MTX 5

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  • MUGEN Release New Product for MTX-5

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  • Quote: MUGEN Release New Product for MTX-5
    You Have Pm URGENT
  • Quote: You Have Pm URGENT
    And you have a problem with your keyboard....
  • that pin replacement tool looks exotic
    but with that price id rather use super joint grease
    on the pins and at the most, replace the drive shafts after
    several seasons of racing,

    btw rcmarket page still not fast enought but at least
    not slow as before! guess the critics worked!!
  • Quote: that pin replacement tool looks exotic
    but with that price id rather use super joint grease
    on the pins and at the most, replace the drive shafts after
    several seasons of racing
    Good suggestion.
    👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
  • Quote: that pin replacement tool looks exotic
    but with that price id rather use super joint grease
    on the pins and at the most, replace the drive shafts after
    several seasons of racing,
    What does the pin removal tool do? You'll never have trouble with common design driveshafts like the MTX4, if they are inspected and greased after each day's racing. I would guess that MTX5 driveshafts are the same, or are they a new design?

    Quote:
    btw rcmarket page still not fast enought but at least
    not slow as before! guess the critics worked!!
    Well done!

    Kindest regards,
    Lars.
  • This tool removes the pins from cvd's and dogbones. After time the pins will develop flat spots on them from when they engage the outdrives from the diff and the wheel axle. Grease helps; but does not stop it completely.
    I change mine about every 5 to 6 race days. I've found it can be easily done with a small vice and hammer.


    Pass you soon...
  • Quote: This tool removes the pins from cvd's and dogbones. After time the pins will develop flat spots on them from when they engage the outdrives from the diff and the wheel axial. Grease helps; but does not stop it completely.
    I change mine about every 5 to 6 race days. I've found it can be easily done with a small vice and hammer.


    Pass you soon...
    Exactly; they should be changed when they are worn, and the tool is basically redundant just as I thought.

    Kindest regards,
    Lars.
  • Quote: Exactly; they should be changed when they are worn, and the tool is basically redundant just as I thought.

    Kindest regards,
    Lars.
    I have to disagree. If the dogbones are not bent or twisted. I have no problem replacing the pins. For the price of one pair of rear dogbones for the Cap C801 you can repair 20 to 25 used dogbones with new pins. But to each his own. But I do agree; there is an easy way to replace the pins without buying the tool.


    Pass you soon...
  • Once you have a tool for replacing the driveshaft pins you wish you bought one sooner.
    Since the pins cost next to nothing I replace them very regularly which keeps the outdrives and wheel axles as new. Once you've driven too long with a set of worn out pins you will need to replace the outdrives and wheel axles as well since they will wear out. With worn out outdrives and wheel axles the dog bone or driveshaft will 'catch' and causes the suspension to bind up, which causes erratic handling of the car.
  • Quote: Once you have a tool for replacing the driveshaft pins you wish you bought one sooner.
    Since the pins cost next to nothing I replace them very regularly which keeps the outdrives and wheel axles as new. Once you've driven too long with a set of worn out pins you will need to replace the outdrives and wheel axles as well since they will wear out. With worn out outdrives and wheel axles the dog bone or driveshaft will 'catch' and causes the suspension to bind up, which causes erratic handling of the car.
    +1
  • Quote: I have to disagree. If the dogbones are not bent or twisted. I have no problem replacing the pins. For the price of one pair of rear dogbones for the Cap C801 you can repair 20 to 25 used dogbones with new pins. But to each his own. But I do agree; there is an easy way to replace the pins without buying the tool.


    Pass you soon...
    Sorry I didn't make myself clear; I meant pins should be replaced when they show signs of wear, that's what I meant by inspecting them after each race day. We often replace pins, but it's also important to replace anything else that shows signs of wear or damage. Cleaning them and fresh grease prolongs the life of them significantly. Broken driveshafts are a common cause of failure, so it's important to maintain them as we obviously both agree to.

    Kindest regards,
    Lars.
  • Quote: Sorry I didn't make myself clear; I meant pins should be replaced when they show signs of wear, that's what I meant by inspecting them after each race day. We often replace pins, but it's also important to replace anything else that shows signs of wear or damage. Cleaning them and fresh grease prolongs the life of them significantly. Broken driveshafts are a common cause of failure, so it's important to maintain them as we obviously both agree to.

    Kindest regards,
    Lars.
    I see... said the blind man


    Pass you soon...
  • Quote: I have to disagree. If the dogbones are not bent or twisted. I have no problem replacing the pins. For the price of one pair of rear dogbones for the Cap C801 you can repair 20 to 25 used dogbones with new pins. But to each his own. But I do agree; there is an easy way to replace the pins without buying the tool.


    Pass you soon...
    Will you care to share how to replace wo the tool, hudy also makes one. I believe
  • Attachment 845667845674QUOTE=Seisick;10017889]Will you care to share how to replace wo the tool, hudy also makes one. I believe[/QUOTE]

    Sure.. This is the quick and dirty

    It not rocket science. I first start with a dogbone laying on top of my partially open vice. The vice should be open so that the dogbone body will rest on the top the jaws of the vice and the pins are protruding thru the vice but Not clamping the pins.
    I then use a small brass hammer and drive the pin just before it is flush with the dogbone body. I have a front dogbone that was never installed on my car. I use this dogbone as punch since these pins are the same diameter of the pin I'm removing. I then use the front dogbone as a punch to drive the pin slightly past flush. I just want to drive the pin far enough so the new pin can be capture faily easy by the partially vacant hole. I then drive the new pin in as the old pin is drive thru the bottom of the dogbone. Only thing that is left is to insure the pin is centered in the dog bone.
    I took some pics of different stages of the process. I have not ordered new pins yet; so I have no pics of the new pin being driven in.
    .

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