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Old 09-04-2003, 10:14 PM   #31
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the things i hate about the mugen is it came without the VDS conversion !!! and i have to spend money to buy after market ones to fit it. shucks now i know why the EVO RR is so much nicer..

anyone wants to buy a cheap cheap NTC3?
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Old 09-04-2003, 10:41 PM   #32
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Haha, its pretty funny how you lose credibility on these forums because you post an honest opinion and experience maybe others do not share, or are too scared to share for whatever reason.

If I have lost credibility with you because of that, I honestly could care less.

Everything I have posted has been based on fact. Take it or leave it, I don't care.

I think anybody would get a little angry when a bunch of morons packs in and starts a complete flame war, name calling included in a thread which had nothing but ACTUAL experience and opinion posted.

Why do you think the thread was left open for so long? Not because I started the thread hissing and cussing; but because I started the thread with a valid and level headed complaint. That is, until ever moron on this board came out of the cracks and got involved in their usual bashing without using their heads

Anyways ... suck it up princess; not everybody loves the MTX3.

I thought it was the best kit in the world when I finished building it; then I ran it for 4 months straight ...

But of course theres no credibility in truth and experience. lol, go home and feed the pigs dude. I'm out.
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Old 09-04-2003, 10:42 PM   #33
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Regarding the stuck carb issue, the same thing happened to me on one of my MT-12's. I eventually just popped the damn thing into an oven for a few minutes (@ about 150F) and, using oven mitts, managed to remove the carb.
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Old 09-04-2003, 10:43 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally posted by chorner
[B]so fuse, you never have to take your clutch apart and give it a clean, and relube your thrust bearings? What about all the dirt that usually cakes in under the front pully; rec battery and all over the servos and your receiver?

Humm interesting.
The receiver area is the only place i ever had "caked dirt" ...mostly track dust and foam dust.. big deal, denatured alchohol took care of that..



Quote:
TSR6- you run on a dirty unprepared parkinglot and you have no problems with grit in the drive axles; CVD's? Can't usually get all that out with a compressor. Spraying denatured alcohol on your bearings (shielded especially) isn't the greatest idea. Have you checked your bearings yet for smoothness?
No problems with the bearings at all. Grit on the CVD's? None that I know of... nothing past what any normal CVD would encounter.

Quote:
Manual- I had absolutely no problems with building the kit; but come on .. you can't tell me the manual isn't lacking. They don't even provide you with an english setting sheet, or 'tips' in the back of the book. Again I had no problems, but everyone -even the RCCarAction reviewers have beefs with the Mugen manuals-
Is the manual as good as HPI, Losi, or AE? Maybe not, but I did not find it "lacking." If you've built a RC before, I don't think you should have a problem with the manual. If it was your first RC, I can understand how you might have some issues.

Quote:
Bearings- I didn't blow any out; but I certainly had to relube them and de-grit them atleast a few times. Especially the large metal shielded front bearings.
Wierd, I took them out of the bag, and ran them as is. It took a while for the car to free up, but all the bears are smooth as of the last time I did a full tear down. It only has one and a half race days on it since then, so i highly doubt my bearings are gritty.

Quote:
If you're as anal as I am about making sure every last cm of the kit is perfectly clean after every weekend, then you would have done a complete strip atleast a handful or more times. I had to do this every weekend with the MTX3; full dissasembly.
No, I am not anal. I clean it, yes, and make sure everything is in working order, but I don't tear it down every weekend and hit each and every part with a toothbrush.

An air compressor and denatured alchohol takes care of most of the road grime. I do tear it down occasionally to get rid of what is missed, but it's not much... ]
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Old 09-04-2003, 10:53 PM   #35
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The funny part is that you started ranting RIGHT after that complete moron Hellion had his ridiculous 2 cents to share about Mugen. What a coincidence! You should of damn well known that you'd be flamed because of your idoicy. Just because you made a mistake assembling the kit and are too cheap to pay for a $5 replacement, doesn't give you the right to start going off on a company, trying to get a free part. I better shut my mouth before it gets too nasty in here resultin in the thread getting locked
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Old 09-04-2003, 11:03 PM   #36
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Chorner...I just read your last post again. I really don't know what to say. You would be a great car salesman though, lie, lie, lie all day long to get your way, and know absolelutly nothing about anything.
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Old 09-04-2003, 11:04 PM   #37
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Fair enough TSR6


Quote:
Wierd, I took them out of the bag, and ran them as is. It took a while for the car to free up, but all the bears are smooth as of the last time I did a full tear down. It only has one and a half race days on it since then, so i highly doubt my bearings are gritty.
I took my bearings out of the bag and used them as is too. I'm sure everyone did; unless they replaced the bearings from the get-go. Thats a no brainer. So what was the point in mentioning that? The stock bearings aren't all that great; perhaps if you don't know better you never will? Oh well.

As for the manual, it will do ... but nothing special, and certainly is lacking in any descriptions or 'tips' in particular to the kit. Even somebody whose not a newbie appreciates that. Such as in the AE manual, all the little things count. I didn't have any trouble building the kit; except for the fact that I put thread-lock on some of the pivot balls for the steering linkage ... perhaps a drop too much? Either way, good luck getting those suckers off :P You have to push a pair of needle nose pliers under the plastic ball and and yank pretty hard to pop it out of the ball. This isn't a bad thing though, just an annoyance when you want to clean the balls and ball ends after they tend to get a little sticky after a while when small amounts of dust work their way between the ball and plastic ball end.

Regardless, the kit is fast no doubt. Handles pretty well after fiddling around with setups, and the plastics are extremely durable.

I just didn't really like the kit in the end ... enough said. Glad you guys like it though, what works works
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Old 09-04-2003, 11:10 PM   #38
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Super Mugen buddy old pal,

I started ranting right after seeing what Hellion had to go through with all the bullshit. I know he didn't exactly present his case in the best manner, but back the heck off; you guys are like a pack of wolves.

I figured I would step in and let them know he wasn't completely wrong with his dealings and experience with Mugen support; thats why I started the thread. Moreso out of anger that nobody gave a crap, bashed him to heck without thinking twice that what he said might have any truth.

Shall I start reminding you 'gentlemen' of your lack of intelligence or shall we cut it out right now? If you want to argue highs and lows of a kit, go for it ... but if you bring it into personal crap then go take a hike.

If you don't like me because I'm too bold and blunt for you, too bad .. go cry to mommy, but leave the crap for somebody who cares dude.
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Old 09-04-2003, 11:11 PM   #39
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I clean up my car the same way TSR6 did.....denatured and air compressor. I'm sure people have difference idea about their cars. My Impulse used to work out great for me! and I refuse to go with MTX2....but..after one weekend with my friend MTX2 and my setup skill. It feel that MTX2 seem to have much smoother ride.

Some how...I decided to go with NTC3 ...LOL... too many local guys convince me to it....it was a good car! but..after 3 or 4 race...things start to go wrong..and I have no idea what it was... until I took it all apart and rebuild the whole car again... not so bad of my time spend..found out just a few things to work on..but..any how... NTC3 is nice..but..for my driving habit! I need a car that will hold my seup a little better. LOL.... (hit too much board is not the way to drive any car either) Any how.. since I have so many Impulse parts...I decided to get the 705... so I did... and 705 have been giving me alot of problem and head ache!! just too much work for me to make sure it's all good. Any how..after 2 months of problems with 705...I decided to get MTX3... and so far I am loving it! ... and it bring me 2nd place 30min A main on my local tarck race!!

Check out my video!! just save it on your disk! 11MB

MTX-3 in on the roll! Check the Blue car.

Last edited by superk; 09-04-2003 at 11:18 PM.
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Old 09-04-2003, 11:13 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally posted by chorner
Fair enough TSR6




I took my bearings out of the bag and used them as is too. I'm sure everyone did; unless they replaced the bearings from the get-go. Thats a no brainer. So what was the point in mentioning that? The stock bearings aren't all that great; perhaps if you don't know better you never will? Oh well.
Bearings.. Hmm..

I used them as is... out of the bag. What I meant by that is that i did not degrease them, and re-lube them with a thinner bearing oil like normally do with my other cars. I still have not done that, and do not plan on it.

Are they the best bearings in the world? No, I won't dispute that, but I'm not going to buy one of those insanely expensive bearing kits to replace bearings that work fine as is..
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Old 09-04-2003, 11:25 PM   #41
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Ahh okay, gotcha

I didn't re-oil them either ... but perhaps I where I was running the grit was fine enough that it worked its way in the bearing at the particular track? It is possible.

I still am adament that they could have done a little better; atleast included some rubber sealed bearings up front as they do on the rear; but again ... the car was designed for purpose built tracks so the metal shielded bearing is actually smoother and offers less resistence .. so with that use in mind, it is probably the better bearing choice. They did however give me and others here problems; and some guys replaced the bearings and also put rubber sealed bearings in place of the metal shielded ones.

And no, I totally agree with you ... I wouldn't go out and buy expensive bearings either when the stock ones should be perfectly fine
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Old 09-04-2003, 11:25 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally posted by chorner
Super Mugen buddy old pal,

I started ranting right after seeing what Hellion had to go through with all the bullshit. I know he didn't exactly present his case in the best manner, but back the heck off; you guys are like a pack of wolves.

I figured I would step in and let them know he wasn't completely wrong with his dealings and experience with Mugen support; thats why I started the thread. Moreso out of anger that nobody gave a crap, bashed him to heck without thinking twice that what he said might have any truth.

Shall I start reminding you 'gentlemen' of your lack of intelligence or shall we cut it out right now? If you want to argue highs and lows of a kit, go for it ... but if you bring it into personal crap then go take a hike.

If you don't like me because I'm too bold and blunt for you, too bad .. go cry to mommy, but leave the crap for somebody who cares dude.
I love it. So the whole reason you made that thread was because Hellions thread got locked, and you figured you would start bashing Mugen even though you knew you would take some heat for it. The funny part is that you seemed suprised that you were flamed though. That's great, Maybe if you actually read the whole Hellion thread you would have understood that he is a lying snitch. If you want to defend a snitch then do so, but I sure as heck don't defend or promote such, as you seem to.
OH BTW, what was this statement supposed to mean "but leave the crap for somebody who cares dude." If that statement should be directed toward anyone, it should be you! We the forum really don't like listening to your crap as well as Hellion's, so why don't YOU leave it at home?

P.S. I'm not that serious...most of what I'm saying is just for entertainment purposes only.
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Old 09-04-2003, 11:27 PM   #43
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Hey, lets not start that all over again...

Chorner - I just got to thinking... and I'm not at home, so I can't check, but which metal shielded bearings are you talking about? I beleive mine are all rubber?

-T
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Old 09-04-2003, 11:31 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally posted by chorner
Ahh okay, gotcha

I didn't re-oil them either ... but perhaps I where I was running the grit was fine enough that it worked its way in the bearing at the particular track? It is possible.

I still am adament that they could have done a little better; atleast included some rubber sealed bearings up front as they do on the rear; but again ... the car was designed for purpose built tracks so the metal shielded bearing is actually smoother and offers less resistence .. so with that use in mind, it is probably the better bearing choice. They did however give me and others here problems; and some guys replaced the bearings and also put rubber sealed bearings in place of the metal shielded ones.

And no, I totally agree with you ... I wouldn't go out and buy expensive bearings either when the stock ones should be perfectly fine
OMG, you can always find a way to complain about something can't you...ESPECIALLY when it is a Mugen product. I honestly don't know how you could have a problem with the one-way bulkhead bearings, even if you had to replace it with a rubber shielded bearing big friggin deal man. Your complaints are beyond ridiculous...
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Old 09-04-2003, 11:32 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally posted by TSR6
Hey, lets not start that all over again...

Chorner - I just got to thinking... and I'm not at home, so I can't check, but which metal shielded bearings are you talking about? I beleive mine are all rubber?

-T
Alright I'll stop Mr. Almighty.
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