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Old 10-17-2008, 04:56 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by vadn1 View Post
Both cars are good, the DM-1 spec a little better.
DM-1 spec car is way better than the weak looking GT2.
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Old 10-17-2008, 05:04 AM   #32
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GT2 isn't weak, GT1 wasn't weak. GT2 works great on track. It may look weak, since it's not a tank. Nobody needs a tank in onroad.

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Old 10-17-2008, 09:18 AM   #33
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yeah I agree, watching both cars at our track there is not much if any difference between the two and the kyosho looked like it got out of the corners a little quicker than the dm1
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Old 10-17-2008, 09:35 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hello View Post
DM-1 spec car is way better than the weak looking GT2.
I don't know you can use the word WEAK to describe these IGT car...if they are weak, I think my $600 1/8th on road or $400 1/10th on road are WAY WEAKER then these IGT cause I know I have to stock $300 of parts for each of them...LOL

But I would say the Dm1-spec is a more advance model compare to the IGT2. But on the track racing (not bashing)...I am sure they are very much the same on performance.
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Old 10-20-2008, 06:23 AM   #35
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dm-1 luks better
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Old 10-20-2008, 07:57 PM   #36
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Default Here's some facts...

Here's some factual evidence...

I got my DM-one today. I ran into brooklyn to get it after work, I already have it broken in!! I couldn't resist- wasn't even going to touch it tonite, but it just looked at me funny and I knew it had to be done!..
I already got my Spektrum gear in there, and the stock .28 is already broken in.

First impressions: first off, this GT class is going to be a PISSA.. while it's true all the 8th scalers are kinda homogenized, this is actually a fresh take on 8th scale, and it seems like a BLAST. After half a dozen tanks or so, I was actually shifting- what a blast, thing's like a rocket, tear-assing up and down my block! can't wait to see this on a track! when you spool down through 2nd gear you can actually hear gear whine! this thing is BITCHIN!

GT2 vs DM-one: I went to Willis just to look at one vs. the other. They did NOT have the spec (1.8th) version of the DM-one, only the 7th scale. They DID have a GT2 to compare it to though- and the first thing I criticized is that the suspension and all "links" are weak and have lots of play on the kyosho. The OFNA is tight as a crabs ass, I was very impressed with the 7th scale at the shop, however now that I actually received my 8th scale "spec" version, I hafta say, OFNA REALLY got its shit together on this one- the chassis was tight and set up really just about perfect for out of the box. THere was nearly no play anywhere, even at the wheels.

On the street: I haven't been on the track yet, but once I was up to actually running throttle blasts, I did try two types of tire- I like the ipanema rubbers, but I also have foams and I just favor the foams I think... I dunno- too early to tell.

Anyhow- real nice job OFNA- the Dm-one spec is a winner! check out my other thread to see pics of my new DM8 body! I tried the marble-ized effect for the first time... I think it came out pretty hot. I'm really impressed - especially for an RTR - this thing has been good so far in every aspect- even the pull-start (my starter box is effed) and even the pull start worked easy and the OFNA .28 seems very decent for an RTR mill... can't wait to see it with a REX at floyd b~!!!!

Bottom line, I almost left Willis with that GT2 that day, and I'm actually REALLY glad I waited for the OFNA and got something that's noticeably better, or so it seems, quality wise.
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Old 10-20-2008, 08:18 PM   #37
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Good luck at the races "Scudman"
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Old 10-21-2008, 02:31 AM   #38
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The "play" is rather easy to remove by adding few shims to the drive shafts if it is an issue. Just wait until you car wears out a bit.
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Old 10-21-2008, 02:17 PM   #39
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Scudman, Thank you for giving our Dm-1 a thumbs up it feels good when you know your car is as fast a 1/10th sedan on speed, and cool job on your body, keep it pretty and beware of moving curbs.
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Old 10-22-2008, 12:20 PM   #40
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I have 15 tanks through my DM-1 spec with a Sportwerks .26 and JP4 pipe. I run a Jammin buggy and truggy so I knew the gear quality was there but this car will take a flat out beating and and stay tight as a knats but hole. I smacked a curb with the left front corner at a 45 degree angle at about 25 to 30 mph and the car did about 4 roundy rounds. I was so sure I was buying parts that I shut it down to inspect it. Not a hint of damage not even a change to the steering trim was needed! I'm running 100,000 in the front 2000 in the rear and stock shock oil with rear shocks stood up on the tower and the rear end follows the front around like its on tracks. Out of the box, I tightened up the front upper cup adjusters to take out a tiny bit of play and stood the right rear wheel up a 1/2 degree to match the left and the rest of the car was dialed.
I have a spare set of alloy chassis braces but was afraid they will take out steering or forward bite. Any help on the braces would be greatly apprec. I still love my GTP2...it takes more chassis tuning to get it handle but it is almost as good as the DM1S.
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Old 10-22-2008, 12:32 PM   #41
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Another happy customer, Thank you CrzySvage.
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Old 10-22-2008, 01:25 PM   #42
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Another happy customer, Thank you CrzySvage.
Hey R2, I know you guys have been running the original and spec version of the DM-1 in Caly for quite awhile, can you give me some input on the plastic and alloy chassis braces. I also have noticed that you guys run the white springs in the rear of the DM1S, are they harder or softer than stock and do you know the stock fluid viscosities in the diffs and shocks of the spec ARR version. Thanks for any help.
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Old 10-22-2008, 02:01 PM   #43
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The alum braces will work better on high bite smooth tracks, for bumpy or med to low traction surfaces the plastic braces will probably be better.

Red=Soft
White=Med
Yellow=Firm

I'm not sure what comes in them stock, but I wouldn't run it that way. I'd pull both diffs, and the shocks and build them with what you want, so that way there is no question about it...

Most are running 120k in the front diff, and anywhere between 5k and 10k in the rear. 2k front shocks, and 1k rear shocks...

I'm not DJ, but I know what they are running (for the most part anyway), and figured I'd chime in...

If you're on the west coast, then hopefully we'll see you at Crystal Park this weekend for the KO Propo Gran Prix...
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Old 10-22-2008, 02:15 PM   #44
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It is absolutely true- first thing you should do, once the car is broken is, is pull the diff's on put 120K in front- it will make the car track truer and drive more predictably.

The 2-speed in this thing is ON POINT. It shifts literally perfectly, to the point where you can intentionally shift it up on throttle and then back off and use second gear in the infield- in short, I'm uber impressed with the tranny in this thing

clutch- I can almost guarentee by next season there will TONS of new clutch ideas going around... just look at 8th scale pan; plain and simple a clutch is the difference between a great car and a shitty car... the clutch in this is decent- but as a few guys already mentioned, you need to torque of a big-block for it to work effectively. I can see guys taking it to a whole 'nother level by dropping modded .21 on roads in with centrax clutches. I think it's not IF, but when.... hurry up guys!
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Old 10-22-2008, 02:45 PM   #45
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Several of us have Centax clutches in our DM1 (original), and they do work well, but the weight of the car seemed to cause the shoe to wear a bit on the quick side. Plus the chassis had to be modified (Dremel'd) for the Centax to be used. I like having the ability to adjust the clutch, but for a long run I feel the standard 3 or 4 shoe setup will be the best...
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