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Old 08-27-2008, 09:36 AM   #1
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Default Muffler stay rod off

I stopped running the muffler stay rod on my Mugen MTX3 because every time I brush up against the wall I end up bending the stinger on my pipe or worse the singer just brakes off. I have found that without the muffler stay the pipe will just flex into the car in the event of a hit and there is less damage to the stinger. Also if the hit is hard enough the pipe simple bends into the car and the tires take the brunt of the impact on most side wall hits. Ive been looking into the new THS pipes that have the re-enforced stingers but I dont see any for 1/10 scale engines.

OK, OK I know the best remedy for this is to drive better and avoid hitting the walls but Im no pro driver here and the inevitable wall brush is sometimes unavoidable but until I get better Ive found that running with no muffler stay has saved me alot of $$$ not having to replace damaged pipes. Just want to get some feedback on this and see if this is a smart thing to do.
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Old 08-27-2008, 09:44 AM   #2
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How are you keeping the pipe from dragging the ground?
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Old 08-27-2008, 10:19 AM   #3
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Surprisingly the muffler stays put at any angle I put it. Ill have to take pics so its easier to understand but Ive done nothing special. I found that when I removed the muffler stay the pipe stayed in place. I do have a new coupler and a very tight spring holding the header but that's about it. It doesn't feel loose and does not move at all.
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Old 08-27-2008, 11:43 AM   #4
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Why not just use a smaller diameter peice of music wire as a hanger? It should be more springy than the stock wire and give more in the case of an impact. At the same time, it would help support the weight of the pipe and take the strain off of the header springs.
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Old 08-27-2008, 12:08 PM   #5
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Good tip Serzoni! A thinner wire will definitely work better than no wire Im sure. My idea is to let the muffler flex in as much as possible in the event of a side wall impact. Ive noticed that the stock muffler stay rod is very thick and stiff and does very little in giving in to an impact, therefore bending the pipes stinger or taring it off.
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Old 08-27-2008, 12:25 PM   #6
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Can't risk the muffler coming off
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Old 08-27-2008, 12:43 PM   #7
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Sounds like your header spring will become weak and break then you will lose your entire exhaust - i would definitely put something to help hold the weight of the pipe
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Old 08-27-2008, 12:48 PM   #8
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I hear you guys! I will definitely be putting something on there maybe a thinner wire for sure but I must admit its not that bad. Yeah Im sure the header spring will eventually get weak but its held up pretty good so far.

Any other suggestions on a softer metal I can use that will support the pipe but give in the event of a crash?
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Old 08-27-2008, 12:50 PM   #9
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And with nothing holding the front of the muffler up, how are your gaskets for your header and engine holding up?
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Old 08-27-2008, 01:38 PM   #10
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Gaskets holding up surprisingly well, trust me guys Ive always ran a muffler stay and I was just as amazed that I was able to run without one with no serious problems as far as dragging and damaging my header gasket. I just threw this out there to see if anyone has ever been able to run without one or even tried to run without one. Ill post some pics as soon as I get a chance. Main reason for posting again was the fact that Ive noticed that most muffler stays are very hard and have very little give on a side impact causing the stinger to bend or snap off. I guess I came up with a pretty peculiar solution but it sort of works.
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Old 08-27-2008, 01:51 PM   #11
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I had this problem with the MTX-3 also. For starters you need to make sure that when the pipe is connected to the muffler stay it is pulled in as close to the car as possible. My stinger is in not out past the side wall of the foam tires. In the event of a crash the stinger will not catch the wall but the rims will. Also. I noticed all stinger damage ceased when I drove a slower smoother line. Driving slower is not always bad. If you are slower but more consistent and do not break your car you will finish and win mains. Every A-main or B-main I run in start swith 12 people and only 5-8 finish. Most of the reason people drop out is because they are pushing too hard and break their car.
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Old 08-27-2008, 02:51 PM   #12
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I run a clothes hanger wire, the white colored one the metal its made of is very plyable, and in a impact it gives just enough not to damage your pipe or your pulley, you just have to bend it a special way i'll post a pic soon.
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Old 08-27-2008, 03:05 PM   #13
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RDL61217R5 is the part # for the exhaust system you want. It is for 1/10 TC, is legal, has re-inforced stinger, and very good performance too.
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Old 08-27-2008, 03:39 PM   #14
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A lot of pipe mounts these days come with a spring/coil intergrated in the design and are made to bend with side impact. I had a lot of stinger problems untill i tried the mount with a spring/coil in it and have not had a problem since. You should give it a go as having no pipe mount will just give you trouble in the not to distant future
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Old 08-27-2008, 04:18 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G87z View Post
I had this problem with the MTX-3 also. For starters you need to make sure that when the pipe is connected to the muffler stay it is pulled in as close to the car as possible. My stinger is in not out past the side wall of the foam tires. In the event of a crash the stinger will not catch the wall but the rims will. Also. I noticed all stinger damage ceased when I drove a slower smoother line. Driving slower is not always bad. If you are slower but more consistent and do not break your car you will finish and win mains. Every A-main or B-main I run in start swith 12 people and only 5-8 finish. Most of the reason people drop out is because they are pushing too hard and break their car.
I've always done the same thing. Use piano wire and make sure the pipe is tucked in as close to the chassis as allowable. This keeps the stinger tucked in behind the front tire so when you hit a wall it is impacting the tire and not the stinger. In some cases I even bend the header a bit to pull the pipe closer in.

Stinger repair: In some cases when a stinger does get bent I take a screw driver which fits perfectly into the stinger, then clamp some vise grips onto it with a towel wrapped around the stinger to prevent scratching. Then I slowly pull the stinger to its original position. If possible try and do this when the pipe is still hot as the metal is easier to work with. Try not to burn yourself.

Another tip for cleaning pipes, headers and cooling heads: Find an old crock pot and put enough engine coolant (anti-freeze) to cover the items you are wanting to clean. Place the temp setting on low and put the items in overnight. Do this in a well ventalated area. Next day pull out the items and you should be able to wipe the gunk right off. I've been using the same coolant for over 8 months and clean a few items once or twice a month.

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