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Old 12-05-2008, 11:10 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by BIG DADDY8 View Post
I've had a NTC3 for about 4 years and won many races againt good racers here in Texas(never raced outside of TX YET). It's been up againt MTX 3, MTX 4, KYOSHO, XRAY, and the list goes on. I've had the picco xp.12, novarossi mt12 5 port(moded), and an Orion wasp in it and NEVER melted a diff. If you know how to drive the parts aren't that brittle( ive had some bad wrecks) and as for the chassis you must have hit a brick wall. I only broke a few times. If you know how to set your diffs right it's still a good racing car. Ive ran Teamassociated for about 8years now and i here everyone say that there not top level cars. Thats crap. It's 80% driver and 20% car. That's all ive got to say about that.
I find it funny that someone who races and beats all these "good racers" and beats the mtx line, kyosho, xray, who has tried all these different motors, would come here to ask what motor to use in his NTC3.....That's all ive got to say about that.
If you drive so smooth, and the car doesn't need any mods, why were you looking for Mugen pivot balls?
And why carry so many extra parts? Like in this thread? http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ons-parts.html
Because the car is fragile.
Check this thread out where you say "normal parts that break" http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...are-parts.html

Last edited by Baedarlboo; 12-06-2008 at 12:02 AM.
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Old 12-05-2008, 11:39 PM   #17
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did everyone just fail to see he's going to strap the motor to a ntc3?
Hate to say it, but all the motor mentioned here, will eat up your diff gears.
Good luck with that.
he is right, when i had my ntc3 i got a ninja.12 and i get one tank out of it the either its the diff,driveshaft or spur gears would strip .... i even invested in upgrades also bought the team kit & still did the same so i got tired got me a mtx4r
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Old 12-06-2008, 05:47 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Baedarlboo View Post
I find it funny that someone who races and beats all these "good racers" and beats the mtx line, kyosho, xray, who has tried all these different motors, would come here to ask what motor to use in his NTC3.....That's all ive got to say about that.
If you drive so smooth, and the car doesn't need any mods, why were you looking for Mugen pivot balls?
And why carry so many extra parts? Like in this thread? http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ons-parts.html
Because the car is fragile.
Check this thread out where you say "normal parts that break" http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...are-parts.html
So i guess you don't have spare parts and never break your car. I see belts come off and parts break on any car. I like the K-factory parts. I never said you didn't have to hop the car up. The reason i asked about the motors on here is to get peoples input on motors and not to get bashes on the car. Yes the car has some weak points but what cars dont? It's a good thing to have spare parts for any car. I like the shaft style cars for the sime reason is there easier to work on and the NTC3 is very easy to set up. I got my first belt car last christmas which was the TC5. I like it. If i did go to a belt drive nitro it would be the MTX 4. Like i stated im a Team Associated nut. Parts are easy to find and are cheaper than the newer cars out and easier to find everywhere.
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Old 12-06-2008, 09:25 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by BIG DADDY8 View Post
So i guess you don't have spare parts and never break your car. I see belts come off and parts break on any car. I like the K-factory parts. I never said you didn't have to hop the car up. The reason i asked about the motors on here is to get peoples input on motors and not to get bashes on the car. Yes the car has some weak points but what cars dont? It's a good thing to have spare parts for any car. I like the shaft style cars for the sime reason is there easier to work on and the NTC3 is very easy to set up. I got my first belt car last christmas which was the TC5. I like it. If i did go to a belt drive nitro it would be the MTX 4. Like i stated im a Team Associated nut. Parts are easy to find and are cheaper than the newer cars out and easier to find everywhere.
My first post was not to bash, but to warn you of the effects of having a stout motor dropped in. This is from experience from atleast 4 local NTC3 nuts including myself, until we started to experience all of the many weakness of the car. And it just started to add up in cost too much to justify keeping the car. You took the warnings personal and got defensive...i was not bashing, if you felt like i was bashing you, I apologize. I've moved on to the mugen camp and never looked back. I have yet, to break an arm, bend a chassis, bend a pivot ball, melt diffs...ect
I have changed my side belt once, and i don't baby my car, i take care of it, but i run it hard. The clutch adjustment is something you will never have either.....I could go on, but you'll think i'm still bashing, I'm just trying to point you in the right direction. And this is only because I can say, been there, and done that.
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Old 12-06-2008, 12:34 PM   #20
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Simple solution to the diff melting problem is to get the steel diff and pinion gear from an ofna LD-3 and put it in your TC-3 no more melted diffs. You will have to modify the shaft's tip making it square instead of round.
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