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Old 09-29-2008, 02:38 AM   #16
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I have had Serpent, Mugen and Kyosho; and I can tell you like the rest of the fellows, you can have a $450 car,but if you cant set it up you wont get after the first turn. When I was starting out, no matter what setup I used, I had a problem that I would spin out. I could use the identical setup as a team driver, and still have a bad setup car. My problem was the rebound in the shocks... The shocks need to be so that when you push them, you dont hear/feel air inside of them and that when you push them, they push back about 3/4 of the shaft slowly... This is a very important factor when it comes to car setting.
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Old 09-29-2008, 07:56 AM   #17
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down load this etup manual and read through it a few times and then start looking at the car and what teh manual explians.
When at the track reference to the setup guide to what you need to do to solve your problem.
Practice makes perfect so dont expect miracles right away, its all about educating your self to what is needed for setting up a car no matter what make it is.
Also a good idea to use a base setup as a point of reference so that after making changes you can always go back to the base setup if the changes are not working.

http://www.serpent.com/file.php?FileID=4719
http://www.serpent.com/file.php?FileID=4718

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Old 09-29-2008, 08:57 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by didrace View Post
I can understand exaclty what you mean but why does the serpent needs a lot of tuning and setup where as the other guys in the track that are using the kyoshos and the x rays have a good hadling without a lot of set up and stuff..

So the only option that is worth changing for better hadling is the chassis?

or we can better say is the most important one?


why did you change your? did it made a lot of difference?

have you check the new wc centax? does it worth the money?

whats the diff?
didrace, i not long ago got a used 720, it is the first of them, so infact yours is later than the one im currently running. i started off with a std box setup and worked from there. all information is on the serpent website. www.serpent.com
if you download the 720 manual, and teh setup booklet, this will explain setup to you and there are some setups on that site also. but do look at the 720 08 for setups. as far as shocks and droop are concerned, its all the same to the one you have. i would say you have a oneway in your car. this can be very hard to drive , specially if you have alot of braking or brake pressure setup on your radio. this will make the car spin out in an instant if your using the brakes. if you have no other option, try to lock the one way with pins. this will make it a solid front axle. will be much easier to drive for you over a one way. the new gearbox, or engine mounts or any other updates, wont help your car or your drivng. the std car is good. i have no other options on my car apart from some tuning options, like the new +1 front steering hubs. but again this is for fine tuning your setup. first you have to find a setup for your self. no new car or an upgrade can help you there. read the setup guide on the serpent site to get an understanding of how it all works. every car requires this kind of setup, you will learn nothing if some one does it for you, so you must read and ge an understanding. use the std setup on the 720 08 as a starting point. but again lock that one way up to help your braking and spinning out. have fun reading.
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Old 09-29-2008, 11:30 AM   #19
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I am amazed from your support guys...you are amazing.


Thanks to all and i hope you all have success in your life and rc..
thanks for the setup and for all the info..

The thing with my car is that its hadling depends from the tyre..

for example one time i used new front set and a bit worn rear set and the car was hadling ok..

the other time i used both front and rear new and for the first 10 laps the car had a very bad hadling..

the thing with the rebound i have checked it on the x ray manual but i did not understand exaclty how the thing works.

more rebound better hadling?

my car is very difficult to drive..

you have to be very smooth with the steering wheel..

is not forgiving...

guys where can i buy new parts and the chassis ? i live in london..rc mushroom has a lot of things but not the chassis

another thing i want to mention is when i watch the video on youtube you could see and understand that the car was forgiving..

you could see that it had rear traction at any speed acceleration etc..

he could change direction at any instant without understeering or oversteering..

he could accelarate at any instant with the nose of the car where he wanted
how do they make their cars to hadle like that..?

i have read x rays manual but i have not studied it..

what shells are good to buy?

and what tyre are you using..

am using the xceed 40 shore front and rear..
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Old 09-29-2008, 01:29 PM   #20
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didrace,Tires sizes & hardness & brand are very important not all tires are the same even if the shore ratings are. Japanese rubber is different from American rubber.
It sounds to me like your car is nervous.try some toe out on the front and toe in on the rear.maybe dial some steering out of the radio.Check your clutch gap.Check differential should be smooth feeling, check tweek.disconnect your rear sway bar and see how that works.Do they treat your track with traction compound.Sometimes in the morning the track is slicker than in the afternoon.
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Old 09-29-2008, 03:31 PM   #21
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cmego thanks for the reply..

no the treatment of the trackis just brushing it with the broome..nothing else..

the twek i checked is fine...i used to have the clutch very loose and the car was spining in every attempt i made to accelarate and i tighten it so that it engages after sometime ...and its fine i think now..

but the car is very nervous as you said..

i use solid axle in the front....

rear diff oil i think is 30 000

rear spings are hpi soft i think,

rear spring oil i think is 35..

i tried to change the dual rate and it made difference but when it come to close bents (tight track it understeers)

they all say my car is drifting to give you an idea


the rear end is not forgiving at different speeds...

i wish i had a car tha goes like the one in the vid..

i think we need to buy one from the team drivers and copy down all the setups..
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Old 09-29-2008, 04:08 PM   #22
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Im no expert but I pit with a couple of them. One of the things I learned about setup is that "I think" never works. Take your car apart, clean it all up and put it back together.

Take your shocks apart and build them with Serpent 35wt oil, make sure theres no air in them. Now grab those HPI springs an toss them in the trash. Go to the LHS and get yourself a set of front and rear Serpent springs, I would start with red rears, and blue fronts. Or copy a setup from the serpent website. For the tires, I would start with 40f and 40r. Make sure the tires are the same brand, some brands don’t work together when you mix them.

Some people are going to wonder at this question, but, are you running the wing on your body? I’ve seen some beginners that think that the wing is not needed, but it is.
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Old 09-29-2008, 04:16 PM   #23
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Best thing to do is tear down the kit and rebuild to what is called for in the factory manual. Then go to you local hobby shop and get a copy of the XXX Main Radio Control Car Chassis Setup Guide. That will help you learn just about all you need to know about setup based on what the car is doing on any given track. Hope this helps.

I've seen every kit out there and if the setup is right any of the kits mentioned can take you to the front of the field. You just need to make a commitment to learn how all the different adjustments can effect your car.

Regards,
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Old 09-29-2008, 04:20 PM   #24
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Go down to 10k in the rear diff... If its still to nervous, go 90 degrees on the front anti-roll bar... and they said, get some serpent springs... I personally use blue rear and yellow front...
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Old 09-29-2008, 04:31 PM   #25
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If this is a slick parking lot track you need a bit softer tire. Try 37's.

Definitely need thinner fluid in the diff. Try 5,000 or 10,000.

If your car has different upper mounting positions for the rear shocks move them to the lowest/farthest in set of holes.

Don't be afraid to crank 3 or even 3.5 degrees of toe-in on the rear for slick tracks. This really helps forward bite off the corner.
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Old 09-29-2008, 05:37 PM   #26
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Guys i just bought the xxx main setup guide..

I hope its better than the x ray one...

is the best thing?
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Old 09-30-2008, 06:00 AM   #27
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i had same problem before... i post in serpent 720 thread... i almost gave up my 720 about a year ago... i ended up changing most if not all the plastic parts, but eventually, it's the shocks... u need time n a lot of try n error in rebuilding them... u can still manage to drive ur car even with some weary plastic parts (not race though) but if ur shocks ain't set rite, then no matter what setup u try will still fail... try rebuild ur shock (buy the default 35 shock oil with some serpent springs) n try the default setup... i never try diff oil below 20,000 (lowest i tried in low traction track is 20,000) n mostly i'm running 30,000 but with high traction, 40,000 is very good...

thinner diff oil at rear will tends to lose grip when braking (or off trottle)... unless the track is very very low traction... it's a mix n match (setup n track traction)...

then learn to drive ur car (i'm still drive badly due to err bad skill)... start with 37 shore tyres front n rear... body is ok... most 200mm touring body r ok... u may wan to start with stratus... or the serpent civic body seems very bashable..!

btw, ur car is understeer or oversteer??? i'm kinda confuse here...

good luck...
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Old 09-30-2008, 07:13 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by didrace View Post
Guys i just bought the xxx main setup guide..

I hope its better than the x ray one...

is the best thing?
The XXX main book is like the bible of setup manuals. I use it as well as most drivers that I know! Just look up the symptoms of your car and just look through the chapters. Alot of the vocabulary that most of us use is all through that book. (push, under steer, over steer,etc..) That book will walk you though it all. The key is to make one change at a time and note what changes what. I use a note book and write my changes and how they make the car feel. Eventually, your car will feel right when you get it set up correctly. When that happens, you will drive that 720 harder than you ever did before and the car will ask for more. Read the book and take your time.
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Old 09-30-2008, 07:19 AM   #29
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Oh yea, make sure you have a set up station and a good setup board. There are many good ones out there and anything is better than nothing.


I just read your set up. Problems that I see and I added a few solutions!
Your rear diff fluid is too high. <---this is why your car is swaping ends. Try 10,000 or lower. I use 7000 for parking lot tracks.
Your front is locked. Good! If running a front diff use 30,000 diff fluid.
Your Shock oil is a bit low. Try 40 to 50
Wrong Shock springs. Stick with Serpent springs for Serpent cars! (Red fronts, yellow rears.. that works for me on low bite tracks.)

Move your rear swaybar to it most forward part of the bar. If your track is bumpy, disconnect the rear swaybar.
Front swaybar to 45 to 90 degrees.
Set your rear toe to 3 degrees like Wingracer said.
Rear camber 2.5 degrees
Front toe out 1.5 degrees (works for me!)
Front camber 1.5
Front, shock straight up. Rear, position 2 second from the bottom.

This set up works for me when I go to parking lot tracks. This will help!
Tires 35 to 38 shore all around. cut to 61 rear 59 front.
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Old 09-30-2008, 12:46 PM   #30
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what's up didrace, I have a 720/08 and when I first built it with the default set and raced it thr car handled perfect. I ran the car for three weekends then I go to race on the 4th weekend and the car would spin out bad. I went over the car the arms had play the diff was dry,the clutch was out os adjustment. What I am saying is you have to go over you car after every race.
These guys are telling you right. Just study the setup book. good luck
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