MTX 5
#2296
Not the xray gears, the 2 speed shoe.. My guess is the stripping might be due to this. Cause first gear never strips
#2297
Hi All
When we had the gear stripping problem on the MTX4R we made sure of the mesh, 2 speed shoe being set tightly etc.... everything that has been mentioned but what fixed it for us was......
"Take the balls/roller out of the two speed, remove the 3mm grub screw and then drill the 2 speed shoes out to take a 4mm grub screw. Screw the 4mm grub screw directly down onto the cam". Then set the 2 speed closely to the holder to have a very smooth change, by doing this it made the gear change very consistant and smooth.
Our stripping problem went away, I appreciate the 5 has flex but give this a go it may work.
Good Luck (Convert now to Xray!!!)
When we had the gear stripping problem on the MTX4R we made sure of the mesh, 2 speed shoe being set tightly etc.... everything that has been mentioned but what fixed it for us was......
"Take the balls/roller out of the two speed, remove the 3mm grub screw and then drill the 2 speed shoes out to take a 4mm grub screw. Screw the 4mm grub screw directly down onto the cam". Then set the 2 speed closely to the holder to have a very smooth change, by doing this it made the gear change very consistant and smooth.
Our stripping problem went away, I appreciate the 5 has flex but give this a go it may work.
Good Luck (Convert now to Xray!!!)
#2298
I would love to keep my car all mugen but if I feel the 2 speed shoe is faulty then I will change it for one that i know works. Again it has to be the shoe cause only the 2nd gear strips not the first. If it was an alignment problem then both would strip.. And if your chasing a good mesh go one tooth up on the first and second.
#2299
Tech Champion
iTrader: (10)
I would love to keep my car all mugen but if I feel the 2 speed shoe is faulty then I will change it for one that i know works. Again it has to be the shoe cause only the 2nd gear strips not the first. If it was an alignment problem then both would strip.. And if your chasing a good mesh go one tooth up on the first and second.
-no tight side belt
-shim the 1st and second gears with a .1 to .2mm washers
-get rid of roller on 2 speed, use long grub screws only
-setup 2 speed shoes so there is .05mm gap between 2 speed cam and the shoes (ie this will give a bigger gap between the show and the housing...give it a go).
-make sure both shoes have the same 2 speed release setting (screw you adjust to alter for or after 2 speed shift point)
-heat the gears up so that when you screw the housings on you do not warp the gears
-check gears roll on shaft true (ie do not wobble when rolling). if not, re do above step or pre tap gears and use loctite 222 threadlock on the screws and the plastic. Never overtighten screws on the housings as this will cause warping.
-mesh engine with larger spur gear off. this is the gear that needs to be well meshed. mesh it so it rolls free without weird noises and with as little gap as possible
-use locktight on engine screws every time you take screws out and put back in (use loctite 222)
-consider using loctite 222 to seat the bearings into the plastic bushings, and loctite the plastic bushings onto the baulkheads to avoid movement or minute vibrations that could cause wear to parts that require exact fit and finish.
-use good quality bearings on the 2 speed shaft and keep them oiled. check for wear (ie side to side, in or out play)
if still having issues, check parts like bearings and shafts for consistent size.
you don't need an engine brace, or anything like that.
#2300
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Landsborough, Queensland, Australia.
Posts: 2,142
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
this is one of the drawbacks of forums, it's hard to find info, so people inevitably have the same issues, ask the same questions and get the same answers. Maybe a webpage with a 1 page solutions guide would be easier lol...considering the heartache this issue is causing some people. Maybe this issue is caused by a quality control issue on mugen's end?
-no tight side belt
-shim the 1st and second gears with a .1 to .2mm washers
-get rid of roller on 2 speed, use long grub screws only
-setup 2 speed shoes so there is .05mm gap between 2 speed cam and the shoes (ie this will give a bigger gap between the show and the housing...give it a go).
-make sure both shoes have the same 2 speed release setting (screw you adjust to alter for or after 2 speed shift point)
-heat the gears up so that when you screw the housings on you do not warp the gears
-check gears roll on shaft true (ie do not wobble when rolling). if not, re do above step or pre tap gears and use loctite 222 threadlock on the screws and the plastic. Never overtighten screws on the housings as this will cause warping.
-mesh engine with larger spur gear off. this is the gear that needs to be well meshed. mesh it so it rolls free without weird noises and with as little gap as possible
-use locktight on engine screws every time you take screws out and put back in (use loctite 222)
-consider using loctite 222 to seat the bearings into the plastic bushings, and loctite the plastic bushings onto the baulkheads to avoid movement or minute vibrations that could cause wear to parts that require exact fit and finish.
-use good quality bearings on the 2 speed shaft and keep them oiled. check for wear (ie side to side, in or out play)
if still having issues, check parts like bearings and shafts for consistent size.
you don't need an engine brace, or anything like that.
-no tight side belt
-shim the 1st and second gears with a .1 to .2mm washers
-get rid of roller on 2 speed, use long grub screws only
-setup 2 speed shoes so there is .05mm gap between 2 speed cam and the shoes (ie this will give a bigger gap between the show and the housing...give it a go).
-make sure both shoes have the same 2 speed release setting (screw you adjust to alter for or after 2 speed shift point)
-heat the gears up so that when you screw the housings on you do not warp the gears
-check gears roll on shaft true (ie do not wobble when rolling). if not, re do above step or pre tap gears and use loctite 222 threadlock on the screws and the plastic. Never overtighten screws on the housings as this will cause warping.
-mesh engine with larger spur gear off. this is the gear that needs to be well meshed. mesh it so it rolls free without weird noises and with as little gap as possible
-use locktight on engine screws every time you take screws out and put back in (use loctite 222)
-consider using loctite 222 to seat the bearings into the plastic bushings, and loctite the plastic bushings onto the baulkheads to avoid movement or minute vibrations that could cause wear to parts that require exact fit and finish.
-use good quality bearings on the 2 speed shaft and keep them oiled. check for wear (ie side to side, in or out play)
if still having issues, check parts like bearings and shafts for consistent size.
you don't need an engine brace, or anything like that.
Kindest regards,
Lars
#2301
Tech Rookie
Saw this in another forum:
Concerning MTX-5 gear stripping problem, MUGEN have investigated and tested at different tracks to solve this problem in Japan.
Finally we have found out that the cause of 2nd gear stripping problem was in the rear urethane belt and not in the 2nd spur gears itself or whatever.
In order to solve this problem, you just need to replace the rear belt from urethane (T0266) to rubber belt (T0269).
http://www.rckws.com/discuz/forum.ph...extra=page%3D1
Concerning MTX-5 gear stripping problem, MUGEN have investigated and tested at different tracks to solve this problem in Japan.
Finally we have found out that the cause of 2nd gear stripping problem was in the rear urethane belt and not in the 2nd spur gears itself or whatever.
In order to solve this problem, you just need to replace the rear belt from urethane (T0266) to rubber belt (T0269).
http://www.rckws.com/discuz/forum.ph...extra=page%3D1
#2302
To be honest with you guys, I like to try things that's not suppose to work, including using parts from other vehicles. I have read almost every page of this forum, and have developed my own theories for gear stripping. Me, by using an X-ray 2 speed shoe, I'm just eliminating another variable.
#2303
Tech Fanatic
tom how often do you want to change chassi we bent one in sydney in 3 tanks with all end points set right after we put braces back on it was alright till bailey hit another at car full noise at titles qld and bent it across/on angle be hind engen after that we striped 2 gears because i had not noticed damage this was first time this year about400 laps with no problem using BRACE
greg
when we got 5 this forum was on about page85
greg
when we got 5 this forum was on about page85
Last edited by greg.dawn; 08-05-2012 at 01:58 AM.
#2304
Saw this in another forum:
Concerning MTX-5 gear stripping problem, MUGEN have investigated and tested at different tracks to solve this problem in Japan.
Finally we have found out that the cause of 2nd gear stripping problem was in the rear urethane belt and not in the 2nd spur gears itself or whatever.
In order to solve this problem, you just need to replace the rear belt from urethane (T0266) to rubber belt (T0269).
http://www.rckws.com/discuz/forum.ph...extra=page%3D1
Concerning MTX-5 gear stripping problem, MUGEN have investigated and tested at different tracks to solve this problem in Japan.
Finally we have found out that the cause of 2nd gear stripping problem was in the rear urethane belt and not in the 2nd spur gears itself or whatever.
In order to solve this problem, you just need to replace the rear belt from urethane (T0266) to rubber belt (T0269).
http://www.rckws.com/discuz/forum.ph...extra=page%3D1
#2305
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Sorry to say this guys, but I am disappointed to read about the gear problem of the car.
Really did not want to get a serpent, as back in the day I did not like how weak the S710. This led me to purchase Mugen MTX3 prospec. I loved the car and everything mugen from then on.
now I came back to see what new and I found this out.. =( should I get an MTX4 ?
Really did not want to get a serpent, as back in the day I did not like how weak the S710. This led me to purchase Mugen MTX3 prospec. I loved the car and everything mugen from then on.
now I came back to see what new and I found this out.. =( should I get an MTX4 ?
#2306
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
no stripping
I just ran two mains 30 mins....over 120 laps in each....no stripped gears...I think the is something in running a brace...mine is to the two speed shaft holder...I have crazy brakes now an haven't stripped a gear in over 200 laps....that's just my experience wit the car..
#2307
Tech Fanatic
the 4r is as tough as a brick as long as you set gear mesh at least when you strip a gear you can find what is wrong ///clutch bearing/or engen moved
when 5 is good it is really quick
greg
when 5 is good it is really quick
greg
Last edited by greg.dawn; 08-05-2012 at 09:56 PM.
#2309
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Sorry to say this guys, but I am disappointed to read about the gear problem of the car.
Really did not want to get a serpent, as back in the day I did not like how weak the S710. This led me to purchase Mugen MTX3 prospec. I loved the car and everything mugen from then on.
now I came back to see what new and I found this out.. =( should I get an MTX4 ?
Really did not want to get a serpent, as back in the day I did not like how weak the S710. This led me to purchase Mugen MTX3 prospec. I loved the car and everything mugen from then on.
now I came back to see what new and I found this out.. =( should I get an MTX4 ?
There are plenty of other great options the Serpent 747, Xray NT1, Shepherd Velox V10, Capricorn LAB C02
None of these bend or strip gears, and all are capable of winning races.
The MTX-5 is fast this is proven but I couldn't buy one knowing the issues, personally I'd go for one of the new chassis with the weight reductions already in place like the 747 or the LAB C02.
You will make the 1550g limit easier, as I have a funny feeling this is the way it's all going.