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Old 09-29-2003, 04:14 PM   #1
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Default OS that won't start?

OK, I realize the only thing an engine needs is fuel and fire. Here's the problem. My CV-R with the 10C slide carb did not want to fire the other day. Using an OS#8 plug, Byron 20% nitro, and needle settings similar to when I ran the week before with similar weather (80% high, low humidity), it would start and spit fuel. After a few hard laps, bringing it in the engine didn't temp over 220, if that (often at 200-210). But if I cut it off, it didn't want to start. The car was cold, the plug was good, the charger was good, the starter box was fine, the engine wasn't flooded. But crank and crank, it didn't want to fire. When it started to, it made the sound like the engine was about to catch for 1/2 a second, then quit. Wait 5 seconds, it made the same sound and quit. When it finally caught, it sounded really slow and spat fuel for a while. Once it got started, it ran OK, no overheating. It was real hit or mis. Swapping plugs sometimes worked, even though they glowed bright with the ignitor. Any clues guys?
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Old 09-29-2003, 04:26 PM   #2
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way to rich, run os. at around 245-265.
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Old 09-29-2003, 04:29 PM   #3
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I have an os tr(p) same deal. Too rich on the low end needle.

G
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Old 09-29-2003, 04:35 PM   #4
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So, leaning the car out should allow the car to start? It would be good to get an idea of what I should look for before I tear the carb down. That shouldn't be necessary, considering it doesn't have a full gallon thru it?
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Old 09-29-2003, 04:48 PM   #5
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O.S. should start rather easily. When the engine doesn't start when everything else is fine the try leaning out the low end a little (start from the starting point that the manual says) and then lean it out just a little like 1/4 to 1/2 and that should be cool. It's the high end that you can lean out more. In anycase, when your car is too rich, taking off the airfilter while starting it will help. Gives it more air and also unflood the carb and engine.

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Old 09-29-2003, 06:10 PM   #6
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Default Re: OS that won't start?

Quote:
Originally posted by spenzalii
OK, I realize the only thing an engine needs is fuel and fire. Here's the problem. My CV-R with the 10C slide carb did not want to fire the other day. Using an OS#8 plug, Byron 20% nitro, and needle settings similar to when I ran the week before with similar weather (80% high, low humidity), it would start and spit fuel. After a few hard laps, bringing it in the engine didn't temp over 220, if that (often at 200-210). But if I cut it off, it didn't want to start. The car was cold, the plug was good, the charger was good, the starter box was fine, the engine wasn't flooded. But crank and crank, it didn't want to fire. When it started to, it made the sound like the engine was about to catch for 1/2 a second, then quit. Wait 5 seconds, it made the same sound and quit. When it finally caught, it sounded really slow and spat fuel for a while. Once it got started, it ran OK, no overheating. It was real hit or mis. Swapping plugs sometimes worked, even though they glowed bright with the ignitor. Any clues guys?
you could also try a hotter plug, like a 6 or 5 for better low end/idle performance.
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Old 09-29-2003, 09:56 PM   #7
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If I could piggy-back on this thread...

I have a cv-r and the main bearing is tired. It has sideways play and is leaking not a little.

I have two questions:

1. Is it worth doing a bearing replacement on the motor?

2. If so, how hard is it to do the replacement?

thanks.
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Old 09-29-2003, 10:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by Racin Rev
If I could piggy-back on this thread...

I have a cv-r and the main bearing is tired. It has sideways play and is leaking not a little.

I have two questions:

1. Is it worth doing a bearing replacement on the motor?

2. If so, how hard is it to do the replacement?

thanks.
If the motor has done a lot of work, just retire it. If you change the bearing you still have an old and worn motor. You need to decide the condition of your motor for yourself.

I had a seized motor bearing in a quite new motor which a replaced. I would highly recommend getting the correct tool for this (OFNA makes one), but you can get by with heating the block and bashing it in and out. I can guarantee you will not get it dead straight when getting it abck in without the tool tho.
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Old 09-30-2003, 06:32 AM   #9
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OK. I'll try leaning out the low end a bit. I haven't touched that needle since break in. It was the damndest thing with that engine. MOst of the time, even when it did start that say, one tap of the box and it fired up and ran, but ran cool. When it didn't start, the car was cool and I made sure it wasn't flooded. But it did start like it was very rich.

Any clue what would cause the plug to blow? One blew out the other day, and it definately wasn't running lean...
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Old 09-30-2003, 09:27 AM   #10
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Your glow plug went because the setting was too rich and you were trying to pump the engine to much when it's not starting.

Gary
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Old 09-30-2003, 12:48 PM   #11
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Great. Now I know what to look for. Lean out the low end a bit and the high end a bit. I'll let you guys know if it works
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Old 10-04-2003, 05:06 PM   #12
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i would say recheck your settings..it sounds rich..i have a cvr and it cranks very easily every time
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