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Old 01-15-2009, 05:49 PM   #16
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I'd say go with a Mugen. The only reason for my choice is because I drive a Mugen!!!!

Go with the one that has the best support at your track and in your area.


Pass you soon...
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Old 01-15-2009, 06:34 PM   #17
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I`d say go with muuugen if you like to replace spur gears on a minute by minute basis. I had that car for about 3 races, and then promptly sold it because of the little problems that car had. And man i never regretted it.
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Old 01-16-2009, 01:46 AM   #18
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I've recently stepped up and bought a racing nitro TC. Thing is I like being the oddball and ended up getting a TM G4+ Evo. I love it and sometimes I just sit there at the bench staring at how freaking pretty the damn thing is!
Thing is, things break and Team Magic parts aren't exactly overflowing at VRC or SWR (the 2 tracks I frequent). Wolf Hobbies ships pretty quick but it's one thing to wait 2 days as opposed to 2 minutes it takes to run inside the shop and grab something.
In hindsight I probably would've gone with one of the 2 cars you mentioned. At the time I was considering all the top cars. I really loved the Kyosho but all the guys who got the latest one seemed to be having problems with theirs. The XRay looked sweet but was turned off by $35 CVD's (for one!) I really really liked the 720 but at the time Serpent seemed to be in the dumps. The Mugen straight up rocks, but I couldn't shake the thought of an MTX5 coming out soon.
Still, I'm happy getting the +Evo but given an extra week I probably would've went Mugen since parts are very easy to get.
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Old 01-16-2009, 06:46 AM   #19
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order more part's than actually needed....i.e. 10 of all part's you frequently break on a regular basis...then you don't need the LHS as much..except for tires and bodies and fuel....
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Old 01-16-2009, 06:59 AM   #20
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order more part's than actually needed....i.e. 10 of all part's you frequently break on a regular basis...then you don't need the LHS as much..except for tires and bodies and fuel....

i agree with you but not 10!

usually i'll keep about 2, which i feel is enough for me.
as your driving gets better, the replacement of parts will get lesser!

p.s. between serpent and mugen: SERPENT
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Old 01-16-2009, 07:50 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by keavze View Post

i agree with you but not 10!

usually i'll keep about 2, which i feel is enough for me.
as your driving gets better, the replacement of parts will get lesser!

p.s. between serpent and mugen: SERPENT
Sometimes, it is better to have more than enough parts than not enough. Also, you could sell the excess to those that break and don't have that part and recoup some of your money (I do it all the time, especially at tracks that don't have a hobby shop on site).
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Old 01-16-2009, 08:35 AM   #22
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I think 10 is a little excessive I normally keep 1-2 of every part. but it is all on how good your driving skills are. When I ran the NTC3 I kepts in upwards of 12 extra diff cases and pillow balls. When I switched to mugen I did the same thing and I've only used one set of front knuckles and no pillow balls and that is within in two years. I'm still running my original pillow balls from my mtx3 prospec. Thats almost 4 years ago....


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Old 01-17-2009, 06:35 PM   #23
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thanks for the input guys,im gonna go w/ the mugen
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Old 01-18-2009, 07:56 PM   #24
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Go with the serpent
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Old 01-18-2009, 08:15 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by nitro ho View Post
I`d say go with muuugen if you like to replace spur gears on a minute by minute basis. I had that car for about 3 races, and then promptly sold it because of the little problems that car had. And man i never regretted it.
Don't let this steer you from a Mugen, if you don't set the gear mesh right with any car you will strip gears. Only issue I have had with stripping gears is when my mesh wasen't right. Learn to set the mesh and all will be fine.
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Old 01-18-2009, 09:31 PM   #26
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Don't let this steer you from a Mugen, if you don't set the gear mesh right with any car you will strip gears. Only issue I have had with stripping gears is when my mesh wasen't right. Learn to set the mesh and all will be fine.
Nitro Ho is right. Even experienced drivers like Mike Swauger, the Mugen Guru, have problem with the gears. Sooo...

Reality is that every kit has up and downs. Nothing is perfect. And nowadays with the Internet, you pretty much are covered with spares...... If your choices are those 2 brands, i will go with the snake...
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Old 01-19-2009, 02:20 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by nib View Post
i need to replace my ntc3 for next year and was thinking a serpent 720 or a mugen mtx4 but am open to suggestions. i race on parking lot tracks that are a bit more bumpy than permanant tracks and need something modern.id like to hear from folks that have run one or both of these cars
Just wait 1 month and see the VeloxV10...
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Old 01-19-2009, 03:33 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Ivan Dickson View Post
Both are good kits I don't have niethergo with the one that has the best support for parts.....
Don't know anything about the two, but I have to agree. Part accessibility is always going to be a big factor when choosing a new car.
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Old 01-19-2009, 10:13 PM   #29
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Default Mugen, Serpent, Evolva

I have been looking for a used car to start back into racing. What is the diff between a mrx4x and a 4r. There is a 4r I found for sale ($260) what would be a fair price for a roller. There is a Serpent 960-08 for sale on ebay I am sure that will end up being more than I want to spend but I am watching it just the same. Would appreciate any and all feedback and thoughts.

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Old 01-20-2009, 07:37 AM   #30
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I have been looking for a used car to start back into racing. What is the diff between a mrx4x and a 4r. There is a 4r I found for sale ($260) what would be a fair price for a roller. There is a Serpent 960-08 for sale on ebay I am sure that will end up being more than I want to spend but I am watching it just the same. Would appreciate any and all feedback and thoughts.

Details of MRX-4X kit>
+ Rear Upper Arm (2mm Shorter)

+ Brake Bracket & Rear Upper Arm Mount for short
rear upper arm.

+ Rear upright (Adjustable wheel offset)

+ Front bulkhead. You can change the tension of
the belt (5 different positions).

+ Rear bulkhead. You can change the tension of
the belt (5 different positions).

+ New Eccentric Hub.

+ 5mm New Rear Lower Arm Mount

+ New Battery Holder (FRP) & Chassis

+ New Long rear body Mount Arm & Rear Body
Mount Centering Parts

+ New Damper End Parts & Rear Damper Case
as same as front.

+ F/R Damper Stay, Al. Spacer for rear wheel offset,
Decal, Set-up sheet are included.

+ New Clutch System (3 pcs Centrigugal Shoe,
Aluminum Pressure Plate)

+ New Chassis
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