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Old 10-27-2003, 07:28 PM   #1
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Default shoe type clutch tweaking

have an inquiry on how to fix my clutch. my car is an ld3 and am in the process of breaking-in my engine (bench break-in as of the moment). when i fire up the engine (and in idle) the wheels move. when i engage the brakes, the motor dies. i asked around and they say the the clutch bell should be freewheeling. it is freewheeling when not installed with the car. can i adjust this or is there something wrong with how i installed the clutch bell? please help. thanks.
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Old 10-27-2003, 07:44 PM   #2
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Default Clutch

Chech if you install your clutch correctly. I have this happen to me once.
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Old 10-27-2003, 07:56 PM   #3
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i have been reading the manual. i think i should spread the springs outward more. do you think this is the problem?
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Old 10-27-2003, 08:02 PM   #4
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Try this,
If you grab the wheels with your hand, and not using the brakes, does it still die? If not, it may be that your idle may not be set correctly at the carb, and when you hit the brakes, it is closing the throttle too far.
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Old 10-27-2003, 08:46 PM   #5
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throttle is ok. the carb does not move when i hit the brakes.. this just happens when i put down the car or hit the brakes. thats why i suspected the shoe type clutch to be the problem. this is my first nitro kit (ld3) so i dont really know anything about clutch and stuff. keep the inputs comming, it helps a lot especially for a newbie like me! thanks!
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Old 10-28-2003, 05:29 AM   #6
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ok simple newbie problem. the clutch spring is set to soft and the idle screw too low. when you break the carb closses too much therefore not enough air/fuel mixture = shut off.

do this;

-tighten the clutch spring maybe 2.5 to 3 turns.
-close the idle screw. (remember the idle screw works backwards. closing it (clockwise means opening the carb and opening the screw (counter clockwise means closing the carb)
turn the screw in (clockwise) around 3/4 of a turn.

you may need to now reset your low end. set your low end needle so that after 10 seconds of idling you can still WOT it in the air and it doesn bog down...ie it sounds crisp. once you set the low end let it idle for around 1 minute id the idle slowly goes up the hotter it gets it is lean. richen it around 1/8th
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Old 10-28-2003, 07:26 PM   #7
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thats the follow up answer i would like to hear! most likely you are correct venom! ran the car earlier and whenever i put down the car, the engine dies out but if i pull the throttle a little harder (to rev a little higher than idle) it run but whenever i lock down the brakes, the car dies out again. so what i did was do circles with out braking, just blip throttle the trigger and do circles in our street. 1 tank down in that method. i need to check the clutch bell again later to do what venom recommends but the hex heads are beggining to round so i need to find a way to remove those screws that hold the engine. will update you guys tomorrow. pesky work.. i want to play!
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Old 10-29-2003, 12:13 AM   #8
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this happined to me so i took the car to the local hobby shoh and they fixed it dont now how dont care i just think its better that i get a profisonal to do it even though im a toolmaker
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Old 10-29-2003, 02:51 AM   #9
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thats what i plan to do tommorow!
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Old 10-30-2003, 04:30 AM   #10
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fixed the problem guys (with the help of my friendly hobby shop), the problem was in the clutch.. i did not put the small end of the spring accross the nut.. thats the reason why the clutch engages even at idle. well its all done now! ready to finish my break-in by tommorow! weee!
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Old 11-02-2003, 11:44 PM   #11
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sup - it was exactly what I thought happened when I read your problem! Hahahahaaa ... looks like we all make really funny mistakes.
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Old 11-03-2003, 01:43 AM   #12
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hehe! maybe its just a typical newbie mistake then! al,ost done with my break-in, was not satisfied at first at how the clutch engages, its too slow! but now that the engine is running a little leaner, its a little fine! hehe! ill be buying a centax type clutch when i have the money.
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Old 11-03-2003, 07:35 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by sup
hehe! maybe its just a typical newbie mistake then! al,ost done with my break-in, was not satisfied at first at how the clutch engages, its too slow! but now that the engine is running a little leaner, its a little fine! hehe! ill be buying a centax type clutch when i have the money.
Sup ... to be honest there is no point getting a Centax for the LD3, I know its really punchier but if you are running a 3 port its better that you just buy a 5 port and get better clutch shoes and clutch springs. That is if you are not really in competition. I used to run a NTC3 and I do know of many NTC3 drivers who do really well with the shoe type clutch. Actually, Barry Baker runs on a 2 shoe clutch!
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Old 11-03-2003, 05:33 PM   #14
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2 shoe clutch? well, my kit is an ld3.. any idea what other brands of clutch springs i can use (ie kyosho or serpent or others?)? and what other brand clutch shoes will fit the clutch bell of my kit? thanks tianci! ..oh, i have been leaning out the high end needle yesterday and the acceleration (clutch grip) is getting better.. i guess a little tuning will do..
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Old 11-04-2003, 12:10 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by sup
2 shoe clutch? well, my kit is an ld3.. any idea what other brands of clutch springs i can use (ie kyosho or serpent or others?)? and what other brand clutch shoes will fit the clutch bell of my kit? thanks tianci! ..oh, i have been leaning out the high end needle yesterday and the acceleration (clutch grip) is getting better.. i guess a little tuning will do..
sup ... I know your LD3 is a copy of the TC3 with upgrades so maybe you can take the original springs out and see if the TC3 ones will fit ... try the HARDENDED optional springs from TC3.

Also you need to modify the shock towers to make it hardier. What you can do is to find M3 sized screws, get the ones that are about 30 mm or so long.The screws are threaded at the bottom only and not above that. You need 4 screws and also 4 countersunk washers.

What you do is to attach the screws from the shock tower to the gear box ... so the screw is at the top not below the shock tower. That means you pass the screw through the access hole on the shock tower. But do place the washers to keep the screw pressured on the shock tower. DO NOT screw too tight, just firmly, in case the shock tower will be out of alignment. PM me if you do not get what I mean ... sorry!!!
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