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Old 10-28-2003, 05:10 PM   #1
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Default Engin Break-In?

Hi! I am new to nitro and not sure this question hav been ask or not... My doubt is how we know that the engin is break-in properly? Anyway that I can check it out? Thanks!!!
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Old 10-28-2003, 06:00 PM   #2
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When you roll the piston over at tdc, it should be smooth. Tight but it shouldnt feel as though it is scraping. Its kind of hard to explain.
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Old 10-28-2003, 06:14 PM   #3
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Default break in

After you go thru your break in procedure,if you are confident taking the head off then look inside the top of the sleeve, if you see a very polished area toward the top of the sleeve then the motor should be ready for full tuning.
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Old 10-28-2003, 10:06 PM   #4
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if you go by the break in from the instructions it should be ready to go..
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Old 10-29-2003, 02:43 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by sparksy
When you roll the piston over at tdc, it should be smooth. Tight but it shouldnt feel as though it is scraping. Its kind of hard to explain.
I agree with this statement... a broken in engine should be tight at TDC -of course- but the piston shouldn't stick at the top.

The most apparent and foolproof way of telling if an engine is fully broken in, is of course when the engine's performance really picks up. But this also depends on your tuning ability... use the physical indicators as a guide, but the main factor is of course performance.
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Old 10-29-2003, 05:24 PM   #6
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HUH!!! It's seems more complicated than electric car.... How about the tuning part? I think I will get the OS 12TRP(T) 5 ports engin... any tuning trick on this engin? Thanks again...
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Old 11-01-2003, 04:06 AM   #7
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I have broken in my engines as told by my LHS and its usually running it rich at about 38-40 degrees celcius for say 10 tanks. If you are talking about your modded 5 ports (Rody, Massimo, JP Black etc) then about 18-20 tanks will be great.

Just let the engine run on full throttle at 38-40 degrees celcius and after that just tune your engine up as recommended by the manufacturer.
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Old 11-01-2003, 09:26 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by tIANcI
I have broken in my engines as told by my LHS and its usually running it rich at about 38-40 degrees celcius for say 10 tanks. If you are talking about your modded 5 ports (Rody, Massimo, JP Black etc) then about 18-20 tanks will be great.

Just let the engine run on full throttle at 38-40 degrees celcius and after that just tune your engine up as recommended by the manufacturer.
is a bit too cold for that temp to use for run in. 65-75C will be more appropriate for heat cycle
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Old 11-02-2003, 08:19 PM   #9
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tl2111 - when you run it that much hotter, how many tanks do you run it in for?
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Old 11-02-2003, 10:00 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by tIANcI
tl2111 - when you run it that much hotter, how many tanks do you run it in for?
3 or 4 tank, use good fuel!!! make sure U R monitor it, use the main needle to control temp it should have lots of smoke. if you run in engine in your car then unwind your clutch nut abit, make sure let engine cool down at BDC before the next tank. After that 1/8th of a turn on the top until it has reasonable good power 3-4 tank in this setting. (bob the uncle).

You will found 70C degree is not that hot for engine, and after run in you should change the rod.

hope this help
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Old 11-02-2003, 10:24 PM   #11
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Change my conrod after running in? This makes no financial sense ...
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Old 11-02-2003, 10:42 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by tIANcI
Change my conrod after running in? This makes no financial sense ...
rod is the cheapest part to make the engine last, since your new engine is tight, it has more drag and require more force to push the pitson up and most of the time when finish break in the rod has been worn or have play or worst case the rod has stretch(which change the timing)and when the rod broke usually your P/S set will gone as well cause by the broke pieces of rod, so is up to you but I would change it because rod its only fracton of the P/S set.
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Old 11-02-2003, 11:38 PM   #13
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tl2111 - I don't know but after running in my engine and playing for like a couple of months the conrod is still firmly in place, hardly any free play. I mean if there is free play after 5 tanks of running in then how will the conrod last when we push it up to 38K rpm?
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Old 11-03-2003, 12:46 AM   #14
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I GUESS this is what is why (some/many?) people change their conrods after running in:

The rational for changing conrods directly after running-in the engine is based on wear and tear on the conrod caused by the overly tight piston/sleeve when new and also because the richer than usual mixture.

Once you complete the run-in process, the piston/sleeve would have much less friction and hence easier on the conrod. Most likely, you would be running leaner and hence even less stress on the conrod.

What is probably the argument for your last statement is that 5 tanks of running-in rich is probably more stressful to the conrod than pushing it past 38K rpm...

Anyway, I only owned 4 engines before and I never changed the conrods after running in, however, I may do so if the need arises after break-in.
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Old 11-03-2003, 08:02 AM   #15
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Kenneth ... Singaporean so formal one is it? Hehehehe ... how is the scene there? Coming to KL?
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