R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-03-2003, 08:51 AM   #16
Tech Regular
 
Old Skool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 342
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by tIANcI
I have broken in my engines as told by my LHS and its usually running it rich at about 38-40 degrees celcius for say 10 tanks. If you are talking about your modded 5 ports (Rody, Massimo, JP Black etc) then about 18-20 tanks will be great.

Just let the engine run on full throttle at 38-40 degrees celcius and after that just tune your engine up as recommended by the manufacturer.
10 tanks? 18-20?! That makes no sense. ABC engines need heat to break-in properly...the number of ports make no difference in break-in procedure. Your LHS is giving you the wrong info, the preferred method these days is to idle one tank at factory carb settings, keepign the temp around 200-210F, then proceed to run it. Don't forget to change the glow-plug after the initial break-in (break-in particles usually contaminate the element). Use the same fuel you plan on running with, as well. ABC engines may be a bit finicky until that first gallon of fuel is burned, then they will begin to make true power.

Con-rods should not have to be changed out after initial running in, I've never heard this before. Never changed one until excess play develops in the big-end bushing...
Old Skool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2003, 09:27 AM   #17
Tech Elite
 
Tabushi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Chile - Southamerica
Posts: 3,029
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Tabushi Send a message via Yahoo to Tabushi
Default

Usually my engines just receive 1 tank at idle, 4-5 tanks playing idle-mid power-full power with a good amount of smoke but not toooooo rich ... and after that a couple more tanks at that setting on the track ... after that just fine tunning and race ...
__________________
Patricio "PATO" Concha

E-Mail : [email protected]
Facebook : http://www.facebook.com/patoconcha
Whatsapp : +56 9 66165085
Tabushi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2003, 09:43 AM   #18
Tech Master
 
tIANcI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Posts: 1,737
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Old Skool
10 tanks? 18-20?! That makes no sense. ABC engines need heat to break-in properly...the number of ports make no difference in break-in procedure. Your LHS is giving you the wrong info, the preferred method these days is to idle one tank at factory carb settings, keepign the temp around 200-210F, then proceed to run it. Don't forget to change the glow-plug after the initial break-in (break-in particles usually contaminate the element). Use the same fuel you plan on running with, as well. ABC engines may be a bit finicky until that first gallon of fuel is burned, then they will begin to make true power.

Con-rods should not have to be changed out after initial running in, I've never heard this before. Never changed one until excess play develops in the big-end bushing...
Wait a minute ... how does one idle at 200 degrees? From what you are saying you only run one tank at idle and then proceed to run the car on track and that after a gallon or so the engine will sorta peak?
tIANcI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2003, 08:12 PM   #19
Tech Regular
 
Old Skool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 342
Default

Yep. Keep that temp gun handy. There's no use to have an engine running slobbering rich on the starter box with a huge puddle of fuel beside the stinger. Back in the day when I got my first ABC engine(HPI .12R, anyone remember those?), I idled it so rich I could hold my hand on the head forever, and this continued for like, 8 tanks. I thought that was the thing to do. Well, the engine lasted forever (I still have it today), but never reached its full power potential. When I rebuilt it earlier this summer, I installed a new piston and sleeve set...same conrod, mind...stuck a new MC-59 plug in and idled that puppy for one tank, adjusting the carb so that the temps remained in the 200F range. Tossed the now-contaminated plug for a fresh one, installed it in my XXX-NT along with an AE pipe, and ran it. Temps stayed in the 220F range for the first gallon, then it woke up. Truth to tell, even for a rotary-carbed, side-exhaust engine with "only" 1hp, I'm afraid to lean it out to full race temps (240-260F) because the truck is barely controllable as it is.
Old Skool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2003, 08:14 PM   #20
Tech Regular
 
Old Skool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 342
Default

Oh, and some of the hardcore racers don't even idle one tank. They disassemble and inspect a new engine, stick it in the car and go race. The engines can take the heat.
Old Skool is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2003, 12:38 PM   #21
Tech Master
 
mop_iko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: JOHOR BAHRU, MALAYSIA but now working in SHANGHAI
Posts: 1,797
Default BREAK IN PROCEDURE - for reference

ok... this one i got from nitroreview.com

only for reference... as a start... at least you know what to prepare, what to do and what to expect.

mop
Attached Files
File Type: zip how do i break in my engine.zip (36.3 KB, 52 views)
mop_iko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2003, 12:41 PM   #22
Tech Master
 
mop_iko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: JOHOR BAHRU, MALAYSIA but now working in SHANGHAI
Posts: 1,797
Default BREAK IN PROCEDURE - for reference

Got this from http://harcohobbies.com/articles/nitro_break_in.asp
Nice and easy to understand…thanks to ROB..


HPIR40 manual said... you should use the NITRO % that you want to use AFTER BREAK IN... in short... if you intend to use 25% for running your car... then you should use 25% during the break in process no need to use lower %. That is what being said in the HPIR40 manual.

mop
Attached Files
File Type: zip rc nitro engine break-in 10.zip (19.1 KB, 26 views)
mop_iko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2003, 10:01 PM   #23
Tech Champion
 
jfc_tech's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: www.JonehRC.com
Posts: 7,000
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to jfc_tech
Default

Thanks for all the infos guys. Im newbie in engine treatment. I never break in an engine B4 coz i always ask the shop owner, who sold me the engine, duhh...to do it. If its not done properly, i will not buy it from him.

no harm done to any animal here
__________________
If you are in front of me, That's because I let you!
jfc_tech is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
ae .15 engin question! aoizip Electric Off-Road 6 07-13-2004 10:37 PM
Engin Sealing Thunder racer Nitro On-Road 5 10-15-2003 02:45 AM
Engin Madam Lee Malaysian R/C Racers 12 09-02-2003 11:00 PM
can't get the carb off my engin NTC3 Racer Nitro On-Road 1 06-21-2003 07:46 PM
break in an engin bob's tc3 Electric Off-Road 8 01-11-2003 10:02 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:34 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net