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Old 09-04-2003, 07:14 PM   #16
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Yeah Yeah Vinyard

I would beg to differ that service doesn't have anything to do with how well a kit is designed. It has something to do with it, but not everything.

Anyways, Manti .. beats me man, is the LD3 any good?

Heres my setup I use ... and I slap on swaybars when needed for higher bite tracks.

NTC3 setup

FRONT
Jaco Nitro Shoes Front 28mm 37 shore
#3 piston (I think it is 3, the one with the smallest hole)
50 wt. Associate oil
Stock caster settings
2 degrees negative camber
1 degree toe out
copper springs
about 6.5mm ride height
stock arm shock mount
one hole closer to the center of the car from stock shock tower shock mounting position
Standard width setup with Associated setup tool as the manual shows (200mm)
no sway bars
About 2mm of droop

REAR
Jaco Nitro Shoes Rear 30mm 37 shore
#2 piston
50 wt. Associate oil
2 degrees negative camber
2 degrees toe in
gold springs
about 7mm ride height
stock arm shock mount
stock shock tower shock mounting position
Standard width setup with Associated setup tool as the manual shows (200 mm)
no sway bars
About 2mm of droop
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Old 09-04-2003, 07:18 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by chorner
Yeah Yeah Vinyard

I would beg to differ that service doesn't have anything to do with how well a kit is designed. It has something to do with it, but not everything.

Anyways, Manti .. beats me man, is the LD3 any good?

Heres my setup I use ... and I slap on swaybars when needed for higher bite tracks.

NTC3 setup

FRONT
Jaco Nitro Shoes Front 28mm 37 shore
#3 piston (I think it is 3, the one with the smallest hole)
50 wt. Associate oil
Stock caster settings
2 degrees negative camber
1 degree toe out
copper springs
about 6.5mm ride height
stock arm shock mount
one hole closer to the center of the car from stock shock tower shock mounting position
Standard width setup with Associated setup tool as the manual shows (200mm)
no sway bars
About 2mm of droop

REAR
Jaco Nitro Shoes Rear 30mm 37 shore
#2 piston
50 wt. Associate oil
2 degrees negative camber
2 degrees toe in
gold springs
about 7mm ride height
stock arm shock mount
stock shock tower shock mounting position
Standard width setup with Associated setup tool as the manual shows (200 mm)
no sway bars
About 2mm of droop
read the LD3 thread and get your answer there, i wish.
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Old 09-04-2003, 07:23 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by SuperMugen
I can agree with you for once

I'm mellowing with age




hey,any ideas how to get a carb out of an RB that is absolutely stuck in its bore?...

It just about budges about 2 mm....cannot twist it around,nor remove it..
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Old 09-04-2003, 07:27 PM   #19
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Btw, the ride height listed there is for a parkinglot track which needs a slightly higher ride height
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Old 09-04-2003, 08:12 PM   #20
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Uuummmmm................nah, you won't get a bias answer here!

GREAT CAR!!
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Old 09-04-2003, 08:23 PM   #21
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chorner - Wierd... I run on dusty, dirty uprepared parking lots.

Manual - What do you consider to be a good manual? I found it easy to follow..

Bearings - I havent blown one, and haven't heard about other people blowing them. This is the first I've heard..

Cleaning - I use a compressor and denatured alchohol after every race weekend. I tear it down occasionally to make sure everything is in good shape and clean. I haven't had a problem with that either. Any plastic & screw will loosen up with repeated use. Personally, I haven't seen anything unusual...
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Old 09-04-2003, 08:25 PM   #22
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i run both NTC3 and MTX3.

i gave up on the NTC3 and only run mtx3.. why? because i'm lazy.. MTX3 ahs nothing to fix or fiddle with. run stock and its competitive .. even make a begineer drive better.


cheers


NTC3? MTX3? i choose MTX3 for the stock setting and zero upgrades. out of the box fun.
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Old 09-04-2003, 08:50 PM   #23
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so fuse, you never have to take your clutch apart and give it a clean, and relube your thrust bearings? What about all the dirt that usually cakes in under the front pully; rec battery and all over the servos and your receiver?

Humm interesting.

TSR6- you run on a dirty unprepared parkinglot and you have no problems with grit in the drive axles; CVD's? Can't usually get all that out with a compressor. Spraying denatured alcohol on your bearings (shielded especially) isn't the greatest idea. Have you checked your bearings yet for smoothness?

Manual- I had absolutely no problems with building the kit; but come on .. you can't tell me the manual isn't lacking. They don't even provide you with an english setting sheet, or 'tips' in the back of the book. Again I had no problems, but everyone -even the RCCarAction reviewers have beefs with the Mugen manuals-

Bearings- I didn't blow any out; but I certainly had to relube them and de-grit them atleast a few times. Especially the large metal shielded front bearings.

If you're as anal as I am about making sure every last cm of the kit is perfectly clean after every weekend, then you would have done a complete strip atleast a handful or more times. I had to do this every weekend with the MTX3; full dissasembly.

NTC3, I had no problems with.

If its going to turn into a NTC3 flame war post then I'm out lol I bought the NTC3 after the MTX3 ; so obviously I wasn't pleased with the MTX3 in one way or another.

I can honestly say, the NTC3 was way less maintenance. FOr some reason, it barely became dirty .. there was really nothing involved to clean it and keep it running at its best. Used an air compressor, some q-tips and wd-40 and cleaning was finished in a mere 20 mins max after checking the F/R drive bearings, and all arms etc. for signs of wear.

The NTC3 is the easiest car ever to take care of. That was my gripe with the MTX3, too much cleaning. I think I cleaned and maintained that car more than I ever drove it!
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Old 09-04-2003, 08:55 PM   #24
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Changing the front belt takes less time than repairing the rear diff or changing gears on the NTC3. The front uprights pop off sometimes on the MTX3 but they aren't usually broken, they'll pop right back on. The NTC3 will give you fits trying to keep diff gears with teeth.

I love my MTX3, it barely needs any maintanence, I bought mine used and have only replaced one bearing.
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Old 09-04-2003, 09:08 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by theRED5
Changing the front belt takes less time than repairing the rear diff or changing gears on the NTC3. The front uprights pop off sometimes on the MTX3 but they aren't usually broken, they'll pop right back on. The NTC3 will give you fits trying to keep diff gears with teeth.

I love my MTX3, it barely needs any maintanence, I bought mine used and have only replaced one bearing.
i replaced all the bearing on my MTX3 already !!! bad bad car !

wait, i replace ALL the stock bearings after 6 months with ceramic nitride bearings. the stock bearings are still as good as new.
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Old 09-04-2003, 09:08 PM   #26
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Ah well my kit came with the white delrin gears and I made sure to shim the pinion up nice and tight with an extra washer. I ran a Paris Top TN12 3 port engine in the NTC3 and never had a problem. Its a fast engine, but by no means is it the fastest out there though.

While we're on the same topic, I ran the same motor in my MTX3 and twice I ripped the teeth right off the front belt with the 1 way.

Not only that ... check out the tolerance between the rear block, and the rear belt at its furthest point towards the rear of the chassis. Not much clearance .. easy to have rocks lodged in there Had that happen a couple times too! This was running on a parkinglot track.

The stock setup in the manual was horrible .. if I can remember correctly, 6mm droop, 5mm ride height, 60wt shock oil front and rear, with F/R swaybars and a one-way .... I don't know what those Japanese guys do, or what tracks they run on to be able to use a setup like that ... but damn was it far off what was needed locally. When I bought the kit, theres was pretty much NO info but the couple setups posted on Mugen Seikis site for setups ... so it was an adventure to say the least.

Needed 30000wt oil in a front diff, 10,000 (stock in rear) 40wt oil all around, stand the shocks up a couple steps, take off or losen up the roll bars, and scrap the included 35 shore tires which absolutely would not hook up on anything around here.

For me, I don't know how many times I can say this ... I far preffered the ease of use and pure speed out of the box with the NTC3 ...

Damn, I should work for the darn company eh? lol ...

You know whats funny though, I WOULD NOT buy the NTC3, I wouldn't even consider it until I finally gave in and grabbed the 'oh so great' NTC3. I bought 2 cars first, before I finally caved and bought the stupid thing.

Just my experience .. but apparently it doesnt count
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Old 09-04-2003, 09:30 PM   #27
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The MTX3 is so bad from the day i bought it till i had to get rid of it.
and buy another one the very next day. I must be having some loose nuts in my brians.
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Old 09-04-2003, 09:48 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by chorner
Just my experience .. but apparently it doesnt count
You lost credibility here a long time ago with your ranting on the Mugen forums. Stick to giving factual answers without going nuts and you may get it back eventually.

Takes years to gain and takes seconds to lose.
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Old 09-04-2003, 09:53 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
You lost credibility here a long time ago with your ranting on the Mugen forums. Stick to giving factual answers without going nuts and you may get it back eventually.

Takes years to gain and takes seconds to lose.
I have to agree with AMGracer on this one.
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Old 09-04-2003, 10:03 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
I'm mellowing with age




hey,any ideas how to get a carb out of an RB that is absolutely stuck in its bore?...

It just about budges about 2 mm....cannot twist it around,nor remove it..
Hmmm...you could get the hulk to get it off for you lol. On a serious note, I can't think of any good way of removing the carb in your situation, sinse I've never had that happen. If all else fails, in my case I would probably remove the crankshaft and heatsink, and try to get the carb in a rubber jawed vice. Then, spray some type of lubricant on the area, and try twisting the engine case while pulling slightly up. Again, that's what I would do, but I'm not sure if you have such a vice. I'm not sure if that made any sense , I need some sleep hehe. Maybe someone else will have a better solution.
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