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Old 08-28-2008, 10:13 AM   #16
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yes, the little screw on the side of the carb... the HPI is really a very tough basher car huh..! better than CEN racing rtr... u might wan to try the kyosho inferno GT...
yeah before this car from barnies I had the evo rtr rs4 3 and I had the .18 cvr from os.....and well needless to say when second hit the front end lifted and tumbled 20 time everytime!! very fun, tough, and exilerating!!!


SJ
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Old 08-28-2008, 04:42 PM   #17
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Ok so I tried the needle on the side of the carb and nothing happened, it just bogged out and shut off, it was still racing when this happened...I do not know what happen This car ran fine untill I touched it lol....I think I tweaked the wrong needle somewhere along the lines.....

Can anyone give me stock needle settings? I think the high speed is four turns out...whats the idle and the needle under the air filter?


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Old 08-29-2008, 01:17 AM   #18
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hey, the screw under the air filter is your idle screw. I think you may have turned the low speed needle or maybe even the mid range needle(if equipped)
Good luck
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Old 08-29-2008, 08:19 AM   #19
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yeah thats what I thought.......but when i readjust it nothing happens.....I also see that my carb doesnt open up all the way either anymore lol, boy o boy im in deep crap lol.....I done screwed it up.....


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Old 09-01-2008, 02:28 PM   #20
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update....still having probs.....Anyone know where I can find the stock settings so I can start all over again?


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Old 09-01-2008, 10:51 PM   #21
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can u bring ur car to ur nearby hobby shop or track so some1 can actually help u out???
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Old 09-02-2008, 08:06 AM   #22
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I guess I could but they will charge me lol.....
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Old 09-02-2008, 02:04 PM   #23
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I guess I could but they will charge me lol.....
try reseting the needles.flush the LSN and the HSN. remove the ball cup that connects to the carb from your servo(linkage).push the carb in,until the carb close all the way.if it doesnt close all the way.try holding it and turn counterclock wise the idle needle,its below the HSN.then turn clockwise while holding the carb until it opens alittle not to wide about .3mm. then put back the linkage then set it with your radio on.adjust your radio that when its in neutral its not pullin the carb and on WOT it pulls all the way but not to much.then start tuning it.when you start it and it stalls try turning the LSN 1hr and the carb needle 1/2hr clockwise.remember 1hr at a time.once you set the idle leave it. if this still doesnt work go to a local track near you and ask for help.where do you live?
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Old 09-02-2008, 02:34 PM   #24
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Moy Thanks!! I will give this a whirl today......I live in Abbottstown Pa. 17301
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Old 09-02-2008, 04:20 PM   #25
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anytime. hope you fix your problem.try to find a track close to you,and ask for help dont be shy.we all started like that.
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Old 09-03-2008, 04:30 PM   #26
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Watched the video and from the sound of it I think the main problem is on the throttle likage endpoint adjustments. When you applied the brakes the idle dropped immediately and that is an indication that the slide valve is not hitting your idle needle and is to far open at idle. This is causing the high idle which is spinning your clutch to fast and causing the car to roll. This should not happen at idle.To correct this be sure the slide valve is closing down and stopping on the the idle needle. As far as the slide valve not opening all the way to full throttle; you need to set the end point throttle adjustment on your remote so that it extends to full throttle. Hope this helps. Once both end points are set on the throttle you can then adjust the idle properly and start tuning the low and high end adjustments. If not you'll be chasing the tuning all day long. Also, don't rely on engine temp only. Some motors run there best at temps up between 250 and 280. As long as you have good smoke comming out from the bottom to top of your revs while racing your okay. If the smoke gets to light or goes away altogether then it's to lean. Hope this helps.

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Old 09-04-2008, 01:53 PM   #27
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Ok Im losing myself in this crap lol. For some reason the servo throttle arm seems to be the problem. I don't know how it got moved but it did. Can anyone help me figure out what position the arms have to be in on the servo wheels while in the on position? I do not have a local hobby track anyway near me, so going there is out of the question.


Ok while the servo is on where should the linkage be?


It seems when I pusg the brake, the arm puts ALOT of pressure on the carb ball/arm. Sounds like its going to break. I know that not healthy, but when I try to move it to a new spot where it doesn't do that it doesn't open the carb right....Ill still be tinkering with it while I wait, just reply and Ill get it thanks
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Old 09-04-2008, 02:27 PM   #28
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Speedjunkyz,

You have a PM
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Old 09-04-2008, 02:31 PM   #29
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ok i will....


Update I see my carb arm ripping lol......
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Old 09-04-2008, 02:52 PM   #30
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Default Radio Manual

Speedjunkyz,

Here, this should help with the radio.
Regards,
Speyederjedi

http://www.jrradios.com/ProdInfo/Fil...275-manual.pdf
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