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Old 01-21-2005, 10:52 PM   #19651
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Default Re: Re: Re: Clutch behavior

Quote:
Originally posted by clmbia45
I'll bet that Mark has this in his bible: Initial D and I discussed the modification of the shoes which allows them to float freely and they reliably engage and after a year, am running without problems. Initial D posted some grat pics with directions: worth the trouble to find!
jack
I looked over Mark's FAQ again and checked out the clutch mods section. I read all the referenced links. I will start out trying the yellow clutch shoe and harder spring to see how I like it. If I don't like that, I will try InitialD's flywieght mod.

Thanks for everyones help.

Bruce
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Old 01-21-2005, 11:29 PM   #19652
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Default Re: Re: Re: Clutch behavior

Quote:
Originally posted by clmbia45
I'll bet that Mark has this in his bible: Initial D and I discussed the modification of the shoes which allows them to float freely and they reliably engage and after a year, am running without problems. Initial D posted some grat pics with directions: worth the trouble to find!
jack
Yap... that mod is good alternative.
But, somehow in particular corner it mades clutch disenggage not properly. Its like low-needle is too lean but its not.
I am not 100% sure, but after back to the stock one (flyweight) the sympton is gone.
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Old 01-22-2005, 10:00 AM   #19653
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Default Re: Clutch behavior

Quote:
Originally posted by slawsonb
I hope someone can help me understand proper clutch adjustment and expected behavior. I have read the FAQ and everything on proper clutch adjustment but it doesn't seem to behave right.

When the clutch is cold it wont engage at all or just slightly. As it gets hot it starts working better. After about 3 minutes of hard clutch use it finally seems to be grippy enough or somethings so hard hitting that the car may try to spin out.

I have taken the clutch apart several times and re shimmed. I am currently about .5mm play. The only thing that gets the car to move at all is loosening the spring nut so it can engage earlier.

The initail slipping and such wouldn't be too bad on a large track but my local track is very small with many tight turns that have me on and off the throttle continuously.

I am a newbie to on-road nitro but have lots of off road experience. Is the centax 3 clutch supposed to act like is described? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
There is actually another method of setting up the clutch gap and end-play which I much prefer.

I find the push-pull method prone to error - sometimes large.

Here's what I do:

In step 8.6 place as many shims as you have on the thrustbearing carrier and fit it as shown in step 8.6 as if you were going to use the push-pull method.

Now try pushing and pulling the clutch bell - if there is any movement, add some more shims to the thrustbearing carrier.

Once you have no push-pull movement anymore, remove a 0.1mm shim. Remount the clutch bell and check for push-pull movemnet. Continue to remove 0.1mm shims until there is a slight movement.
Once, you have some movement you can remove 0.6mm worth of shims and this will give you a clutch gap of between 0.6 and 0.7.mm - which should be perfect for most situations.

Now move onto step 8.7 and again add as many end-play shims as you have. Mount the clutch bell with the metal shielded bearings and check for end-play. If there is end-play....add more shims.
Once you have no end-play, start to remove the 0.1mm shims. As soon as you feel a bit of end play, remove one more 0.1mm shim. This will give you just the right amount of end-play.

After running your car - if you feel you want a smaller or bigger clutch gap, simply add (for smaller clutch gap) or remove (for bigger clutch gap) a 0.1mm shim from the thrustbearing carrier. NOTE! You must compensate for the new clutch gap by adding (if you remove a thrustbearing shim) or removing (if you added a thrustbearing shim) one of the end-play shims - the shim must be the same thickness as the added or removed thrustbearing shim.

Hope that's clear.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 01-22-2005, 10:07 AM   #19654
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Default Re: Re: Re: Clutch behavior

Quote:
Originally posted by clmbia45
I'll bet that Mark has this in his bible: Initial D and I discussed the modification of the shoes which allows them to float freely and they reliably engage and after a year, am running without problems. Initial D posted some grat pics with directions: worth the trouble to find!
jack
The old bible does need an update now - I have a couple of things to add, but it'll have to wait until after the Winternats.

Any of you boys got any tips/improvments which are mentioned in the FAQ? PM me if you want them included.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 01-23-2005, 06:49 AM   #19655
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Cool Check list

Mark,
just to keep dreaming about a future trip in florida with luggage full of my favorite toys, i would really enjoy to have your detailed list of stuffs for the winter nats. you will be certainly overweighted at the flight checkin...
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Old 01-23-2005, 07:18 AM   #19656
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Default Re: Check list

Quote:
Originally posted by pelos
Mark,
just to keep dreaming about a future trip in florida with luggage full of my favorite toys, i would really enjoy to have your detailed list of stuffs for the winter nats. you will be certainly overweighted at the flight checkin...
*faint* *thud*
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Old 01-23-2005, 07:27 AM   #19657
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Default Re: Check list

Hmm, lets see now - 1x PC, 1x VRC

Well, I'll certainly have my two 710s with me, both kitted out with diffs front and rear - I don't like the idea of a one-way on the Ft Myers track.
I'm currently preparing 3 Mazda 6 body shells + the one I already have.
I'll be taking a minimal number of tyres, as it'll be cheaper for me to get them at the track due to the exchange rates.
I'm taking a JP-Fx03 and am collecting a Mega at the track.
Yeah, there's my tools, spares, charger, setup gear, stand, hudy board, starter *oooof* heavy!! My radio.

I'll be putting as much heavy stuff in my laptop bag to get it up to the allowd 10kg and the rest in my suitcase.

Well, back to the shell painting.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 01-23-2005, 07:35 AM   #19658
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Default Re: Re: Check list

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Originally posted by markp27
*faint* *thud*
too hard kopf to understand...

Last edited by pelos; 01-23-2005 at 08:21 AM.
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Old 01-23-2005, 08:16 AM   #19659
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Default Re: Re: Check list

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Hmm, lets see now - 1x PC, 1x VRC

Well, I'll certainly have my two 710s with me, both kitted out with diffs front and rear - I don't like the idea of a one-way on the Ft Myers track.
I'm currently preparing 3 Mazda 6 body shells + the one I already have.
I'll be taking a minimal number of tyres, as it'll be cheaper for me to get them at the track due to the exchange rates.
I'm taking a JP-Fx03 and am collecting a Mega at the track.
Yeah, there's my tools, spares, charger, setup gear, stand, hudy board, starter *oooof* heavy!! My radio.

I'll be putting as much heavy stuff in my laptop bag to get it up to the allowd 10kg and the rest in my suitcase.

Well, back to the shell painting.

Cheers, Mark.
Good to find tyres at cheap price
Which brand you think?
Post some pics of the shells when you're finished!
Did you managed the 40MHz issue?
Will you do the roar at the track?

In bocca al lupo!!!

Fabio

Last edited by pelos; 01-23-2005 at 08:22 AM.
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Old 01-23-2005, 08:56 AM   #19660
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Default Re: Re: Re: Check list

Quote:
Originally posted by pelos
Good to find tyres at cheap price
Which brand you think?
Either the Serpent Ellegi or whatever is recommended locally.

Quote:
Post some pics of the shells when you're finished!
I certainly will - the scheme will be very simple, as I hate doing shells

Quote:
Did you managed the 40MHz issue?
shhh

Quote:
Will you do the roar at the track?
I think everyone has to be a ROAR member, so I have to take the membership out when I get there.

Quote:
In bocca al lupo!!!
too hard for my Kopf!

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 01-23-2005, 09:40 AM   #19661
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Default Re: Re: Check list

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27


Well, I'll certainly have my two 710s with me, both kitted out with diffs front and rear - I don't like the idea of a one-way on the Ft Myers track.
careful there, the 'Prophet' might call you a 'wooz' for using diffs.
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:12 AM   #19662
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Default Re: Re: Re: Check list

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Originally posted by crashed_1
careful there, the 'Prophet' might call you a 'wooz' for using diffs.
Ahem, did I say Diffs I meant hardcore one-ways *cough*
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:48 AM   #19663
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Default Re: Re: Check list

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
[B]Hmm, lets see now - 1x PC, 1x VRC
Good start!

Quote:
Well, I'll certainly have my two 710s with me, both kitted out with diffs front and rear - I don't like the idea of a one-way on the Ft Myers track.
I'm currently preparing 3 Mazda 6 body shells + the one I already have.
I'll be taking a minimal number of tyres, as it'll be cheaper for me to get them at the track due to the exchange rates.
I'm taking a JP-Fx03 and am collecting a Mega at the track.
Yeah, there's my tools, spares, charger, setup gear, stand, hudy board, starter *oooof* heavy!! My radio.

I'll be putting as much heavy stuff in my laptop bag to get it up to the allowd 10kg and the rest in my suitcase.

Well, back to the shell painting.

Cheers, Mark.
You forgot the the digital camera and an FTP connection old man!
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:50 AM   #19664
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Check list

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Originally posted by markp27
Ahem, did I say Diffs I meant hardcore one-ways *cough*
Yeah right ... front AND rear!
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:51 AM   #19665
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Default Re: Re: Re: Check list

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Originally posted by Sow&Steady
You forgot the the digital camera and an FTP connection old man!
DOH!
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