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Old 01-30-2005, 06:55 AM   #19831
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Yeah and we all know which Mini you're thinking about.......skirt!!!
That's what happens when you get involved into too much webcams.
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Old 01-30-2005, 06:57 AM   #19832
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No I don't. Why would I?
Obviously not thinking straight
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Old 01-30-2005, 06:58 AM   #19833
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Originally posted by markp27
Obviously not thinking straight
Too expensive to be carrying it around. Much better to be spending it on RC stuff... No?
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Old 01-30-2005, 07:22 AM   #19834
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Originally posted by InitialD
Too expensive to be carrying it around. Much better to be spending it on RC stuff... No?
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Old 01-30-2005, 07:30 AM   #19835
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
No. He took the front ball diff axles and pulley and physically locked it. So there's no more diff action on his front "ball diff" anymore. Don't know the details but Uncle Crash thought he heard him say that he locked the front ball diff with a glue. I actually did not take a close pic of it but he took off the diff collar too as it was not required.
This solution comes from the Worlds in Brazil. While looking for a better setup, one of the team drivers installed the front rigid axle using the one way (Kyosho drivers were using locked front diffs). As a result, the shaft adapters broke in the inner end. I have seen the same situation in my track.
The solution they found was to dismantle the front diff and make some holes (not pass thru holes) in the plates using a Dremel, so the balls will settle in those holes and the diff action will stop. This is why the adjuster is not needed anymore. I didnít see the diff dismantled, so I donít know how many holes and balls they used. I guess three would be enough. The bad side is the front diff weights considerably more than the locked oneway.

What shaft adapters have you been using D?

I plan give 3Racing's shaft adapters a try to check if they are better quality than Serpent's.

Soo bad that 710's drivetrain metallic parts are so low quality.
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Old 01-30-2005, 10:39 AM   #19836
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up

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Originally posted by Fernando_M
This solution comes from the Worlds in Brazil.
I would have guessed as much since Fabio drove in the WC. Thanks for the information Fernando.

Quote:
Originally posted by Fernando_M
The solution they found was to dismantle the front diff and make some holes (not pass thru holes) in the plates using a Dremel, so the balls will settle in those holes and the diff action will stop.
Ok... So they make dimples in the diff plates? But that would destroy and render the diff useless right? Unless you change the plates...

Quote:
Originally posted by Fernando_M
The bad side is the front diff weights considerably more than the locked oneway.
True. That's why Fabio said that he would only used that solution in a long main and not for a short heat or so.

Quote:
Originally posted by Fernando_M
What shaft adapters have you been using D?

I plan give 3Racing's shaft adapters a try to check if they are better quality than Serpent's.

Soo bad that 710's drivetrain metallic parts are so low quality.
I've been using Serpent's only. Perhaps it's good luck on my part but I've not busted an outdrive but only one incident where I scrapped against the sidewall while throttling out on power. When do you find them breaking? I find the drivetrain metallic parts durable. Which other parts are you referring to that are of low quality?

BTW, you should very well know by now that we run very high powered outlaw engines on our side and driving on smaller tracks mean that we brake hard very often too.
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Old 01-30-2005, 03:01 PM   #19837
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up

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Originally posted by InitialD
I would have guessed as much since Fabio drove in the WC. Thanks for the information Fernando.
I think the idea came from Michael Salven or Rene. Not sure.

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Ok... So they make dimples in the diff plates? But that would destroy and render the diff useless right? Unless you change the plates...
Right. Dimples is a better description for that. Yes, plates will be ruined, but they are not that expensive, and you may win a race!


Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I've been using Serpent's only. Perhaps it's good luck on my part but I've not busted an outdrive but only one incident where I scrapped against the sidewall while throttling out on power. When do you find them breaking? I find the drivetrain metallic parts durable. Which other parts are you referring to that are of low quality?
I know that Mark Green tried the locked oneway at the worlds and it broke. Not sure how (crashing or breaking?) or where it broke.
Last one I saw broken at my track was in the hole where the pin locks. Not sure if it was after a crash or heavy breaking.

We have found that the diff outdrives, dogbones and wheel axles are low quality. The wheel axles wear very fast (sometimes as soon as after 2 or 3 hours of use), when the dogbone's pin makes a groove inside the wheelaxle. This brings a lot of play to the drivetrain. Same thing happens on the diff side. I started using the Pro wheelaxles (801214) from the very beginning, and the problem was reduced to a minimum. I changed the diff outdrives after 9 months of use, by keeping the play to a minimum, after they started to develop a little play. However, some others had to change them after only 3 or 4 races. As a preventive measure, we change the dogbones pins very often (every 2 o 3 races), and use a longer pin in the diff side (Impact rear inside pin) to reduce play and wear to a minimum. Problem with dogbones is that they break much easily in a crash than old Impact front ones, so some people changed them. Of course, you are not supposed to crash, but sometimes, somehow, in some mysterious ways, it just happens!.

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
BTW, you should very well know by now that we run very high powered outlaw engines on our side and driving on smaller tracks mean that we brake hard very often too.
Thats what the legend says...
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Old 01-30-2005, 03:25 PM   #19838
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
You said it Taylor-Racing - D, Think Different is passe You need to think shuffle now
Yes, D shows classic symptoms of iPod denial.

The shuffle is the go for these poor people . . . . . errr . . . I mean "this market segment", as it's smaller and allows them to keep it hidden from their peers.
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Old 01-30-2005, 06:34 PM   #19839
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Default Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up

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Originally posted by InitialD
Ah ! Then you're really knocking or scrubbing the side walls / side planks or side kebs or the track while on throttle ! I had that once happen to me.
Have you been spy on my driving!
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Old 01-30-2005, 06:36 PM   #19840
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I would be interested to know how different it is using this 21T side pulley against Pyramid / Goldfinger's 46T rear diff pulley...

Pyramid / Goldfinger, has this 21T aluminum pulley arrived on your shores yet?
Doy you have to buy the whole rear diff for this 46T or will it fit straight on to the 710
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Old 01-30-2005, 07:08 PM   #19841
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Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Yes, D shows classic symptoms of iPod denial.
Ipod denial my <tuut>...

Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
The shuffle is the go for these poor people . . . . . errr . . . I mean "this market segment", as it's smaller and allows them to keep it hidden from their peers.
Shuffle or the real thing... Just send me one and I'll put a good word for Apple. Promise.
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Old 01-30-2005, 07:11 PM   #19842
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brett.w
Doy you have to buy the whole rear diff for this 46T or will it fit straight on to the 710
The 46T comes from the Serpent 705 rear diff pulley. The 705 rear diff is pretty similar to the 710. The diff plates and balls are the same together with some internal parts. Just the diff outdrives are different. So you can just drop the 46T rear pulley in. But remember, the rear belt would be tighter now. So using the bearing cam, set it looser.

I believe if you're using the old diff collar, you would have problems with the M3 screw head of the diff collar rubbing against the bearing block. I think the newer 2 piece diff collar would escape this...
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Old 01-30-2005, 07:33 PM   #19843
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up

Quote:
Originally posted by Fernando_M
I think the idea came from Michael Salven or Rene. Not sure.


[QUOTE]Originally posted by Fernando_M
[B]Right. Dimples is a better description for that. Yes, plates will be ruined, but they are not that expensive, and you may win a race!

True. I think after racing for a while, you'd probably have some spare plates in the toolbox that you would have discarded.

Quote:
Originally posted by Fernando_M
We have found that the diff outdrives, dogbones and wheel axles are low quality. The wheel axles wear very fast (sometimes as soon as after 2 or 3 hours of use), when the dogbone's pin makes a groove inside the wheelaxle. This brings a lot of play to the drivetrain. Same thing happens on the diff side. I started using the Pro wheelaxles (801214) from the very beginning, and the problem was reduced to a minimum. I changed the diff outdrives after 9 months of use, by keeping the play to a minimum, after they started to develop a little play. However, some others had to change them after only 3 or 4 races. As a preventive measure, we change the dogbones pins very often (every 2 o 3 races), and use a longer pin in the diff side (Impact rear inside pin) to reduce play and wear to a minimum. Problem with dogbones is that they break much easily in a crash than old Impact front ones, so some people changed them. Of course, you are not supposed to crash, but sometimes, somehow, in some mysterious ways, it just happens!.
Oh those things... Well, you know Paolo very well don't you? Why not make complaints directly?

I'm using the PRO drive cups. No Impact dogbones. Did modifications on the pin like the ones on the Impact / 705 for the rear dogbone. No problems in the PRO drive cups. No wear at all. I've found the rear diff outdrive to be longer lasting with the longer pin modification on one side of the rear dogbone. After several tanks of playing, I've not noticed any notches or dimples in the diff outdrives except for this first time I did the modification, the diff still wore on one side but I found out that one of the pins I installed was not symetrical and hence the problem ! Duh. That mod is certainly a keeper.

Anyway, I also changed the dogbone pins from time to time as they flatten out after constant usage. What I do to pro-long the usage of these pins is to knock them out, turn them 90 degrees and knock them back in. You'll get a "new" pin.

Quote:
Originally posted by Fernando_M
Thats what the legend says...
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Old 01-30-2005, 07:35 PM   #19844
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Solid Front Axle set up

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Originally posted by Brett.w
Have you been spy on my driving!
I try.
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Old 01-30-2005, 09:52 PM   #19845
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Luckily I have more front belts than the rear ones. If you know what I mean.


Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
A nice find !

This 21T is suppose to go in the front at the mid bearing block to replace the stock 22T side pulley.

The stock 22T gives about 1 mm split (i.e. you need 1 mm smaller front tire than the rear tire to give a 1:1 overdrive). With the 21T pulley, it'll give about 4 mm tire split ! So if you run 64 mm rear tires, you need to use 60 mm front tires to get 1:1 overdrive.

Else, you could use this 21T pulley as a tuning aid. A lot of people put there like to run the car with front overdrive. Especially on short tighter tracks, it is nice to pull the cars out of tight corners.

Ummm, I guess with this first pulley being aluminum, Serpent would come out with an onslaugh of aluminum pulleys for the rest of the car...

p/s: I notice Serpent is listening to more of the requirements of racers who run on shorter tracks. Also new is the 20T pinion (802520) which is suppose to give a higher 2nd gear ratio from 5.09 (57/21 combo) to 5.34 (57/20 combo).
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