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Old 11-05-2003, 06:26 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally posted by loosenut
HOw come threads always end up having something to do with KY?!?!
It is because fish has forgotten WD40 ! he should have mentioned KY as well as WD40.
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Old 11-05-2003, 11:33 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally posted by stefan
Dino,

I took the 0.2 mm shim out of smarty's engine and replaced it with a 0.1mm, so total shim thickness is 0.4 mm.

I did this because the engine never got up to temp at first.

BTW, he's running it in a MTX3 with a RD Logics outlaw turbo pipe.
Hi Stefan,

Please let me know where is his problem?Needle adjustment?No bottom punch?Not enough top speed?...etc.Then I can give you my suggestion.Thanks Bro.
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Old 11-06-2003, 02:02 AM   #63
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Originally posted by dino.tw
First I found his engine is easy to die out on low-mid revs.His car is LD3 with RDLogic pipe.As my experience with this RDLogic pipe for NTC3/LD3,I made the pressure-line about 27cm.It's better now but still easy to die out.
Can I ask you something, Dino? Did you shorten the pressure line, or made it longer?

About the break-in by hand method, I talked to my friend, and tried to get their help to translate it into English... it is not easy lo.
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Old 11-06-2003, 06:52 AM   #64
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Quote:
About the break-in by hand method, I talked to my friend, and tried to get their help to translate it into English... it is not easy lo.
Try this link Wangcc,[URL=http://http://rbproducts.com/rbww/ubb/cgi-...ic;f=4;t=000096] This is the RB method.
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Old 11-06-2003, 08:23 AM   #65
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sorry that didn't work
http://rbproducts.com/rbww/ubb/cgi-b...c;f=4;t=000096

This one does.
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Old 11-06-2003, 09:05 AM   #66
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Hey Dino, you should make a new thread and call it STS - Ask Dino thread....hehe

Hand break in? Just what is the proper way of breaking in an engine? There are two groups of peeps on this topic. ONe is to idle it one tank and then run the car at very VERY rich settings and adjust the high end slowly as the temp comes down tank after tank. Another way is to just idle the darn thing like 10 tanks or something and then run the car in rich like 1 or 2 tanks then tune it. These two methods are not even remotely close. I've been told that idling the engine many tanks will kill the conrod - so maybe that's most people's problem when they break their STS engine (or any other engine for that matter) using this method. I mean your engine will be broken in but you'll need to change the conrod.

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Old 11-06-2003, 09:55 AM   #67
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so loosenut
if there are two groups and both are wrong then how do you run in a motor the right way?
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Old 11-06-2003, 12:06 PM   #68
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Everyweek i have to run-in many set of piston and sleeve for test,and here is the method that i use and it save up a lot of time and run in fuel for me.Also protect the conrod.

***Warning***

Clean your piston and sleeve with dishwashing liquid(detergent). Then use some dentifrice(tooth powder) with water between the piston and sleeve. Polish the piston and sleeve slowly and rotate the piston while you pushing the piston in and out the sleeve. This will ensure perfect roundness of the piston and sleeve bedding in.But don't over do it,you will lose compression. To ensure you don't over do it, use the old combustion chamber to fit on the sleeve without head shim.But you still have to control the process time.

Why I choice dentifrice(tooth powder),because it's easy to be cleaned up with water.Other abrasive is hard to clean fully. When you finish the process,clean the piston and sleeve with dishwashing liquid(detergent) and toothbrush fully. Then use hair dryer to remove the water. Well,you can put them into your engine and follow the original break-in method.You will find that you don't need so many time to break-in a engine.

Last edited by dino.tw; 11-06-2003 at 01:43 PM.
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Old 11-06-2003, 12:23 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally posted by wangcc61
Can I ask you something, Dino? Did you shorten the pressure line, or made it longer?
Made it longer.
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Old 11-06-2003, 12:27 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally posted by loosenut
Hey Dino, you should make a new thread and call it STS - Ask Dino thread....heheG
Great idea!But It sounds like what the World Champion do,and... I'm not.lol...hahaha....
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Old 11-06-2003, 12:29 PM   #71
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.

Last edited by dino.tw; 11-06-2003 at 12:41 PM.
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Old 11-06-2003, 02:03 PM   #72
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DinosWorldChampCustomerservicerep.com
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Old 11-06-2003, 04:22 PM   #73
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Dino,I bought the D5 for several reasons,one being your passion to help if there was any problems.
I am very glad you want to help me and I didnt mean to make people think I was badmouthing your products.
I will PM you all the info you wantas soon as I get some measurments.
I say again to all you guys;Dino was one of the main reasons I bought the Dragon!!
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Old 11-06-2003, 04:35 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fisher890
so loosenut
if there are two groups and both are wrong then how do you run in a motor the right way?
I didn't say they are wrong. Just simply stating that there are several ways that people tend to break in their engines. I've done both. Both will do the job of breaking in an engine. But by idling it many tanks - the conrod tend to get loose. So...I don't think you really need to idle a new engine too many tanks.

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Old 11-06-2003, 05:46 PM   #75
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Quote:
These two methods are not even remotely close.
...
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