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Old 10-27-2003, 09:45 AM   #1
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Default Sirio .15 w/ Slide Carb...

OK, I know in the US they only sell this engine with a rotary carb, but some sights I've seen have a SG crank, slide carb configuration. I wonder if anyone knows a shop oversees that has one and how much it would run.

Come to think of it, I also saw a NovaRossi T5S1 for $170. I'm planning on running the engine in the open class, so I want something that runs well and will hang with most of the big boys without going over $200. Would that be a better bet than that .15 Sirio? And if anyone has one, is it that much difference in the Sirio .12 and .15?
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Old 10-28-2003, 12:49 AM   #2
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get the RB V15, Rody said its got way more power then a Rody tuned V12
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Old 10-28-2003, 06:41 AM   #3
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Like this one:

1700-000700 $425.00 Rear exhaust, slide carb, standard crankshaft, normal glow plug

Sure, if I could find it under $200...
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Old 10-28-2003, 09:11 AM   #4
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Spence, what are you planning to run this thing in?
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Old 10-28-2003, 09:20 AM   #5
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Don 't ask...

Actually, I may drop it in ly LD3 and play around with that from time to time. I plan on either getting the LD3 Pro, an R40 or G4 for next season, I haven't really decided. For that kit, I will probably go legal. But for the RTR, it's all about fun. Then again, a modded Murnam Sirio runs around $230, which isn't bad...
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Old 10-29-2003, 12:45 PM   #6
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Heres my Sirio after a few runs.
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Old 10-29-2003, 01:39 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Suradaj
Heres my Sirio after a few runs.
Wow, looks pretty nasty.
The same problem as everybodys-conrod pin on cranck is too soft.
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Old 10-29-2003, 04:17 PM   #8
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Top gun: Alot of those sirrios conrod bushing were reamed egg shaped, this also contributes to the conrod stretch and break. Also the crank counter weight also needs alot of attention. Theres alot of room for massaging those black head engines. The newer Blue engines head engines had much better machining. Sorry I don't remember the diff model # from blue and black head. I have Smeltz Black head 3 port it has 2 gallon of 30 percent nitro with 8 % oil ran threw it and it shows little crankpin wear . The pin problem was a concern to me when I was talking with Matt at Smeltz Racing and he insured me that after crank work and a good (non egg shaped) connecting rod, I would not see any broken rod. So far I have to agree with him. He says the Blue sirrios are much better.
I really like the Smeltz Sirrio, it has more mid range torque than any other engine I have tried, and I've tried almost all of them.
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Old 10-29-2003, 04:29 PM   #9
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Doh!
bummer I heard this was a problem but with piston explosions. I hope serio gets it together they have a pretty good grip. I know Josh C was worried about this before the worlds big time. They make a nice piece with regards to power. Nova had some soft cranks a while ago. 4 qualifiers and toast.

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Old 10-29-2003, 04:37 PM   #10
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Hmm Dennis, never seen piston explosion with them before, always rod and crank breaks. Notice, I said midrange power with Matts stuff! You and Mugen MT's has the top end power!!!!! No doubt!
Hope all is well! BB
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Old 10-29-2003, 04:39 PM   #11
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just on the 21's

the 12's kick rods

I hope they get a grip.

All is good bro call sometime

I have to be polite as I'm about to become their competitor!

BB I read every day so if anyone needs me I will get to them sooner than later.
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Old 10-29-2003, 04:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Top gun: Alot of those sirrios conrod bushing were reamed egg shaped, this also contributes to the conrod stretch and break. Also the crank counter weight also needs alot of attention. Theres alot of room for massaging those black head engines. The newer Blue engines head engines had much better machining. Sorry I don't remember the diff model # from blue and black head. I have Smeltz Black head 3 port it has 2 gallon of 30 percent nitro with 8 % oil ran threw it and it shows little crankpin wear . The pin problem was a concern to me when I was talking with Matt at Smeltz Racing and he insured me that after crank work and a good (non egg shaped) connecting rod, I would not see any broken rod. So far I have to agree with him. He says the Blue sirrios are much better.
I really like the Smeltz Sirrio, it has more mid range torque than any other engine I have tried, and I've tried almost all of them.
I am talking from my expirience. I was working on two of them only and both of them ( I tested for hardness) were way off from my understanding of this issue. I have notify my friend about it. Also I have read a lot of posts where paople are climing the same thing. About the hole on the connecting pin, well I Can't control this thing, couse I don't produce parts for Sirios. I can garranty for the parts which I am prodicing, they stays in tollerance ( sorry no numbers). saw Sirio which had 4 gallons of fuel through, and nothing happened to it. Sirio might made some design mistake or they don't follow design technology and I am sure they will fix it. The rest of the engine from my point of view is very good desinged and done. Even the opin problem can be rsolve easy, just chrome plating and lapping will make their shaft work very long.
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Old 10-29-2003, 04:59 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Top gun: Alot of those sirrios conrod bushing were reamed egg shaped,
My conrods aren't reamed, they are done on lathe, so no eggs, no tapper.
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Old 10-29-2003, 05:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman


I have to be polite as I'm about to become their competitor!

I try to be polite too, I am already competitor- I am producing and have available.
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Old 10-29-2003, 05:22 PM   #15
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Was'nt speaking of your rods, nor was I necessarailly meaning Sirrio rods were reamed. Be it reamed or machined on a lathe for somereason they were off. Don't know how they produce mass pieces from the factory. So your saying the counter weight on the sittio crank is ok,? not wrong? I did dis assy. my engine before shipping for modding and noticed with out pision and rod on engine it would only spin 1 1/2 revs in block by hand. After getting it back, it turned 8 to 12 revs by hand. I had also checked brg alignment before modding. So balance is there somewhere right? I would think offset on crank wrong would also cause the rod failure I see here. ? I'm not hacking just trying to understand. I'm a diesel engine builder by trade and have been for over 25 years. I also have access to a few different sized Rockford Hardness testers. What #'s I'm I looking for if I was to check cranks for hardness. I'm sure all engine mani. let a few bad batches of cranks out, I'm sure theres a limit, to, what will go and what will blow.
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