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Old 08-12-2010, 01:40 PM
  #1171  
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Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze
The maximum recommended for the rear is 2mm short (2 orange spacer towards the back on each lower hinge pin) anything over (which is not recommended) will cause the spur to rub against the arm when the suspension compresses.

Question.
If it is not recommended, why is the setting possible then?.....
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Old 08-12-2010, 01:59 PM
  #1172  
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Originally Posted by Pattojnr
second that, best shocks period !
Good shock but still not as maintenance free as mugen.
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Old 08-12-2010, 02:06 PM
  #1173  
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Originally Posted by JACK HAMMER
Good shock but still not as maintenance free as mugen.
your joking right
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Old 08-12-2010, 06:34 PM
  #1174  
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No Jimmy not joking mugen shocks are the most durable and reliable . That's why they haven't changed. Only in lenth since a few cars back. Cap design and bladder are without a doubt proven. I ve yet to have them fail. That's why they're on my m3.
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Old 08-12-2010, 10:34 PM
  #1175  
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Originally Posted by JACK HAMMER
No Jimmy not joking mugen shocks are the most durable and reliable . That's why they haven't changed. Only in lenth since a few cars back. Cap design and bladder are without a doubt proven. I ve yet to have them fail. That's why they're on my m3.
I agree 100%.

You build a Mugen shock and forget it, it'll work an entire season...
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Old 08-12-2010, 10:36 PM
  #1176  
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN
can someone confirm this?
Why would you shorten the reear wheelbase anyways? Looking for rear end grip?
There's easier ways to find rear grip.

If you're looking for steering, then you should shorten the front wheelbase.
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Old 08-13-2010, 04:59 AM
  #1177  
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Originally Posted by JACK HAMMER
No Jimmy not joking mugen shocks are the most durable and reliable . That's why they haven't changed. Only in lenth since a few cars back. Cap design and bladder are without a doubt proven. I ve yet to have them fail. That's why they're on my m3.
well phil if your comparing it with the kyosho shock i will agree with you as far as that . serpent has no bladder one less thing to maintain is that not the point
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Old 08-13-2010, 07:00 AM
  #1178  
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Originally Posted by stefan
Why would you shorten the reear wheelbase anyways? Looking for rear end grip?
There's easier ways to find rear grip.

If you're looking for steering, then you should shorten the front wheelbase.
shorten the rear wheelbase to have smaller turning radius? and thus faster?
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Old 08-13-2010, 08:31 AM
  #1179  
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Originally Posted by NitroWD
shorten the rear wheelbase to have smaller turning radius? and thus faster?
Wheelbase is more about weight distribution. When you shorten the wheelbase you put more weight on the wheels, thus increasing grip.
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Old 08-13-2010, 10:26 AM
  #1180  
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Originally Posted by NitroWD
shorten the rear wheelbase to have smaller turning radius? and thus faster?
Shortening the "rear" wheelbase will increase rear rotation.
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Old 08-13-2010, 11:17 AM
  #1181  
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Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze
Shortening the "rear" wheelbase will increase rear rotation.
Sorry, but not true.
By moving the pivot point of the rear suspension forward, you are moving more weight behind the wheel, which will create more rear traction, thus less steering.

When looking for more steering you need to shorten the front wheel base which will put more weight in front of the front wheels and creates more front grip.
Another side effect of shortening the front wheelbase is a big increase on Ackerman, which gives more aggresive turn in.

These are physical facts, so no need to correct me.
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Old 08-13-2010, 12:09 PM
  #1182  
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Both a bit true... Shortening a wheelbase will always give a better stering, just draw the lines in the line of the axles and the crossing point will be closer to the car with a shorter wheelbase no matter if it is shortened on the front or on the rear.
Running a solid rear axle and placing more weight onto it does indeed give less steering.
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Old 08-13-2010, 12:49 PM
  #1183  
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Originally Posted by stefan
Sorry, but not true.
By moving the pivot point of the rear suspension forward, you are moving more weight behind the wheel, which will create more rear traction, thus less steering.

When looking for more steering you need to shorten the front wheel base which will put more weight in front of the front wheels and creates more front grip.
Another side effect of shortening the front wheelbase is a big increase on Ackerman, which gives more aggresive turn in.

These are physical facts, so no need to correct me.
TK is correct, have read a lot about the effects of shortening the wheelbase and it does increase the rotation of the rear, I have personally tried it and the steering input becomes really sensitive, but it turns on dime, way more steering with the shorter rear wheel base, so you are wrong.
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Old 08-13-2010, 08:53 PM
  #1184  
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Originally Posted by captian
well phil if your comparing it with the kyosho shock i will agree with you as far as that . serpent has no bladder one less thing to maintain is that not the point
I'm compairing it to all shocks.
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Old 08-13-2010, 10:18 PM
  #1185  
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Originally Posted by Android
TK is correct, have read a lot about the effects of shortening the wheelbase and it does increase the rotation of the rear, I have personally tried it and the steering input becomes really sensitive, but it turns on dime, way more steering with the shorter rear wheel base, so you are wrong.
No I'm not!
I tried it as well, and the short rear wheelbase gave me all kinds of problems with free suspension travel, but no steering.
The short front wheelbase did, so you are wrong
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