-2005, 06:50 PM   #20675
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Default Re: Re: Re: 950R question

Quote:
Originally posted by jag
I take it your servo saver points straight up the center of the car? Do you get equal steering throw in both directions?
The only way to get equal throw on steering (in any car brand) is like what you have done on S710. There is no way to adjust servo linkage (servo horn to servo saver linkage) that will then make L/R radius the same while the rest (steering L/R linkage) is untouched.
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Old 03-17-2005, 07:01 PM   #20676
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Default More questions

Sorry guys but I have more questions about the engine. I finally got the flywheel and shaft to co operate with each other (thanx jag).

But I am totally confused about the clutch gap and end play. I know this is probably a difficult question to answer and can only really be determined once you get to the track but can anyone tell me a somewhat neutral setting? Like how many shims to put next to the thrustbearing and what bearings/shims do i put next to the flywheel nut? Example, i see in the manual (step 8.7) that it wants you to put 1 M11 and two U4's (and i dont know what the thing in between the U4's are called) by the flywheel nut? Is this standard and you tweak from their. Or is this only for other things. and in step 8.6 to put 2 shims. are these only for picture purposes or would these be the neutral settings?

Sorry to be such a P.I.T.A guys but I want to get this right as much as I can. I have an RRL3 If that makes any difference.
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Old 03-17-2005, 07:07 PM   #20677
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Default Re: More questions

Quote:
Originally posted by alucard13
Sorry guys but I have more questions about the engine. I finally got the flywheel and shaft to co operate with each other (thanx jag).

But I am totally confused about the clutch gap and end play. I know this is probably a difficult question to answer and can only really be determined once you get to the track but can anyone tell me a somewhat neutral setting? Like how many shims to put next to the thrustbearing and what bearings/shims do i put next to the flywheel nut? Example, i see in the manual (step 8.7) that it wants you to put 1 M11 and two U4's (and i dont know what the thing in between the U4's are called) by the flywheel nut? Is this standard and you tweak from their. Or is this only for other things. and in step 8.6 to put 2 shims. are these only for picture purposes or would these be the neutral settings?

Sorry to be such a P.I.T.A guys but I want to get this right as much as I can. I have an RRL3 If that makes any difference.
The best instructions I have found on clutch setup are by Glenn C. on mytsn. Go to mytsn.com and under columns (I think) you will find an article on "building the perfect centax III clutch" and there is another one, I can't remember the name. Read those and follow his directions and you will be in good shape. It's not hard... it just takes a little time.
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Old 03-17-2005, 07:27 PM   #20678
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Default Re: More questions

Quote:
Originally posted by alucard13
Sorry to be such a P.I.T.A guys but I want to get this right as much as I can. I have an RRL3 If that makes any difference.
alucard13, you will want to read this article as what jag pointed out. It explains the do's and don'ts... The correct definition of the terms used and what settings will give what characteristic to the clutch. A must read.

Hope you also read the ball diff article by Julius.
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Old 03-17-2005, 07:29 PM   #20679
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Default Re: Re: More questions

Quote:
Originally posted by jag
The best instructions I have found on clutch setup are by Glenn C. on mytsn. Go to mytsn.com and under columns (I think) you will find an article on "building the perfect centax III clutch" and there is another one, I can't remember the name. Read those and follow his directions and you will be in good shape. It's not hard... it just takes a little time.
I am printing them as I type. thanx again.
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Old 03-17-2005, 07:51 PM   #20680
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Quote:
Originally posted by alucard13
Is thier a special tool to tighten the clutch nut? When I get to a certain point i cant tighten since the shaft wants to turn. I do want to use pliers and mess up the shaft.
You will want something like this or this to hold the flywheel. The good thing about this tool is that it does not scratch the flywheel is it's easier. With the latter tool, you can use it to check the clutch gap of the Centax clutch.

With the flywheel holder, you also need a wrench to tighten down the 10 mm clutch nut. For this, you could get the Hudy one which also acts as a wrench glowplug and also the other side acts as a 10 mm allen to tighten the aluminum pivot ball retainers in the knuckles. One of the more useful tools in the toolbox for me.
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Old 03-17-2005, 08:05 PM   #20681
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Engine

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
With the flywheel holder, you also need a wrench to tighten down the 10 mm clutch nut. For this, you could get the Hudy one which also acts as a wrench glowplug and also the other side acts as a 10 mm allen to tighten the aluminum pivot ball retainers in the knuckles. One of the more useful tools in the toolbox for me.
The other option is the 3racing tool. Identical to the Hudy one but at a reduced price. Its one of the few non-Hudy tools I use.
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Old 03-17-2005, 11:49 PM   #20682
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Hey guys, its been a year and half since I sold my 710 and was wondering if there has been any improvements or upgrades since then to the car? I currently don't have a 1/10 and am looking into getting another and keeping all my options open, thanks.... Nice to see your still around IntialD
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Old 03-18-2005, 12:12 AM   #20683
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My personal opinion is that the 710 is still the best car out there. The car was definately made better with the introduction of the two-part diff collar and the thicker rear anti roll bars. Also the longer servo saver gives another tuning option.

Best of all, take a look at this article, you'll see basically all the new parts which have been introduced since the 710 was launched Per-Ola Hard's 2005 710

I think the 710s performance will be as good this year as it was last....if not better now that we know our cars better

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 03-18-2005, 12:16 AM   #20684
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Hi SupermaxxRich, yes I'm still around. Good that you're trying to pick up the hobby again.

Anyway, yes... There are some bits of improvement that they bundled in the 710 kit if you get a new one.

To have some idea, look at the article by Serpent team drive Per-Ola.

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10965

Well, he did add some optional parts and hop ups but the basic thing is there.
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Old 03-18-2005, 12:17 AM   #20685
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Ooophs, Mark's RING is more powerful...
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