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Old 08-30-2002, 01:14 AM   #1261
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Just got my self a Nitro TC3 yesterday!! Can't wait to run it! I'm goig to put RB X.12 in it. Any good setup for foam tires on a parking lot?

People keep tellling me that NTC3 is fast! and the car is really easy to work/setup. I have a Serpent Impulse Pro and Tamiya GT10R (chaft drivein also) I hope this car ruh good. But..I hear that NTC3 is really fragile?? is it true?? What parts that usually/commonely broke on this car?
For problem parts, go back to pages 10-15 for that conversation. . . I personally haven't had many breakage problems that went beyond my expectations (hit the wall full speed and SOMETHING's gonna break. . . )

For a great base setup for foams, I am using Barry Baker's foam setup that is listed on CompetitionX - I then adjusted it to fit me. . .

I absolutely love my car - it seemed very well built and very very fast and very very very responsive.
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Old 08-30-2002, 11:56 PM   #1262
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OK..another question.

How are those Vrage tiers that came with the kit? Are they any good? I happen to have a Medium Hard Take off insert so...I use it. Any one know how good are they?
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Old 08-31-2002, 08:11 AM   #1263
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They will stick and last a lot longer by using the molded insert with them. The rubber still wears relatively quick. If you're racing use jaco nitro shoe foam tires, and for everything else use sorex belted rubber. Anyone know where to get the medial pro insertless tires??
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Old 08-31-2002, 11:29 AM   #1264
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I look over on page 10 - 15 but..they say not thing about parts that often broke on this car? Any how...I notice that people nod their fuel tank? why? and how?

also..I start up my car today with my old X.12 but...some how..it run really hot! 235 - 255 degrees? I just can't to get the motor to tune right?? any one know the factory setting for this X.12? Hight, mid and low needles??
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Old 08-31-2002, 12:21 PM   #1265
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Pivot balls are kind of weak. The rear toe links are more than kind of weak; you will need a couple of packs of heavy duty ball cups for this. The suspension arms are surprisingly strong but will break if you hit hard enough. The real weak point of this car is the shock towers. Find the mod for this in earlier pages. If you canít find it I can give details.

The tank mod is to relocate the pressure fitting in the lid. This is also in earlier pages. Again, I can give details if you can't find it.

The engine will run hotter in this car. I don't think 255 is real hot. If you see 280 then you might worry.
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Old 08-31-2002, 01:39 PM   #1266
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Just give me the details please. It's just too much page to go though...LOL...
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Old 08-31-2002, 09:46 PM   #1267
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It seem like I have to cut my fromt wide plastic bumpper? it's just too long sticking out for the body. Do you guys cut it out or just cut out the body?
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Old 09-01-2002, 02:17 PM   #1268
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Took my car out to race at the LHS parking lot. The car run great!! I use foam setup and my old foam tires. Love the car! Handle great!

I have to get my self a new set of foam tires. Where can I get some good foam and great price?? and what is the good size of theres when I true them??

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Old 09-01-2002, 11:39 PM   #1269
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Parts that break - I've never seen a pivot ball bend or break, and I truthfully haven't broken anything that wasn't normal to break (arm, shock tower on a hard diagonal hit, the trans cases can break if you break the arm and tower on a hard hit - I consider these fairly normal. . . )

The only thing I have found as weak were the two rear toe links - I replaced them with Lunsford Off Road links of equivalent size and I put RPM ball cups on all my cars as a matter of course. . .they just are superior, period. Why take the risk with anything else?

As far as the tank mod - I would try the tank AS IS first - see if it works for you. If you have problems, try modding the tank. I tried to mod the tank before trying it stock and actually had problems. I went back to a stock tank and it ran better - I seem to be a rare owner, but I would check first.
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Old 09-02-2002, 12:56 AM   #1270
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Quote:
Originally posted by OB42TC3
Anyone know where to get the medial pro insertless tires??
I have a set never used that I probably never will I could sell you.
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Old 09-02-2002, 01:15 PM   #1271
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What do you guys use to lube the one-way bearing in the two speed? I used some lube from an old HPI one-way, gray stuff, and the thing would not shift and/or stay in second gear and /or acted like the car was in neutral...in other words in was really screwed up. I sprayed it out and it was fine, but, it seems I should use some kind of lube.

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Old 09-02-2002, 01:58 PM   #1272
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I am using Serpent 1-Way Lube
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Old 09-02-2002, 03:33 PM   #1273
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Serpent lube, which is actually a very thin household oillike the sell in grocery stores.
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Old 09-02-2002, 04:24 PM   #1274
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I've got some stuff that I'm using on my 1-ways and balldiffs now that has twice the coefficient of friction as conventional lubes, which should make for considerably less slip from whatever else you would use. Although, I may have just discovered what balldiff lube is in the first place.
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Old 09-03-2002, 10:01 AM   #1275
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Quote:
I have to get my self a new set of foam tires. Where can I get some good foam and great price?? and what is the good size of theres when I true them??
There are a lot of places, but the best I have used are the GRP branded tires, like Ellegi, Race, Action, etc. I also hear the CRC Track Magics are good too. Depending on traction, I start at 2.5 in practice so that I am around 2.4" by race time and 2.38" if traction is "oh my god" level.

My only other recommendation is to run only Front rated tires on the front of this car. They should be the real rubbery feeling foam tires (i.e. Ellegi 42F or Ellegi 45F compound). Traction and wear should be much better than standard TRC or Speedmind foam.

Great prices on foams I hear is in Honk Kong-shipped to the US cheap!! It's a place called RCmodel.com. Domestically I try and buy from my local rep or www.ashfordhobby.com I try and support Robert when I can.
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