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Old 02-26-2009, 07:44 AM   #271
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now back to 'business'...

what's the difference or how will the car be affected if you use a hard spring with thin shock oil or soft spring with thick oil?

example: 1.8mm spring with 300oil vs 1.4mm spring with 700oil.
the oil is really a fine tuning tool for the spring. so many variables Keaves.
if the track is smooth no bumps, i would be using a thicker oil and a hard spring. it really is a negative to use a hard spring and thin oil, or light spring and thick oil. but it also is dependant on how many holes in your pistons.
a hard spring needs more dampening to prevent it bouncing. this is thicker oil or less holes. may be ok on a smooth track, but put some bumps on it, and im sure the thin oil hard spring shock will bounce on you and take some control of the car away. a light spring with thisck oil may slow the shock down so much that the wheell looses contact of the track. the spring cant overcome the thickness of the oil fat enough to keep the wheel on the ground. but if you run 4 holes at 1.2 it may be ok. all depends on the track surface. i know Menace was trying out this sort of shock setup, but a too softer spring can take away grip too by letting the axis collapse on itself too easily, then the chassis hits the ground and lifts the wheel off the ground. but your choice how you want to run the car, and how it feels for you.
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Old 02-26-2009, 01:00 PM   #272
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Originally Posted by keavze View Post
now back to 'business'...

what's the difference or how will the car be affected if you use a hard spring with thin shock oil or soft spring with thick oil?

example: 1.8mm spring with 300oil vs 1.4mm spring with 700oil.
The oil determines how fast the shock shaft moves, this is also referred to as dampening. If low dampening is desired you would use a lower weight oil to facilitate a higher speed. To raise the dampening (slow the speed) you would need to use a heavier weight oil.

Pistons control what speed the oil flows from the lower chamber of the shock to upper chamber and visa-versa. A larger hole, more holes, or a combination of both in the piston will give a faster flow which will give a higher shaft speed (lower dampening), smaller holes or less holes in turn will slow down the shaft (higher dampening). This is effectively the same as using lighter or thicker oil but there are less concerns about oil contamination (two different oil weights being mixed).

The shock dampening should be tuned to the fastest movement that the shock shaft will encounter. This is done to allow the shock to have consistent and quick reaction without causing a back-up in the transition of the oil between the chambers (see piston hydrodynamics). If a back-up occurs the dampening will have a negative effect on handling of the vehicle because it will not allow the spring to start and complete itıs job effectively.

If the dampening is to high the shock will act as a secondary spring or spring bumper which will not allow the vehicle to transition through rapid changes in direction easily. Over dampening will smooth out the ride of a vehicle over minor bumps by making them almost invisible to the springs. Major bumps will cause the vehicle to become unstable. The major of concern of over dampening is that the car will become sluggish through chicanes and in avoidance maneuvers.

If the dampening is to low the shock will not be able to control the spring causing the car to oscillate (bounce continuously) causing a loss of grip over any bump. Transitions in a low dampening situation will be extremely quick, most of the time too quick. The main concern of this situation is that the car becomes extremely unstable under any situation. The one thing that an under dampened situation helps, is that it is able to absorb large bumps with ease.

It is better for the car to be over dampened than under dampened because an unstable car is uncontrollable. The optimum dampening should be just enough to stop the spring from oscillating.

The job of the spring is to hold the weight of the vehicle above the ground and control the movement of the suspension.

The stiffness determines how much force is required to compress the spring.
A higher stiffness will require m ore weight to compress the spring than one with a lower stiffness. The stiffness of a spring has a tremendous affect on how a vehicle will respond to the surfaces that it travels across and how the tires will react.


Since shocks control the spring and springs control the car, the relationship is fairly simple. The dampening is there to keep the car from oscillating (or bouncing) which reduces the contact of the tires to the road. It is essential to match the shock oil with the particular stiffness of spring that is to be used. If this is not accomplished the car will either be over or under dampened. To find the optimum you must make sure that the car can traverse bumps in the track without oscillating continuously after the initial bump. If an oscillation occurs, the spring that you are using is too stiff or your dampening is too low. A car that is set-up correctly should have no oscillation yet have a very quick reacting suspension.

my 2cents
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Old 02-26-2009, 01:23 PM   #273
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No hard feelings SP it's cool.

From the looks of the Wolf Hobbies website the part is available (K14145-5), that is if you order the WC upgrade for $200USD!!! For a measly bumper cap?? I looked like I can only get that bumper cap with the WC kit. I called and nobody answered.
Good thing was I remember seeing the part (by itself) available from RC Mushroom. I told myself I'd never order from overseas again because of the price of shipping but I'll make this exception. I even bought the fastest shipping method meaning shipping cost more than what I ordered! Oh well, I really need the part.

Keave, springs are for rebound while pistons and oil are for dampening. There is a such thing as too much spring for the oil and vice versa.
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Old 03-01-2009, 03:23 PM   #274
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Very beautiful!

















I am yet to read this whole thread... but i thought the G4+ Evo was spose to have Alloy ED system the same as the original G4+?????

Thanks
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Old 03-01-2009, 11:54 PM   #275
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It's probably to keep the cost down. It is the ED system but as you said they are plastic pulleys. Where you put the pin in the back of them there is another slot so when they wear out you just spin them 90 degrees and they fit like new again. I've used the plastic ED system and i can't fault it, apart from the fact you have to use 'e' clips.
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Old 03-02-2009, 12:32 AM   #276
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It's probably to keep the cost down. It is the ED system but as you said they are plastic pulleys. Where you put the pin in the back of them there is another slot so when they wear out you just spin them 90 degrees and they fit like new again. I've used the plastic ED system and i can't fault it, apart from the fact you have to use 'e' clips.
plastic pulleys are lighter than alum alloy? so it's better...
another thing is that alum pulleys wear belts much faster.
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Old 03-02-2009, 01:08 AM   #277
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I bought the alloy pulleys just for more bling on my +Evo but I'm not going to put them on. This is one of those areas where durability and performance is more important than bling.
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Old 03-02-2009, 01:40 AM   #278
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Hey Guys,

My name is Paul Hodak, brother of Kodak Hodak "Frankie" well i am very NEW here and need all the help to get my TM G4S up and running.

I look forward to reading and viewing others posts.
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Old 03-02-2009, 01:46 AM   #279
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Hey Guys,

My name is Paul Hodak, brother of Kodak Hodak "Frankie" well i am very NEW here and need all the help to get my TM G4S up and running.

I look forward to reading and viewing others posts.
Howdy Paul, i talk to Frankie every once and a while still, he was chasing batteries the other day, did he find the 1000mah ?
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Old 03-02-2009, 01:51 AM   #280
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Howdy Paul, i talk to Frankie every once and a while still, he was chasing batteries the other day, did he find the 1000mah ?
yeah we found one eventually 900mah, and Rob did all the fancy soldering - soon i ll be unleashing the beast- just got my Spektrum today DX2.0
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Old 03-02-2009, 03:04 AM   #281
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Understand the durabilty issues... but does this mean the G4+ Evo runs the stock brake disc that is too big and rubs on the crank case? The G4+ had the aftermarket smaller diameter brake disc and i know a few people installed this in G4Rs, but it meant having to run the 2 speed shaft and alloy pullies.
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Old 03-02-2009, 06:38 AM   #282
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Understand the durabilty issues... but does this mean the G4+ Evo runs the stock brake disc that is too big and rubs on the crank case? The G4+ had the aftermarket smaller diameter brake disc and i know a few people installed this in G4Rs, but it meant having to run the 2 speed shaft and alloy pullies.
RS and +evo brake disc are the same but they're bigger than the +'s?

anyway i'm using k1443...no need to use the + shaft and alum pullies.
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Old 03-02-2009, 09:56 AM   #283
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hey selling my used g4 with lots of spare parts and optional on it for $450
pm me if interested and i will give you more information on the car
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Old 03-02-2009, 02:55 PM   #284
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RS and +evo brake disc are the same but they're bigger than the +'s?

anyway i'm using k1443...no need to use the + shaft and alum pullies.
Thanks Keavze... Is it smaller in diameter as well?
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Old 03-02-2009, 07:17 PM   #285
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chiefy you got pm just in case you did not notice
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