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Old 03-18-2014, 09:19 PM   #3061
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Originally Posted by greg.dawn View Post
if you want the car to jump forward when it changes it will strip gears every time nice and smooth change /we still run the same 2 speed that came in the kit I have onley adjusted It once and that's because I donot drive it as fast as grandson he has retired to drive his girl chaser
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Where's the like button he'll be back
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Old 03-18-2014, 10:43 PM   #3062
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he has just noticed how long the legs are and hair/colour and all the rest pity his wallet is not big enough to own //Nissan siliva//// and girls///and SCHOOL
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Old 03-19-2014, 04:07 AM   #3063
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Anyone knows what the minimum roar weight is for touring car?
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Old 03-19-2014, 05:42 AM   #3064
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I see a difference between smooth and early engagement . Less spring tension will give you an earlier engagement. The distance between the drum and the shoe makes it smooth. Also spring condition is important. From what I experienced , after the 2 speed shoe wears down and the gap becomes too big the 2 speed shoe will lock up in the drum, and once you get back on throttle out of a corner the torque of the engine will break the spur if it's still engaged at low speeds. I've been driving this car for a few seasons and this is what I see.
Hello Nitto,
I will retry the Set Up that you evoke for the shoes. Besides, it's very interesting to exchange with you because somebody mentions finally the problem of the 2nd spur stripping because the shoes remain stuck in the drum when the first speed (because low velocity) engages.
You are fully right, the problem arrives after some running time, when the shoes and the drum wear down. By changing the shoes and the drum, the problem is resolve, for sure.
By the past, several guys of my club and myself met this similar problem with our NT1. The best solution we found (excepted the one to change drum and shoes) was to change the central screws (they deteriorated in their extremities in contact with the cylinders) and to not put too much pressure on these ones, so to have the adaptor enough free in the shoes. It's why, Nitoo, I don't like to have the shoes very close of the drum (to not put pressure on the screws and to not damage them).
One thing is sure : I think like you, this 2nd spur breaks because the shoes remains still stuck in the drum when the first speed engages. Is it the too important gap because the wear ? Is it the aluminium on the drum that is embedded in the shoes and with the heat.....it sticks, I don't know exactly the right explanation.
If other guys have ideas on this issue, you are welcome.
Cheers.
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Old 03-19-2014, 06:21 AM   #3065
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At one point I remember I had to use a slightly longer grub screw and file off the excess to make it perfect, also I noticed that the shoe wears much faster than the xray shoe. If I remember correctly the mugen shoe came on a parts tree like it's made of plastic where the xray is some type of carbon mix. So maybe the mugen shoe can not deal with the heat and that could be part of the problem.?. Harder shoe springs would also be a consideration.
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Old 03-19-2014, 06:28 AM   #3066
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I forgot , if the gap is too big after the shoe wears down, the adapter inside the shoe will turn slightly and lock the 2 speed shoe in the open position. I had a guy at my pit table in awe when we saw that.

What's the difference between the black pistons and the white for the shock pistons?
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Old 03-19-2014, 06:47 AM   #3067
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NITTO550 View Post
I forgot , if the gap is too big after the shoe wears down, the adapter inside the shoe will turn slightly and lock the 2 speed shoe in the open position. I had a guy at my pit table in awe when we saw that.

What's the difference between the black pistons and the white for the shock pistons?
I got to say it..... The colour

Na is the hole size or number of holes.. I have some in the shed I can measure them later but I'm in bed right now so you will have to wait
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:42 AM   #3068
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Ok Mr. Hanwright, thank u very much.
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Old 03-19-2014, 09:15 AM   #3069
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Hello to all
It is now three years that use the MTX5, and I do not break the second gear for some time now .
I always keep the machine from the box, and as I have always maintained that the defect is caused by the friction heat where it is the major cause.
in fact found the right towards the clutch and 'disappeared the problem, both on tracks with a lot of traction both on slippery tracks.
my frame (original) has very nearly 2 years and has no kinks.
there are no secrets but some details:
long steel screws under 2 shaft supports change
no game tree change
Coupling without backlash between the crown and the thickness of the first and the second crown (0.5).
clutch: spring hard, nut Clutch spring -0.3 / -0.4, ceramic bearings, ring strain on the free model and optional (not the box T2001).
tie between the roll bar and front support bolt diff. (prevents bending of the chassis under braking).
car lighter (aluminum screws and titanium) total weight kg 1670 body.
see you soon
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Old 03-19-2014, 09:49 AM   #3070
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How could it be friction and heat when I've seen gears strip in the first 5 minutes of running?
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Old 03-19-2014, 10:06 AM   #3071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NITTO550 View Post
I forgot , if the gap is too big after the shoe wears down, the adapter inside the shoe will turn slightly and lock the 2 speed shoe in the open position. I had a guy at my pit table in awe when we saw that.

What's the difference between the black pistons and the white for the shock pistons?
There are the 2 holes, 1.1mm usually for the rear shocks
And this for the front shocks
White from kit 1 hole 1.1mm
White Optional 1 hole 1.3mm
Black Optional 1 hole 1.2mm
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Old 03-19-2014, 10:43 AM   #3072
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Oh ok, got it ! Thanks!
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Old 03-19-2014, 01:37 PM   #3073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NITTO550 View Post
I forgot , if the gap is too big after the shoe wears down, the adapter inside the shoe will turn slightly and lock the 2 speed shoe in the open position. I had a guy at my pit table in awe when we saw that.

What's the difference between the black pistons and the white for the shock pistons?
Hello Rich,
This problem happened to me in a race. The reason was that both screws were loosened, because the threading was damaged. As there is few material on the shoes to maintain these screws in this place, it can explain why we can "lost" these screws.
Besides, I have also the same question to our Italian friend about the time. Because I have broken spurs after 2 - 3 laps and worst I saw spurs broken on the starting box, just after some accelerations. But here, it can be the non-alignment too.
Thanks guys to share : this time, we have some explanations and solutions to avoid the spurs stripping, even if we have to do things very well.
See you
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Old 03-19-2014, 11:05 PM   #3074
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i am glad that there is still some mtx5 left racing in the world and I would gess they have been on this site///////not any body from the factory if they had to pay for the parts we all would have had it fixed by now// so have fun racing I now we are because its a MUGEN
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Old 03-20-2014, 03:22 AM   #3075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NITTO550 View Post
How could it be friction and heat when I've seen gears strip in the first 5 minutes of running?
just for 1 minute .... 1 straight, 3 curves and done.
my car has ever broken the crown to the heat never for other reasons, as demonstrated by the fact that it does more ...... and yet the car is still the same.
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