Kyosho Super 10 QUESTIONS
#1
Kyosho Super 10 QUESTIONS
ok guys my friend has a Super 10 year 1996 model and ... it is difficult to control at high speeds ... setups is ok ... but at TOP speed ist 'wriggling" any pof u super 10 guru's know what to do with it ??
TYTY
TYTY
#2
What kind of track are you running it on? What kind of shocks and springs do you have??
#3
Tech Master
Re: Kyosho Super 10 QUESTIONS
Originally posted by imataquito
ok guys my friend has a Super 10 year 1996 model and ... it is difficult to control at high speeds ... setups is ok ... but at TOP speed ist 'wriggling" any pof u super 10 guru's know what to do with it ??
TYTY
ok guys my friend has a Super 10 year 1996 model and ... it is difficult to control at high speeds ... setups is ok ... but at TOP speed ist 'wriggling" any pof u super 10 guru's know what to do with it ??
TYTY
1. Rear shock and springs, make sure they are in the same oil wt and spring rate, check the bladder inside the shock too!
2. Check the rear diff, if it is too loose then when power apply to the rear axle and both rear wheels are trying to fight for traction and if they dont spin at the same speed then you will have "Wriggling" types of react!
Hope that helps
#4
um ... yes all the shocks and springs are equal .. i have checked all of them .. A-Arms are not binding etc etc
its ok when its slowe on 1st gear wheever it shifts to 2nd gear its fast but it would be hard to control as heck .... no idea why but tamiya TG10R TG10 or TGX does not have these effects ... when they r at the same speed
the car would wriggle wriggle ( wondering) then go into a spin 360 or 180 then the engine would halt .... like a full scale spinout
its not good for the car at all ...
well driving skills would not be a problem .. cause he and i drive other kinds of nitro and electrict cars and much higher speeds but the kyosho seemed wierd ... BTW ... most super 10 reported the same problems and i m wondering is theres some EXTRA tips on how to get rid of these problems if everything is ok
used 80W 2 hole rear 0 deg camber rear ( more stright line traction and control ) stiff roll bars progresive springs red/yellow
fornt 80W 2 hole 0 deg camber stiff roll bars blue/purple springs
its ok when its slowe on 1st gear wheever it shifts to 2nd gear its fast but it would be hard to control as heck .... no idea why but tamiya TG10R TG10 or TGX does not have these effects ... when they r at the same speed
the car would wriggle wriggle ( wondering) then go into a spin 360 or 180 then the engine would halt .... like a full scale spinout
its not good for the car at all ...
well driving skills would not be a problem .. cause he and i drive other kinds of nitro and electrict cars and much higher speeds but the kyosho seemed wierd ... BTW ... most super 10 reported the same problems and i m wondering is theres some EXTRA tips on how to get rid of these problems if everything is ok
used 80W 2 hole rear 0 deg camber rear ( more stright line traction and control ) stiff roll bars progresive springs red/yellow
fornt 80W 2 hole 0 deg camber stiff roll bars blue/purple springs
#5
Originally posted by imataquito
um ... yes all the shocks and springs are equal .. i have checked all of them .. A-Arms are not binding etc etc
its ok when its slowe on 1st gear wheever it shifts to 2nd gear its fast but it would be hard to control as heck .... no idea why but tamiya TG10R TG10 or TGX does not have these effects ... when they r at the same speed
the car would wriggle wriggle ( wondering) then go into a spin 360 or 180 then the engine would halt .... like a full scale spinout
its not good for the car at all ...
well driving skills would not be a problem .. cause he and i drive other kinds of nitro and electrict cars and much higher speeds but the kyosho seemed wierd ... BTW ... most super 10 reported the same problems and i m wondering is theres some EXTRA tips on how to get rid of these problems if everything is ok
used 80W 2 hole rear 0 deg camber rear ( more stright line traction and control ) stiff roll bars progresive springs red/yellow
fornt 80W 2 hole 0 deg camber stiff roll bars blue/purple springs
um ... yes all the shocks and springs are equal .. i have checked all of them .. A-Arms are not binding etc etc
its ok when its slowe on 1st gear wheever it shifts to 2nd gear its fast but it would be hard to control as heck .... no idea why but tamiya TG10R TG10 or TGX does not have these effects ... when they r at the same speed
the car would wriggle wriggle ( wondering) then go into a spin 360 or 180 then the engine would halt .... like a full scale spinout
its not good for the car at all ...
well driving skills would not be a problem .. cause he and i drive other kinds of nitro and electrict cars and much higher speeds but the kyosho seemed wierd ... BTW ... most super 10 reported the same problems and i m wondering is theres some EXTRA tips on how to get rid of these problems if everything is ok
used 80W 2 hole rear 0 deg camber rear ( more stright line traction and control ) stiff roll bars progresive springs red/yellow
fornt 80W 2 hole 0 deg camber stiff roll bars blue/purple springs
#6
um packed the diffs with #6000 mugen grease back and 9000 front if i am not mistaken ....cant remember
#7
Tech Addict
You probrably already checked this but first of all -
are the tires completely glued on all around the rims
does he have the same compound tires on all four corners,
-if not are the front and rear the same left and right
-and are the rear softer than the front
If these are ok and the rest of your set up looks ok, then changing the diff grease or oil should fix the problem.
put something very light in the rear so that you can spin the rear wheels freely by hand. ( in oil about 5000 )
put something medium to heavy in the front ( in oil 30,000 to 100,000 ) Im not sure about weights of grease.
This should fix the problem but the car will tend to understeer or push in corners so work your way back by reducing the front diff oil weight .
as long as the rear diff is realy loose and the front is very tight the car will be stable - then you will have to work your way back to get a good balance for corner speed, and more drive out of corners
A good start is 5,000 rear and 30,000 oil in front for tight corners
and 10,000 rear 50,000 front for larger open track.
I'm not sure of similar grease weights - maybe someone else could help
are the tires completely glued on all around the rims
does he have the same compound tires on all four corners,
-if not are the front and rear the same left and right
-and are the rear softer than the front
If these are ok and the rest of your set up looks ok, then changing the diff grease or oil should fix the problem.
put something very light in the rear so that you can spin the rear wheels freely by hand. ( in oil about 5000 )
put something medium to heavy in the front ( in oil 30,000 to 100,000 ) Im not sure about weights of grease.
This should fix the problem but the car will tend to understeer or push in corners so work your way back by reducing the front diff oil weight .
as long as the rear diff is realy loose and the front is very tight the car will be stable - then you will have to work your way back to get a good balance for corner speed, and more drive out of corners
A good start is 5,000 rear and 30,000 oil in front for tight corners
and 10,000 rear 50,000 front for larger open track.
I'm not sure of similar grease weights - maybe someone else could help
#8
hm ... ok will try ... harder front ... slowly
Thank U
Thank U